Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why have I been thinking you both had the .82 v band rear?

I think it's partly because of the numbers you put out I must of just assumed...

So what is the go with a .63 5558 compared to a 3076r in terms of compressor and turbine wheels then? Because it seems to put out very similar numbers to a .82 3076r

Well 280-290kw with full boost at 4000rpm isn't too shabby for a JB turbo, though no better than a Kando T67 in spool and a bit concerning if IATs are getting unacceptable. Sounds to me like the Kando would be a better unit for this kind of setup, though the ball bearing unit would no doubt be quite a bit nicer.

True, I don't think anyone is punting a T67 on the stock manifold. The comp housing is too large from what I know.

I have to say though the result from Kurtis is really nice. Spool is mega and so is power, but it needs to be said hes on a high mount and E85. The T67 is probably better off at the level Ron is at (with a cheap highmount) but the 5558 would be better in terms of contingency.

Not to rub anything in to anyone, but we all did say 'buy a hypergear' about a million times lol.

What do you mean by contigency, JD?

Contingency planning in case Ron gets bored of his current power I mean. The 5558 seems better matched to the highmount and E85 slurping setup that he would probably move to from there, based on the result from Kurtis which seemed to be very responsive whilst making its 360kw.

Kurtis car has a very linear power curve on the street, when he took me for a run in it, even on high boost it would hardly brake traction.

It came on very low in the rev range, and pulled smoothly all the way to redline. Not like a laggy single setup or twin setup which has the nothing nothing nothing and than bam it ramps on hard wheel spins all over the road, than bogs down when u kick it up the next gear.

Long story dude...had a friend of a friend mini tub it..car went missing and shit stolen and paint f**ked(it was a new paintjob already)

I had all the dodgyness fixed/ retubbed/ 4link/cage fitted and my mate that painted it the first time...has fixed and repainted it for FREE...(instead of another 5G), so i can't complain..

Not like i havn't seen it..lol, my mate lives on a farm and has his workshop and booth there..haha

..Turbos a Gt45 frame , its a discontinued turbo..you havn't been able to get them for 3-4yrs..hence me taking 2 yrs to find one in the U.S. checking google every week..was a headf**k to buy and get here

Edited by jet_r31

Kurtis car has a very linear power curve on the street, when he took me for a run in it, even on high boost it would hardly brake traction.

It came on very low in the rev range, and pulled smoothly all the way to redline. Not like a laggy single setup or twin setup which has the nothing nothing nothing and than bam it ramps on hard wheel spins all over the road, than bogs down when u kick it up the next gear.

Boost leak has been fixed since then Deano, the bov he installed was poo. Was leaking at 1 psi with the smoke test.

But yes its a nice linear power curve not a lag monster

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Only thing I'd add...is on recommendation from a good diff shop, I've used mineral oil in my diff including the race car for years. The synthetics can be too slippery and glaze the gears
    • 75W90 GL5 is fine. If you aren't sure about the type get one with LSD additive. 
    • Because you're effectively rushing the shift and forcing it to go in - with greater leverage against parts that don't _want_ to go together. Short shift = forcing the gear in harder. Also Redline Heavy Shockproof actively says not to use it in anything with Synchros. Well, it says "not recommended" which is basically as far as anyone will ever say in a product statement to "Do not use" Generally the Redline makes the gearbox feel great... until it fails faster. https://www.redlineoil.com/heavy-shockproof
    • 99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.
    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
×
×
  • Create New...