Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

31 minutes ago, ido09s said:

How much power does the car make now?

have you raced it yet and what mph did it run?

I was working from his sig: (I'm used to Dynapacks and the mph vs power figure don't add up so there may be more to the story)

Was 10.61 @ 127.9 mph in 2011 (old tune on 523kw forged 2.6). 2018 power with 2.8 coming soon

 

I don't see the 6466 getting even close to 500kw on 98 octane.  My 8.9:1 cr RB34 with the 6466 managed 385 kw on 98 octane at gate pressure of 12lb. Tuned on a 30+ degree high humidity day.  Alice springs has much drier air.

Turned up to 18 it was able to make more low and mid range but was knock limited at around 400 ish kw.  E85 solved that but the turbo still runs out of puff and maxed at 525kw.

I don't have any real drag times that count as I've only had one clean pass on low boost, that was also a soft start.  11.6 @ 125mph.  

The options are either to have a race fuel tune, low compression/high boost or add a WMI kit.  You have to keep that knock under control, and the only way you'll get past 500kw is to get that cylinder pressure up.

15 minutes ago, Lithium said:

I was working from his sig: (I'm used to Dynapacks and the mph vs power figure don't add up so there may be more to the story)

Was 10.61 @ 127.9 mph in 2011 (old tune on 523kw forged 2.6). 2018 power with 2.8 coming soon

 

they certainly don't.

Actually the R33 does. A car I built went 330rwkw on Unigroups dyno and ran 11.3@125.

That 10.6 he said it ran @127 must have been a reasonable back off and in that case his current setup probably should run into the 9's anyway so doesn't really need changing. Probably just needs a decent tune and a nice ECU controlled boost controller

 

12 minutes ago, GTRNUR said:

I don't see the 6466 getting even close to 500kw on 98 octane.  My 8.9:1 cr RB34 with the 6466 managed 385 kw on 98 octane at gate pressure of 12lb. Tuned on a 30+ degree high humidity day.  Alice springs has much drier air.

Turned up to 18 it was able to make more low and mid range but was knock limited at around 400 ish kw.  E85 solved that but the turbo still runs out of puff and maxed at 525kw.

I don't have any real drag times that count as I've only had one clean pass on low boost, that was also a soft start.  11.6 @ 125mph.  

The options are either to have a race fuel tune, low compression/high boost or add a WMI kit.  You have to keep that knock under control, and the only way you'll get past 500kw is to get that cylinder pressure up.

so are you saying your car made 525rwkw but only ran 125mph?

 

3 minutes ago, fatz said:

500kw is more like 145mph? 

should be about that yeah. My S14 makes 500rwkw on Unigroups dyno and runs 138mph all day every day.

55 minutes ago, ido09s said:

so are you saying your car made 525rwkw but only ran 125mph? 

 

Low boost, 18lb so I guess around 400kw.  Not the 30lb 500+kw tune. 

I only mentioned it in case that was going to be someone's next question.  I suspect with my crappy driving and new tyres I could probably do a low 10.  Also I have a 3 hr return drive to the nearest track, and it wasn't trailered.  I didn't want to risk breaking a diff or something.

The point I was trying to get across is that 98 octane will knock limit you to around 400kw even on a very stout engine build.

Edited by GTRNUR
7 hours ago, ido09s said:

they certainly don't.

Actually the R33 does. A car I built went 330rwkw on Unigroups dyno and ran 11.3@125.

That 10.6 he said it ran @127 must have been a reasonable back off and in that case his current setup probably should run into the 9's anyway so doesn't really need changing. Probably just needs a decent tune and a nice ECU controlled boost controller

 

so are you saying your car made 525rwkw but only ran 125mph?

 

should be about that yeah. My S14 makes 500rwkw on Unigroups dyno and runs 138mph all day every day.

Yes my 33 GTR is dynoing 310-330kw and good for mid 11s at around 118-120mph, with HKS gt-ss turbos at 22psi and 3rd in the OS Giken box. Maybe if I could snatch 4th I'd get a tad more mph. The 32 well.....

I run the 10 on the original setup by Jakes performance tuned by Tilbrook auto with 125 - 130mph. The dyno I was supplied with on car purchase in 2008 was 500+kw on the Tilbrook dyno dynamics. I agree no way it could have been, hence I started a thread back then in 2009 which I have just revived to continue the cars development.

My 32 power at the real confirmed 500kw + level by Willall racing was never run back at the drags to see the real potential of car as I've had multiple failures since then.

For more info on car thread is in the drift and drag section.

