Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 12/19/2018 at 11:50 AM, feedmyfast said:

Yes, intend on staying with the T4 open housing so I won't have to spend too much money for an already expensive upgrade. I am definitely looking for some headroom for other mods (stroker / RB30) in the future. Looking for a turbo i can run now and not have to toss aside when i do the next setup. 

OK, sortof makes sense.  When you do the stroker/RB30 upgrade is that for more power or more drivability?   Realistically a turbo which is "all in" in the low 4000rpm range on an RB25 isn't necessarily going to be that large a turbo on an RB30... or a turbo which justifies a solid RB30 build is going to bit a bit lazy on an RB25 unless you are actually targetting more of a punchy road car setup.

You could get a 6466 with a smaller T4 hotside for the RB25, and order a larger one for when you go with the RB30... just to try and take the edge off.   A 6466 would likely be "all in" late 4000rpm range on an RB25

 

18 minutes ago, SimonR32 said:

5558 on a RB25 with 20psi on 98

Going to be fairly rapid in a 240Z, especially once some E85 is used

 

That's a pretty nice long powerband - is this a Gen2 one?  What hotside?   It's fairly lazy for a 55mm turbo, though not so lazy for the power level

Edited by Lithium
19 hours ago, Lithium said:

OK, sortof makes sense.  When you do the stroker/RB30 upgrade is that for more power or more drivability?   Realistically a turbo which is "all in" in the low 4000rpm range on an RB25 isn't necessarily going to be that large a turbo on an RB30... or a turbo which justifies a solid RB30 build is going to bit a bit lazy on an RB25 unless you are actually targetting more of a punchy road car setup.

You could get a 6466 with a smaller T4 hotside for the RB25, and order a larger one for when you go with the RB30... just to try and take the edge off.   A 6466 would likely be "all in" late 4000rpm range on an RB25

 

The stroker / RB30 would be just to make more reliable power.

thanks for the suggestion! the 6466 with different turbine housings sounds like it would be the most flexible approach. 

reliability comes from the engine builder and the parts used to put the engine together mate. I wouldn't say an RB30 is going to be more reliable than an RB25/26.

My engine has been in the car for 15 years now. Its made anything between 350rwkw to the now 500rwkw. Its a standard RB26 block with stock crank. About the only mods it has are some GReddy rod and pistons and some head studs. Standard crank bolts are in it even and we used to rev it to 9200rpm. Its nothing special but it was put together properly and that's why it has stayed together.

14 hours ago, ido09s said:

reliability comes from the engine builder and the parts used to put the engine together mate. I wouldn't say an RB30 is going to be more reliable than an RB25/26.

My engine has been in the car for 15 years now. Its made anything between 350rwkw to the now 500rwkw. Its a standard RB26 block with stock crank. About the only mods it has are some GReddy rod and pistons and some head studs. Standard crank bolts are in it even and we used to rev it to 9200rpm. Its nothing special but it was put together properly and that's why it has stayed together.

Reliable in the sense of less stress on the motor. A RB30 will make the same amount of power with less boost just to the increased displacement (in theory). 

  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, feedmyfast said:

I purchased a 6466. should be installing it within the next few weeks. I'll post the new dyno graphs when I tune the car

Well done!  Presuming CEA?  Split pulse or single scroll?

Post up a couple of pics of the installation

13 minutes ago, Dale FZ1 said:

Well done!  Presuming CEA?  Split pulse or single scroll?

Post up a couple of pics of the installation

Yes that is right. CEA GEN2 6266. Single scroll T4.

Will do! i can't wait to install it. just need a few things beforehand, (5 BAR map sensor, fittings ,etc). I was told the 6466 really wakes up around 25 lbs. I only have a 3.5Bar sensor,  so I would run out sensor range fairly quickly.

  • Like 1
On 1/3/2019 at 5:48 AM, feedmyfast said:

Happy New Years All! Quick update I purchased a 6466. should be installing it within the next few weeks. I'll post the new dyno graphs when I tune the car

Nice, what hotside did you choose?

  • 3 months later...
3 hours ago, Lithium said:

First time I've ever seen a 6870 come on earlier than a 9180, what other changes were made?

Direct back to back change... Same boost, 30psi

6870 made even more power with extra boost while the 9180 was all out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...