Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok 5558 on built sr20 is now run in. Boost was uncontrollable due to a mixture of incorrect wastegate spring and a loose block off bung in the side of wastegate.

Went for a quick roadtest to check boost pressure with 8psi spring and its running 14psi. With a 4th gear foot flat 2500rpm pull was cracking gate at 3500-3700 (14psi)

Will tune as soon as i get some time

Ordering from the US is always better for service IMHO.

I used Real Street Performance on a few occasions and delivery was about a week on all orders. There was one odd time when they couldn't ship an item because it was missing a piece from the MFG (the value of non drop ship vendors). That was rectified fairly quickly by the vendor, the supplier was a little slow though and I ended up taking a payout instead. Item arrived at my door, missing the said gasket, within days of telling them to send as is.

They also sell PT's and pricing is as competitive as it gets.

6466 is now on the manifold, and i am now looking forward to cutting myself to bits doing the pipework lol! Also, just an FYI for you simon, you may have trouble with the outlet on the turbo if mounted on the greddy manifold as mine sits rearward moreso than the greddy items, so pipework may have to face directly downwards and do a 140 degree turn.

6466 is now on the manifold, and i am now looking forward to cutting myself to bits doing the pipework lol! Also, just an FYI for you simon, you may have trouble with the outlet on the turbo if mounted on the greddy manifold as mine sits rearward moreso than the greddy items, so pipework may have to face directly downwards and do a 140 degree turn.

Pics would be handy :)

6466 is now on the manifold, and i am now looking forward to cutting myself to bits doing the pipework lol! Also, just an FYI for you simon, you may have trouble with the outlet on the turbo if mounted on the greddy manifold as mine sits rearward moreso than the greddy items, so pipework may have to face directly downwards and do a 140 degree turn.

Pics of super snail!!!!

Sort your line out?

just waiting on a 12mm metric to -3 adaptor and i will have the oil lines sorted. The pressure pipework is going to be the next interesting part. The thing looks small compared to the 78-33d. It only just fits between the cam covers and the strut tower lol

Hey you guys with precision v-bands, re- the 3" outlet to dump pipe, -the v-band flange welded to the turbo doesnt have a seat for the female flange and the Performance Exhaust at Northmead guy told me I need to get a female flange milled to suit with the clamp and my turbine flange because most of the time the clamps are too wide and the dump has play in the joint . He said it will fit first time but not after if I just get an off the shelf vband flange kit. Is that correct and what you guys doing about that? Where and what size T3 spacers you using, theres some 11mm ones on ebay, mine is a 5558 to go on stock rb25 mani- low mount.

Last question- oil feed and return, any suggestions on fitting sizes and line lengths? Or just let the tuner (unigroup/jem etc) sort that out..

And how much u guys paying for fabrication work, and any recommendations? Pm me if you dont wana post on here, thanks :)

Edited by rondofj

I can preeeety safely say, if its unigroup, let them sort the oil line for you. The 6466 i have was supplied with a machined V-Band flange, looks the goods and mates up 100% primo. I suggest talking to the unigroup guys and leaving it in thier capable hands mate :)

Thanks man, ur lucky you got a flange n clamp supplied as the precision ones are different in size to regular vband flanges and dont seal properly according to the exhaust guy and on the web, can anyone else with this 5558 or other 0.63 vband turbo please tell me where they got their dump flange n clamp from?? And any pics of how the gates welded to the turbine? Thinking if i should point the gate sideways towards the firewall or up upwards like a hat. Turbo will be Low mount on stock rb25 mani

Edited by rondofj

Don't be stupid Paul, there are no compressor maps so they are rubbish.

Lol, not what I said... they are your words. But continue to misquote me to the benefit of being an internet hero.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...