I would love to continue the advice and feedback regarding this, but would probably rather do it in that thread as this is the Precision turbo thread and don't want to have my cars specifics filling up a specialised thread on these turbos.

Go have a read at my hell that has been my R32 GTR.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all, 

Back again and had the car on the dyno on Monday with the only change being the 600x300x100 cooling pro intercooler. 

Compressor seemed to run out of puff at 26psi and tapered off to 25psi by the end of the run which was a bit disappointing. Saw a bit of wheel spin on this run as you can see at the top. 

For a $260 intercooler it made a pretty good difference.  

Car is pretty incredible to drive, it has awesome low end torque and it quite responsive. Keen to test it out at roll racing in a couple of weeks. 

 

-Ryan

received_291482618159487.jpeg

56 minutes ago, r33ryan said:

Hi all, 

Back again and had the car on the dyno on Monday with the only change being the 600x300x100 cooling pro intercooler. 

Compressor seemed to run out of puff at 26psi and tapered off to 25psi by the end of the run which was a bit disappointing. Saw a bit of wheel spin on this run as you can see at the top. 

For a $260 intercooler it made a pretty good difference.  

Car is pretty incredible to drive, it has awesome low end torque and it quite responsive. Keen to test it out at roll racing in a couple of weeks. 

 

-Ryan

received_291482618159487.jpeg

I'd doubt the compressor is anywhere close to being out, mine is rated at less and puts out 200hp more. Just up the duty cycle top end.

I'd also comment that the graph looks extremely lazy. 85kw at 4000rpm is horrible. There is something not right there, does it still retain VCT?

Edited by SimonR32

As Simon said, something doesn't look, nor sound, right. Though I have never used a turbo the size of yours, most PT's love it at the high side of 25psi and just keep making boost. I am at 32psi and no sign of the 6766 stopping yet

As an example, my 6766 with a 1.0 rear end at 4500 is making an easy 19psi and 420rwkw. I dare say yours should be making more than 11psi and 110rwkwk

2 hours ago, r33ryan said:

Compressor seemed to run out of puff at 26psi and tapered off to 25psi by the end of the run which was a bit disappointing. Saw a bit of wheel spin on this run as you can see at the top. 

 

What was the pre-intercooler intake temps?  Presumably that was taken if "compressor seemed to run out of puff" was the official diagnosis.

Do you know what boost control solenoid duty cycle is?  This looks almost like what I'd expect if the boost control setup was nearing the end of it's ability, like if you were running too soft a spring for the setup - not that the turbo is maxed out.  That wavey power/boost curve situation is much more of a "boost control issue" than a "maxed out compressor" type behaviour.

Edited by Lithium
3 hours ago, SimonR32 said:

There is something not right there, does it still retain VCT?

Still retains vct yes. 

I'm just going off what I was told, I'm not a mechanic and only have a pretty basic knowledge. I'm interested to hear what you all have to say and if there are a few things I can check. 

I've seen your build Simon so I did find it weird for the compressor to have run out. Obviously different builds here but still for it to be that different. I was hoping to screw a bit more into it. 

 

2 hours ago, Lithium said:

What was the pre-intercooler intake temps?  Presumably that was taken if "compressor seemed to run out of puff" was the official diagnosis.

Do you know what boost control solenoid duty cycle is?  This looks almost like what I'd expect if the boost control setup was nearing the end of it's ability, like if you were running too soft a spring for the setup - not that the turbo is maxed out.  That wavey power/boost curve situation is much more of a "boost control issue" than a "maxed out compressor" type behaviour.

I'm not entirely sure on the pre-intercooler temps sorry, just what I was told. 

I didn't before you mentioned it, just had a look. Unsure how mine is set. Twin 45mm hypergates with 14psi springs. Pretty sure they are 7psi inner and 7psi outter? 

 

I almost asked if you are running a 1bar spring. In terms of cost versus reward that would be the first area I would be looking at - especially easy to confirm by checking wastegate duty cycle

  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/16/2018 at 8:02 PM, Lithium said:

Nice - any more specifics?  Been quite curious about the SX-E turbos and a few RBs seem to have them but no dyno sheets or hardly even any numbers, yours included now haha

Here is a pic of my dyno sheet ( Borg warner S366 T4 .88 AR) . S1 RB25, Kelford 270 cams, supertech valve train (stock sized), CP pistons (stock bore and compression), Manley rods, balanced crank/ block. Otaku manifold, ID2000s . Revs to 8K on E85 @30 lbs. 

