Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The electric boot latch will now "latch", but wont tighten after it initially closes- normally you hear a whirring sound as the motor tightens the hatch but not anymore. It still unlatches using the electric button though and you can hear the sound of it unlatching. The battery was replaced but not sure that has anything to do with it.

Has anyone had the same problem, any suggestions for a solution?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313962-m35-boot-latch-problem/
Share on other sites

might be the boot switch, its somewhere around the latch, i THINK anyway.

does the boot courtesy light stay on or not turn on? that would indicate the switch as a problem.

i take it slamming the boot doesnt help??

It seems that it might be the switch or sensor that tells the motor to take up the tension- the "door open" light on the dash is constantly on, and the boot courtesy light stays on as well as though the boot isn't shut properly. I may end up taking it to an auto electrician to have a look at the switch and sensor, a better option than having water leak into the boot I think.

I haven't given it a really hard slam but a firm push doesn't seem to help, it latches with a gentle push, just wont take up the slack like it used to. The joys of an electric boot latch!

might be the boot switch, its somewhere around the latch, i THINK anyway.

does the boot courtesy light stay on or not turn on? that would indicate the switch as a problem.

i take it slamming the boot doesnt help??

Hey Michael, I spoke to Christof about this today and he mentioned that they have replaced a switch or mechanism on 2 Stageas in the past. If you call our shop tomorrow and ask for Ben or Christof and tell them about the problem, I'm sure they can give you an answer.

Eugene

Thanks, it will latch so it doesn't come open, but the motor doesn't pull the boot tightly shut like it used to. I will give Northshore a call thanks, it is going in to the auto electricians to get look at tomorrow so I will let you know how it goes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, it's me! Though honestly, if I had 20M in my bank account tomorrow, I would not want to be rid of my car all of the sudden - Which makes me think this is money stuff, not "I actually hate car" stuff. I'd probably double down and buy even more trinkets and fun things for it. If this is not you, then sell it cheaper. It will sell at a certain price after all.
    • This is the LCA mount reloctaion kit. Self explanatory in its description. https://au.gktech.com/products/s13-180sx-r32-subframe-anti-squat-reduction-weld-in-kit?_pos=62&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c These are the alloy subframe bush inserts that I am using. I like them. https://au.gktech.com/products/rear-subframe-slip-in-collars?_pos=29&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c Alternatively, if you have original and shitty bushes, you might consider outright replacement with poly. https://au.gktech.com/products/polyurethane-rear-subframe-bushes?_pos=28&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c I would also higly recommend that you look into adjustable RUCAs and tension rods, so you can sort out the camber and bump steer behaviour, especially if the car will be any more than ~15mm lower than stock. I would also highly recommend the GKTech FUCAs, although you really should do some research and learning on the subjetc of R32 FUCAs before making any decisions. All of this will be criticaly difficult to get through a TÜV inspection too, if that happens to be relevant to you. Note that if you do install the relocation kit, you will absolutely have to replace the associated bushes with spherical joints (you can read all about that on the product page) or upgrade the LCAs also.
    • I picked up my block and head last week and have been slowly assembling it since then. Pictures I took earlier this week. The rest of the auxiliaries are on now. I just have my intake manifold runners to tap for my WMI direct port setup before putting it back on. I should hopefully have the motor back in by this weekend.   
×
×
  • Create New...