Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 12/19/2018 at 11:50 AM, feedmyfast said:

Yes, intend on staying with the T4 open housing so I won't have to spend too much money for an already expensive upgrade. I am definitely looking for some headroom for other mods (stroker / RB30) in the future. Looking for a turbo i can run now and not have to toss aside when i do the next setup. 

OK, sortof makes sense.  When you do the stroker/RB30 upgrade is that for more power or more drivability?   Realistically a turbo which is "all in" in the low 4000rpm range on an RB25 isn't necessarily going to be that large a turbo on an RB30... or a turbo which justifies a solid RB30 build is going to bit a bit lazy on an RB25 unless you are actually targetting more of a punchy road car setup.

You could get a 6466 with a smaller T4 hotside for the RB25, and order a larger one for when you go with the RB30... just to try and take the edge off.   A 6466 would likely be "all in" late 4000rpm range on an RB25

 

18 minutes ago, SimonR32 said:

5558 on a RB25 with 20psi on 98

Going to be fairly rapid in a 240Z, especially once some E85 is used

 

That's a pretty nice long powerband - is this a Gen2 one?  What hotside?   It's fairly lazy for a 55mm turbo, though not so lazy for the power level

Edited by Lithium
19 hours ago, Lithium said:

OK, sortof makes sense.  When you do the stroker/RB30 upgrade is that for more power or more drivability?   Realistically a turbo which is "all in" in the low 4000rpm range on an RB25 isn't necessarily going to be that large a turbo on an RB30... or a turbo which justifies a solid RB30 build is going to bit a bit lazy on an RB25 unless you are actually targetting more of a punchy road car setup.

You could get a 6466 with a smaller T4 hotside for the RB25, and order a larger one for when you go with the RB30... just to try and take the edge off.   A 6466 would likely be "all in" late 4000rpm range on an RB25

 

The stroker / RB30 would be just to make more reliable power.

thanks for the suggestion! the 6466 with different turbine housings sounds like it would be the most flexible approach. 

reliability comes from the engine builder and the parts used to put the engine together mate. I wouldn't say an RB30 is going to be more reliable than an RB25/26.

My engine has been in the car for 15 years now. Its made anything between 350rwkw to the now 500rwkw. Its a standard RB26 block with stock crank. About the only mods it has are some GReddy rod and pistons and some head studs. Standard crank bolts are in it even and we used to rev it to 9200rpm. Its nothing special but it was put together properly and that's why it has stayed together.

14 hours ago, ido09s said:

reliability comes from the engine builder and the parts used to put the engine together mate. I wouldn't say an RB30 is going to be more reliable than an RB25/26.

My engine has been in the car for 15 years now. Its made anything between 350rwkw to the now 500rwkw. Its a standard RB26 block with stock crank. About the only mods it has are some GReddy rod and pistons and some head studs. Standard crank bolts are in it even and we used to rev it to 9200rpm. Its nothing special but it was put together properly and that's why it has stayed together.

Reliable in the sense of less stress on the motor. A RB30 will make the same amount of power with less boost just to the increased displacement (in theory). 

  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, feedmyfast said:

I purchased a 6466. should be installing it within the next few weeks. I'll post the new dyno graphs when I tune the car

Well done!  Presuming CEA?  Split pulse or single scroll?

Post up a couple of pics of the installation

13 minutes ago, Dale FZ1 said:

Well done!  Presuming CEA?  Split pulse or single scroll?

Post up a couple of pics of the installation

Yes that is right. CEA GEN2 6266. Single scroll T4.

Will do! i can't wait to install it. just need a few things beforehand, (5 BAR map sensor, fittings ,etc). I was told the 6466 really wakes up around 25 lbs. I only have a 3.5Bar sensor,  so I would run out sensor range fairly quickly.

  • Like 1
On 1/3/2019 at 5:48 AM, feedmyfast said:

Happy New Years All! Quick update I purchased a 6466. should be installing it within the next few weeks. I'll post the new dyno graphs when I tune the car

Nice, what hotside did you choose?

  • 3 months later...
3 hours ago, Lithium said:

First time I've ever seen a 6870 come on earlier than a 9180, what other changes were made?

Direct back to back change... Same boost, 30psi

6870 made even more power with extra boost while the 9180 was all out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...