Jump to content
SAU Community

Precision Billet Turbos

R32GTR/Iceland
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

SimonR32
SimonR32

The 6262 sillyness is never ending... New cams just got the most power and torque it's ever made

SimonR32
SimonR32
Mick_o
Mick_o

Dale is 100% correct its a well proven fact that smaller cams in RB's aid in response. Even going from a stock cam to a type b pon cam will cost you response. Been many track guys that have thrown the

Posted Images

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

It isn't really an issue if you like pulling the parts back off to weld them but I bet its a job and a half to fit. I just did a split 6boob install and it was a pita, especially the gate position. I fabbed it all in the car though.

Where are u fitting the flexi join?

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

The manifold wont crack, even without flex joints. Though it is definitely a good thing to have them. I usually put the flex pipe in after the v band just after the dump pipe. Though 4" flex pipes from truck shops cost about $120!

We are running a split pulse 6boost too which I've been slowly building the exhaust for. The wastegate positioning is a little difficult to work around thats for sure Scotty!

Dump pipe so far.

post-12828-0-74960000-1340572394_thumb.jpg

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Thats where i was thinking if it was going anywhere it will be just before the cat.

I can see what Scotty is saying but i have never seen it personally.

R33_racer- Damn u guys and ur pretty stainless. Must weigh a bit though

This is another reason i dont use stainless. this is the dump i made for Kurtis's R34 Kurtis got busy wrapping it up. Has done the manifolds also 83c2ac96.jpg

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Stainless and mild steel is much the same. You wouldnt really notice the difference. Our old dump pipe after 3-4 years service and several modications was all rusted out on the inside. Was paper thin in several spots!

The new stainless one should last considerably longer!

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Jez, do you use mild because you don't want to wrap stainless? Another misconception imo. Stainless won't go brittle and crack under heatwrap from what I have seen, mind you I don't wrap stainless manifolds if I can help it. Eventually any system will crack given enough heat cycles and vibration I just try to minimise it as I don't want my customers ever coming back.

Even painted the mild will rust away in no time under wrap. I guess if you only plan to use the car for a few years... That's the difference, I want my systems to last forever.

The tubes weigh around the same, not sure where you were going with that mate. While I still appreciate a nice mild system I know the exhaust acids will turn it to oxide within 5 years unless you ceramic coat it inside and out, which negates the cost savings and adds weight. I wish Ti and Inconel were cheaper but the only cost effective answer is 304 for the front and perhaps alloy for the rear sections if you were keen on weight savings.

The manifold wont crack, even without flex joints. Though it is definitely a good thing to have them. I usually put the flex pipe in after the v band just after the dump pipe. Though 4" flex pipes from truck shops cost about $120!

We are running a split pulse 6boost too which I've been slowly building the exhaust for. The wastegate positioning is a little difficult to work around thats for sure Scotty!

Dump pipe so far.

post-12828-0-74960000-1340572394_thumb.jpg

Looks the goods mate, What turbo is that setup for? Kyle obviously doesn't fit these manifolds or he wouldn't have placed the wastegate directly under the turbo, making it nearly impossible to get to. If only the pipes were a little longer...

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Haha oh u noticed lol. No wars. Im not a pro fabber like these boys. My good old mig can weld but i have to hide them lol

The origins of fab warz stretch back as far as Mick's GTX3071 thread, when Mick went hell for leather and decided to fab his own cooler pipes.

The outcome (of the pipes) was fantastic, and the war has been raging ever since.

This is Fab Warz.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Lol, people have their own ideas on what they want to do Scott, we need to share this kind of information so they can make a well thought out design that will work. How is that a Fab Warz?

Haha Jase.

Scotty it has nothing to do with weight or anything. Just pure ease and low cost.

I would only save $50 - $100 on a full system doing mild though. Easier how? You need to check out Midways prices on their quality mandrels. ;)

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Sweet jesus that's a lot of power!

How much is "more" boost? haha

About this many -

http://www.justenginemanagement.com/index.php/dyno-diary

Not that i was stalking :ph34r:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Por qué no los dos? Body colour red with black stripes down centre, onto bonnet and bootlid.
    • SteveL
      R32 GTR Bonnet Hinge Bolts

      By SteveL · Posted

      From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm).    Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer.   20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get.   Make sure they're zinc plated.    If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971.  Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price.   New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama).    Same thread but 16mm long.
    • GTSBoy
      ER34 RB25DE Auto - Would a flush ever fix an "A/T" light?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, if that filter was impeding fluid flow, then it could have similar effects to faulty solenoids. The TCU will register a fault when it does something (ie, changes the state of a solenoid) and does not detect the required result. If there are other causes that can make the same lack of result, then they will be indistinguishable to the expected cause for which the TCU has a code.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 RB20DE NEO coilpack?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yellowjackets, red ones, blue ones (other than Splitfire) have all been demonstrated to be unreliable on turbo engines. That unreliability can be anything from outright failure (ie, 4 out of a set of 6 working out of the box) to just not being strong enough for the task, on a boosted engine. Not enough of us care about NA engines to know whether that unreliability is an issue for the undemanding needs of an NA RB20. I should think though that the DIS-008 should fit the 20. There's not really any reason for the head/coil mounting area to be any different on those 2 Neos. I wouldn't be buying Splitfires, or any other old tech coilpack, for a car in this day and age though. I would buy modern pencil coils and do what needs to be done to adapt them to the loom. That's relatively trivial these days, with numerous kits for fitting R35, or Audi, or Yaris/Corolla coils.
    • Ozdavroz
      So i brought a boat...

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Keen to see how much work is needed to get an abandoned Skyline going. My R32 has been sitting idle for three years or so but finally got some time to get it going again. (Also lurking SAU and trying to hit 10 posts so I can start my own intro thread with pics)
×
×
  • Create New...