Jump to content
SAU Community

Precision Billet Turbos

R32GTR/Iceland
 Share

Recommended Posts

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Yeah Twin scroll. It feels fairly towy atm with it just running off the gate at 14psi. Will be very interesting to see how it compares with the old HKS T04Z. As for the tune just have to wait & see when mark has the time to come down. Hopefully within the next few weeks.

Pulled 604Hp at all 4 with T04Z on 24 psi So yeah Cant wait to see, Noticed the precision turbo is very Quiet which is a good thing I reckons.

Quiete??? Ours spool like a jet fighter. Love it

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

SimonR32
SimonR32

The 6262 sillyness is never ending... New cams just got the most power and torque it's ever made

SimonR32
SimonR32
Mick_o
Mick_o

Dale is 100% correct its a well proven fact that smaller cams in RB's aid in response. Even going from a stock cam to a type b pon cam will cost you response. Been many track guys that have thrown the

Posted Images

Dajae Community Regular

Dajae

Posted
Posted

Jet engine whistle. Makes me bar up.

Jez, did you get to asking about TS for the smaller frame turbo choices? Im looking around for some choices, considering BW wont be dishing out an EFR 7064 - 7670 anytime soon >.<

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

Is the PT6766 any laggier than the T04Z? Surprised its not very rowdy, the GT3794R-HTAs (basically the PT6766s closest match) seem to scream.

Please post results up when its done, will be very interesting :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ðemons Contributor

Ðemons

Posted
Posted

Quiete??? Ours spool like a jet fighter. Love it

Yeah ya right it has that jet sound about it. But at 14 psi isnt much for that turbo at 35psi well me thinks it might suck a jet out of the sky or kill afew miner birds. lol. Should sound awesome

Will post up results once tuned Looking foward to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

what happened?

Nothing major man, just a few little dramas like collapsed coilovers, BOV blown clean off the pipe and a gut full of stale E85 which makes it no go at the moment..... Other than that its awesome!

Did u get ur ethanol sensor working again? We have already had 1 die. Lucky i had a spare fir my car. Warranty phone call will be made today for a replacement

Will let you know once its got decent fuel etc again.... should be OK but i did get an E100 reading and also an Esen a few times....

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mitcho_7 Mentor

Mitcho_7

Posted
Posted

Nothing major man, just a few little dramas like collapsed coilovers, BOV blown clean off the pipe and a gut full of stale E85 which makes it no go at the moment..... Other than that its awesome!

Sounds rough, howd you manage to blow the bov off the pipe? Do you mean the return pipe blew off, or that it actually blew the welded flange for the bov on your cooler piping?

If its the latter, wow...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Stale e85???

Yep, my fault man! Storage issue!

Sounds rough, howd you manage to blow the bov off the pipe? Do you mean the return pipe blew off, or that it actually blew the welded flange for the bov on your cooler piping?

If its the latter, wow...

Off the pipe as the idiot up here that did my pipiing didnt put a bead for the clamp to grab on and also overtightened the clamp, ive probably had a slight leak the whole time... Temporary fix -

post-47580-0-79755400-1342582785_thumb.jpg

:laugh:

You've had a eth content sensor fail? What type, and what were the symptoms?

I dont think mine is failing, however it did do the same thing as Kurtis's so ill be keeping an eye on it.... Got an E100 reading randomly and also Esen (i think thats what it said anyway)....

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

watch 600hp turn into 600kw like Lith said, LOL.

it is tuned for what your doing atm yeah? not boosting it on the T04Z tune are you?

when you say toey do you mean its pretty lively under the foot? responsive for the amount of power it will make?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ðemons Contributor

Ðemons

Posted
Posted

Yeah have driven it home off the gate have boosted it on to4z tune Mark said it would be okay, Until we do the full tune. Felt lively with just 1bar under foot quick spirt in second had good pull. But its in the shed awaiting for the tune day, 600kw Ya reckons guys I wont know what hit me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ðemons Contributor

Ðemons

Posted
Posted

Hope

Just hope the rest of your setup is up to the task LOL!

Hope so should be okay have ppg dog set in gearbox. 2000cc injectors to go in. Only thing that is a bit worrying is the spark & the twin walbros in the tank been fine thus far. But it pays to have vital gauges in the cockpit fuel pressure & oil pressure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted

I dont understand why some turbo cars eg R34GTT came with the stupid useless battery voltage gauge and the boost gauge which isnt accurate( and generally replaced when modded anyway). The most important gauge, the AFR gauge could have taken their place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted (edited)

I dont understand why some turbo cars eg R34GTT came with the stupid useless battery voltage gauge and the boost gauge which isnt accurate( and generally replaced when modded anyway). The most important gauge, the AFR gauge could have taken their place.

There's a lot of things you don't seem to understand.

These weren't intended as fkn race cars dude. Why would your average driver need an AFR gauge? Battery voltage is much more useful. As for the boost gauge being inaccurate, they are almost 15 years old now, of course they are inaccurate. AFR is far from the most important gauge, in fact I'd say they are completely unnecessary unless you are planning on doing your own tuning or tracking the car.

Edited by Hanaldo
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

And how is the battery voltage useful, explain? As most cars, like the vast majority dont come with one.

It's not overly useful, it's just more useful than an AFR gauge to most people.

Gauges are really just about learning the 'norm' for your car. So if you're like me and you constantly watch your gauges, you know what is normal and what is not. If your alternator starts to die or your volt load changes, you'll notice it and possibly avoid getting stuck. Can also be useful for determining the load on your alternator, ie. watch how far it dips when you turn your headlights/radio/horn/etc. on. Or watching to make sure your car is charging at the correct voltage, not over or under charging.

All of this generally means a hell of a lot more and is more subject to change than the air:fuel ratio of a car. The way Nissan intended the car to function, the AFR should never really change a lot, so it's useless to monitor it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Yeah have driven it home off the gate have boosted it on to4z tune Mark said it would be okay, Until we do the full tune. Felt lively with just 1bar under foot quick spirt in second had good pull. But its in the shed awaiting for the tune day, 600kw Ya reckons guys I wont know what hit me.

You will love it! Keep some undies in the glove box ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Leigh_Mack
      Hello, Newbie, anyone know my 32's history?

      By Leigh_Mack · Posted

      Hello,new to the group, I bought a R32 from auction recently, wondering if anyone knows the cars history, seems to have the usual go fast bits on it, plan is to do an engine swap- add 2 extra cylinders and 1 extra turbo. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/i4rjmlzubjbwjtguh6f4s/IMG20241011140744.jpg?rlkey=q0lumm251377vknbqktfwrycq&st=7scvwx4e&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ro24qmwzlczzlfsr4y05x/Screenshot_2024-10-10-10-49-23-90_9a2f5bb2149dae94cd1e190effc09b33.jpg?rlkey=oyguh26ttshlf04ccp48odf4v&st=xloae97b&dl=0   New to forums and posting pics, if links don't work, take it easy on me, 42yrs old and I tune carburettors!!  
    • sonicii
      2020 Nissan Skyline 400R V37/Infiniti Q50 RS insurance in NSW

      By sonicii · Posted

      As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • araiko
      Importing from the US into W.A - 15 yo old car

      By araiko · Posted

      loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • DraftySquash
      Question about R34 GTT A/T Solenoids

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
×
×
  • Create New...