Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Exact same as mine Noel! Hopefully you get some good results from it

So do I Scott, selection hasnt been easy but I was determined to move away from garret. I'm over their crap.

It will be a while before the car is ready for numbers as i am waiting for some other tasty morsels to arrive but I'm super keen to see what transpires once its all done.

So do I Scott, selection hasnt been easy but I was determined to move away from garret. I'm over their crap.

It will be a while before the car is ready for numbers as i am waiting for some other tasty morsels to arrive but I'm super keen to see what transpires once its all done.

Its definitely a growing combo Noel, Which head are you running with, 25 or 26?

Its definitely a growing combo Noel, Which head are you running with, 25 or 26?

call it what you like scot. it began life as a 25 head but its been converted to solid lifter operation to open up cam selection.

So do I Scott, selection hasnt been easy but I was determined to move away from garret. I'm over their crap.

It will be a while before the car is ready for numbers as i am waiting for some other tasty morsels to arrive but I'm super keen to see what transpires once its all done.

I know an awesome tuner that now loves bolting precisions onto RB's and adding some E85 and some other magic and numbers happen :yes:

Turbo arrived on the weekend. Interesting physical comparison to the garret 37/88.

Front and rear housings are both smaller and the the precision is considerably lighter but the precision out flows the garret by plenty.

Turbo arrived on the weekend. Interesting physical comparison to the garret 37/88.

Front and rear housings are both smaller and the the precision is considerably lighter but the precision out flows the garret by plenty.

Exciting times....

I have some fabrication this week, fitting a 6766 onto a built single cam RB30. Nice looking unit and should flow some air as he is planning to run 35+psi. :)

One thing, these turbo's don't come with rear flanges, and are not a standard 3 inch Vband size, any idea where I can find a Vband for the 4 inch dump at short notice? I really don't want to make one on the lathe, but I will have to if they aren't available locally. Why no flange Precision? :/

post-63525-0-10931800-1381919911_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-81399300-1381919922_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-25962000-1381919938_thumb.jpg

I asked the guy that sold us the turbo, he said 3 weeks from the US, but not to bother as the Precision Vband quality was poor.

I modified a standard ebay 3 inch stainless Vband flange, machining the V smaller and opening up the inside to around 3.25 inch. It works perfectly and seals tight using the aftermarket 3 inch clamp.

As he will be running 35+ psi on a 40mm turbosmart gate, I suggested to use the taller HP cap kit with 35psi spring. There are two kits on their way down from Turbosmart as we speak, the other kit is for me. Let you guys know how well they work. ;)

post-63525-0-35694900-1382010749_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-53012800-1382010786_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-32247700-1382010838_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-90089400-1382011120_thumb.jpg

hello guys,

for the people that have a precision turbo installed or have installed these in project cars. What size oil feed fittings did you use?

I've searched on google and found people saying -3 AN some say -4 AN and some say -4 AN with a restrictor. So i'm confused as to what i should use.

I have a precision 5857 that i bought long ago and i'm now able to install it and want to know which fittings to use so i dont blow the seals.

Thanks in advance for the help.

I looked around for this information for a while too, and finally when throwing out the shipping box for the turbo found that the information was actually in the box.

Here I was thinking Precision shipped turbos with no information like Garrett do.

There is an inner and outer box, and al the necessary information I needed was between the two. Tear you box apart and you'll probably find it too, along with stickers etc.

If there is one thing the Precision vbands could do to improve their setup, it would be to make the vband positively centre on the housing by machining a matching edge on the housing and flange. Such a simple thing to do, and it greatly improves the seal, load carrying capability and guarantees pipework is centre off the back of the housing.

I looked around for this information for a while too, and finally when throwing out the shipping box for the turbo found that the information was actually in the box.

Here I was thinking Precision shipped turbos with no information like Garrett do.

There is an inner and outer box, and al the necessary information I needed was between the two. Tear you box apart and you'll probably find it too, along with stickers etc.

If there is one thing the Precision vbands could do to improve their setup, it would be to make the vband positively centre on the housing by machining a matching edge on the housing and flange. Such a simple thing to do, and it greatly improves the seal, load carrying capability and guarantees pipework is centre off the back of the housing.

Yes have to agree, the V-bands are average and need locating groves

I looked around for this information for a while too, and finally when throwing out the shipping box for the turbo found that the information was actually in the box.

Here I was thinking Precision shipped turbos with no information like Garrett do.

There is an inner and outer box, and al the necessary information I needed was between the two. Tear you box apart and you'll probably find it too, along with stickers etc.

If there is one thing the Precision vbands could do to improve their setup, it would be to make the vband positively centre on the housing by machining a matching edge on the housing and flange. Such a simple thing to do, and it greatly improves the seal, load carrying capability and guarantees pipework is centre off the back of the housing.

Thanks, i will have a look when i get home later tonight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
    • Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels.  Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.
    • He made that comment in my thread - In my case the vents ARE to lower engine heat, when the car is not moving, which is the only scenario I have heat problems with the aircon on, sitting in traffic, on 40C+ days. I can't imagine a scenario that this NC needs any at this point in time. I do not know if it will actually make my cooling when the car is MOVING worse, and I sincerely hope that won't be the case. If it does, well, um, f**k.
    • Nice, thanks. Thats why I was asking, there'd been a fair bit of discussion in the E90 world about vents and where it makes sense to put one (ie, over the filters is not great as that is inline or slightly behind the struts and in higher pressure area). I struggle with air flow and pressures. It sill weirds me out that a radiator in the boot can work. 
    • Neither really Vents, when located in the right place, will lower the engine bay "pressure", as air has a path to escape, thus lowering the engine bay pressure, thus.....improving the efficiency on the coolant stack (read: IC, condenser, radiator) This is why the Blits vented bonnet on my 33 worked so well, the vent was in the front 1/3 of the bonnet, which put it right after the radiator  If the vents are to far back toward the windscreen, which is a high pressure zone, it can actually force air into the engine bay, causing higher pressure and effectively loosing efficiency on the cooling stack, like the fab of raising the rear of the bonnet, which does allow heat to escape, but only when the car isn't moving  There's heaps of cool "fluid dynamics" info out there, but, I'll attach a video of a 'Merican joint that focuses on "Miatas" as I found it when looking into vents for mine, they explain it way better than me  
×
×
  • Create New...