Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It also runs a percision turbo, think its a 7xxx. 1060awhp I think it made at Downshift Dyno day. Nitto 3.2 stroker in it.

Nitto was on a 7675 and 43-ish PSI when it made 845awhp on the stock bottom end i'm pretty sure.

Nitto was on a 7675 and 43-ish PSI when it made 845awhp on the stock bottom end i'm pretty sure.

Yeah that was on their RB26 motor they had. Think that one died lol. The stroked 3.2 is the new"ish" engine that makes 1060awhp.

Will be interesting to see what times it runs once they fix their issues. 160mph is bloody fast!

Here is the what it looks like to pull off a 6766 and put on a 6466 both tuned to run on 93 oct. at 23.5 psi blue lines are the 6466

Still needs cleaned up a bit but I like the look of it. :yes:

IMG_0866_zps8c498885.jpg

Edited by Weapon X

More details of the type of car? I'd guess from the weak early power delivery and rpm that it's an RB26 with big cams?

Awesome power, surprised there wasn't that big of an improvement in spool between the two - without boost curve overlay it's easy to assume the 6466 just has a little more midrange boost pushed into it

The 64mm compressor seems to not flow a huge amount short of the 6766, I think it makes the 6766 redundant and those who want to go to the next level up in power from the 6466 should be looking at one of the HTA units - especially on an RB.

The lack of spool difference on the dyno is a surprise, though I'd expect that transient response will paint a different picture - unless there is something else unaccounted for in that comparison.

  • Like 1

RB28 with Tomei 270 cams ,Full Race header, Precision 6466 ,head work, Tomei cam gears ,3 5/8 down pipe to 4" , Magna Fuel Pro tuner pump, -10 to the front ,-8 to a sard rail ,2 -6 returns 1000 cc ID's ,2 Precision 38 mm waste gates, EGT per cylinder ,AEM , the normal stuff.

My modification to a Full Race header to keep heat away.

0292.jpg

Edited by Weapon X

I wonder if that is reaching the potential of the turbine wheel or if there just isn't that much between the 64 and 67mm compressors?

What im being told is the 6466 is just starting at this boost gets better as it goes up.

The 64mm compressor seems to not flow a huge amount short of the 6766, I think it makes the 6766 redundant and those who want to go to the next level up in power from the 6466 should be looking at one of the HTA units - especially on an RB.

The lack of spool difference on the dyno is a surprise, though I'd expect that transient response will paint a different picture - unless there is something else unaccounted for in that comparison.

It's 4th gear pulls but I thought it would spool like 300 rpm sooner but they data logs look almost the same just more efficient wheel for that rpm in this powers case I guess

Edited by Weapon X

RB28 with Tomei 270 cams ,Full Race header, Precision 6466 ,head work, Tomei cam gears ,3 5/8 down pipe to 4" , Magna Fuel Pro tuner pump, -10 to the front ,-8 to a sard rail ,2 -6 returns 1000 cc ID's ,2 Precision 38 mm waste gates, EGT per cylinder , the normal stuff.

My modification to a Full Race header to keep heat away.

So it's your car? How does it compare before and after to drive? Its really good power but that lag looks much worse than I would have expected, especially on a stroker! Seems like a very nice setup otherwise, nice work :)

So it's your car? How does it compare before and after to drive? Its really good power but that lag looks much worse than I would have expected, especially on a stroker! Seems like a very nice setup otherwise, nice work :)

Yes this ones mine. It's still setting on the Dyno i'm going to make a few more pulls in the cool morning air and maybe try adjusting the valve timing a bit I'm setting on zero on both now.

I'm going to try to advance the intake a bit then retard the exhaust just to see. We have 3 other customer cars to finish...

Yes lag blows.

Fingers crossed it can improve a little bit, though I'm guessing its not going to be a huge amount better. Would have liked to have seen it all in by mid 4000rpm on a 2.8 - at least when not running a huge amount of boost.


Let us know how you find the 6466 vs the 6766... and on that note, how did the 6766 drive?

yes it will.

small rear housing.

bb cartridge.

.84 with the twin scroll ?

or is this to small and all it will do is generate heat?

motor is a standard 2.6 but will be built once it blows want a 2.8 kit

Interesting to note the SR22VET is superior on all accounts. Its over half a litre smaller.

It goes to show that cylinder head technology pays out a lot more than cubes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...