Jump to content
SAU Community

What Are Dr30 Hot Plates Really Worth?


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

jeeze,

such prices for taillights.

I remember seeing a shitload being advertised a few years back, for between $100 and $150 a pair, where did they all go?

Still have the 2 pairs I brought of ghostrider 4? years ago

Link to comment
Share on other sites

jeeze,

such prices for taillights.

I remember seeing a shitload being advertised a few years back, for between $100 and $150 a pair, where did they all go?

Still have the 2 pairs I brought of ghostrider 4? years ago

You still got the bootlid?

See PM sent yesterday

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DR30 hotplates are as rare as rocking horse whit. R31 lights are still available new, so there is nothing special about them. I have six pair in stock.

I have a three pair of DR30 hotplates, but wouldn't ever sell them, and that is the way most people with a set of these lights, and a DR30 feel about having tjhe lights.

DR30 hotplates are worth whatever anyone is prepared to pay for them. In context, V36 rear lights are over $400.00 list per side. If you can pick up good condition DR30 light for $200.00 per side, it's still a very cheap option.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DR30 hotplates are as rare as rocking horse whit. R31 lights are still available new, so there is nothing special about them. I have six pair in stock.

I have a three pair of DR30 hotplates, but wouldn't ever sell them, and that is the way most people with a set of these lights, and a DR30 feel about having tjhe lights.

DR30 hotplates are worth whatever anyone is prepared to pay for them. In context, V36 rear lights are over $400.00 list per side. If you can pick up good condition DR30 light for $200.00 per side, it's still a very cheap option.

Cazz,

A thousand per side wouldn't buy any of mine.

D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think a pair of neither cracked nor faded S1 lights are going to hold their value more than you think D.

Obviously the S2's are more popular, but s1's in above mentioned condition are just as sought after as excellent condition S2's in Japan from what I've seen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think a pair of neither cracked nor faded S1 lights are going to hold their value more than you think D.

Obviously the S2's are more popular, but s1's in above mentioned condition are just as sought after as excellent condition S2's in Japan from what I've seen.

I think I had better take my near-perfect, non-cracked, non-faded hotplates off the rally car then!

Problem is, what's the point in having them if you aren't going to use them (or to keep as spares)...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Problem is, what's the point in having them if you aren't going to use them (or to keep as spares)...

Trade for my uncracked faded lights.. Much safer in my garage away from tree's and embankments lol :D

(was worth a try)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey, before I go off about non-faded - has anyone got a picture of some faded ones? I mean, mine don't look brand new (why would they), but the red is still red and the yellow is still yellow.

Interesting offer D-limo! I'll give that some serious cons... no. :D

Trade for my uncracked faded lights.. Much safer in my garage away from tree's and embankments lol :)

(was worth a try)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Couple of interesting pics I came across today in my searches.

Also my lights at the right for matty.

Anyone know if the lenses come apart easily?.. Thinking a can of transparent red or nightshade could do wonders.

post-15238-1271320810_thumb.jpg

post-15238-1271320826_thumb.jpg

post-15238-1271321067_thumb.jpg

Edited by D-limo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Couple of interesting pics I came across today in my searches.

Also my lights at the right for matty.

Anyone know if the lenses come apart easily?.. Thinking a can of transparent red or nightshade could do wonders.

Ever thought of colour coding the outer areas and just having the light circles?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

To bust everyones bubble, I have just managed to source 4 sets from Japan, brand new, through my Nissan Dealer. As well as every single panel. Just in case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good for you & you don't need to get them new from a dealer.

If your using Japan as the source, any number is available through Yahoo.

I have just ordered parts from KRS for my PNV and I hope I can get them before the nationals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...