As you can see the turbo is pretty laggy to come on. I'm actually in the market for a PT 6466 or 6870. I'm torn between the 2. looking for some advice. The goal is to move the power band to 4000-4500 while still maintaining the current power.

Loca Dyno - 680.jpg

Edited by feedmyfast
added more specifics

Wow that's laggy all right. OK on the track with a close ratio gearbox but pretty useless otherwise. I would like some power from 3000 on...peaking at 4 - 5000 would be fine.

What kind of ecu do you have and does it control boost as well?

1 hour ago, feedmyfast said:

Here is a pic of my dyno sheet ( Borg warner S366 T4 .88 AR) . S1 RB25, Kelford 270 cams, supertech valve train (stock sized), CP pistons (stock bore and compression), Manley rods, balanced crank/ block. Otaku manifold, ID2000s . Revs to 8K on E85 @30 lbs. 

As you can see the turbo is pretty laggy to come on. I'm actually in the market for a PT 6466 or 6870. I'm torn between the 2. ooking for some advice. The goal is to move the power band to 4000-4500 while still maintaining the current power.

 

Ouch, that's nasty - not overly surprised though, the Airwerks S366s are pretty lazy for their flow at the best of times - I've never understood why they have been so popular when a lot of people using them actually could do fine with the 60 or 62mm options.  Going with the open T4 .88a/r housing and putting it on an RB25 is definitely not setting up a recipe for response.  

Will you be staying with the T4 open housing?  I'm assuming that's why you are looking at Precision... if so, I'd look at the Gen2 PT5862 or at the absolute max a PT6062.  I'm not sure why you'd go for a 6466 or a 6870 when you are "only" looking at <700whp Dynojet.... unless you are looking for headroom to make >800whp (6466) or >900whp (6870)?   

A Gen2 5862 will make well into the 600whp range and be a different car to drive.  If you would consider changing your exhaust setup to T4 Divided then your options for good power and response get substantially better, too.

  • Like 1
57 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Wow that's laggy all right. OK on the track with a close ratio gearbox but pretty useless otherwise. I would like some power from 3000 on...peaking at 4 - 5000 would be fine.

What kind of ecu do you have and does it control boost as well?

I'm running a AEM V2 ECU and it controls the boost 

10 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Ouch, that's nasty - not overly surprised though, the Airwerks S366s are pretty lazy for their flow at the best of times - I've never understood why they have been so popular when a lot of people using them actually could do fine with the 60 or 62mm options.  Going with the open T4 .88a/r housing and putting it on an RB25 is definitely not setting up a recipe for response.  

Will you be staying with the T4 open housing?  I'm assuming that's why you are looking at Precision... if so, I'd look at the Gen2 PT5862 or at the absolute max a PT6062.  I'm not sure why you'd go for a 6466 or a 6870 when you are "only" looking at <700whp Dynojet.... unless you are looking for headroom to make >800whp (6466) or >900whp (6870)?   

A Gen2 5862 will make well into the 600whp range and be a different car to drive.  If you would consider changing your exhaust setup to T4 Divided then your options for good power and response get substantially better, too.

I went with this turbo at first because it is reliable and cheap for the power i wanted. The car was originally a weekend street car and didnt mind the laggy and very lazy turbo. Recently i have been doing more drag / roll racing events so that very late power band isnt working for me anymore. i literally have to chase every race, its a great top end car but down low i might as well be N/A.

Yes, intend on staying with the T4 open housing so I won't have to spend too much money for an already expensive upgrade. I am definitely looking for some headroom for other mods (stroker / RB30) in the future. Looking for a turbo i can run now and not have to toss aside when i do the next setup. 

On ‎11‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 3:42 PM, r33ryan said:

Pulled the duty cycle up today. What do you guys reckon? 

received_363659700874815.jpeg

Time for a larger spring for the gate OR run a 4 port solenoid (may have missed it, but I'm assuming you're running a 3 port)

32 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Time for a larger spring for the gate OR run a 4 port solenoid (may have missed it, but I'm assuming you're running a 3 port)

Yeah going to upgrade to 21psi springs in twin 45s. 

Ill also change the gate pressure source from the turbo to the intake manifold before I put it back on the dyno.  

Found the pipe in the white circle that comes off the idle control block that wasnt blocked off either. Blocking pipe must have blown off so it would be leaking boost out of it. 

 

Fixed it up now so  once ive put the springs in and finalized a few other bits and pieces I'll gey it back on the dyno. 

received_2264486480273581.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...