Jump to content
SAU Community

Parting Out A Complete R33 Gtst Series 1 - Lots Of Aftermarket Bits


Recommended Posts

What's left mate?

Engine/Driveline stuff

RB25det - complete engine with all ancilliaries - $1250 SOLD

Garrett GT3076R BRAND NEW - .6 surge ported comp cover, .86 exh housing, external gate - $1600

Garrett GT3582R exhaust housing, .82 - $250

Jun "style" inlet manifold, still over $800 new on ebay - $600

BMI 86mm billet throttle body - $250

Deatschwerks 740cc injectors (straight fit in factory rail) - SOLD

SARD FPR, with gauge and adaptor for factory rail - SOLD

Walbro 255 l/hr intank fuel pump, BOSCH 044 external and 500ml surge tank, with all fuel hose required for fitment - SOLD

Performance-wise Oil cooler and filter relocation kit - SOLD

MSpec aluminium radiator, pretty sure it's 45mm - SOLD

KTS Intercooler, 600x300x100, 3" in and out - $200

FMIC, 600x300x70,3" in and out, BRAND NEW - $150

Tial 38mm wastegate, slight grinding marks from fitment, perfect working order - SOLD

Highmount steampipe manifold with merge collector (similar to 6boost), T3 flange and WG flange for Tial gate, will need WG pipe modded to fit a 25, straight fit for 25/30, HPC coated - SOLD

Excedy twin plate clutch, plenty of meat left - $1000

Lightweight chromoly flywheel, good condition - SOLD

RB25det gearbox - was perfect previously was a bit clunky going into gear after i dragged it through the tunnel with the shifter in (only driven for 200 metres since), hence price - $1000

5Zigen 3" cat-back exhaust with oval muffler, quiet and was flowig 450rwhp - $250

Splitfire coil packs, perfect working order - SOLD

JJR GTR polished alloy washer bottle replacement with oil catch can, has been separated but can be re-welded - SOLD

Turbosmart Type 2 plumb-back BOV - $150 - SOLD

R33 non ABS diff, shimmed a few years ago, still nice and tight - $100

Suspension/Brakes

Sydneykid whiteline/Bilstien springs and shocks, circlip adjustable, 5000km use - $1000

Whiteline fixed front and rear swaybars, not sure of size but the biggest fixed ones they make - $350

Adjstable Rear upper camber arms - $100 - SOLD

Front adjustable castor arms - $100

Front strut bar, polished - $100

Rear strut bar, factory - SOLD

Front brakes, with RDA slotted rotors and Ferodo DS2500 pads, hardly any pad wear - SOLD

Rear brakes, stock - $150 - ON HOLD

Starcorp Impul rims, white, deep dish rear, 18x8.5 F, 18x9.5 R, some gutter rash, ss595 rears with 75%, Nexen fronts need replacing - SOLD

Electronics

Haltech E11v2 with R33 patch loom and 3 bar MAP sensor - SOLD

Blitz dual SBC EBC, the older black one, dual solenoid good working order - SOLD

NISMO clear side winkers - SOLD

Auto gauge 2 1/4" inch stepper motor gauges, smoked, with all senders - Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Boost - SOLD

Pioneer CD/MP3 headunit, basic model, black, removable face - $50

Jaycar response 4ch amp - $100

Fusion 12" sub in box- $50

Body & Interior

Garage Defend carbon fibre air guide, perfect fit for GTST, good condition - $400

NISMO GT shift knob, excellent condition - SOLD

Series 2 steering wheel, very good condition - $150 - ON HOLD

Series 1 headlights, sedan model with silver inserts, excellent condition - $300

Rear lights, black - $50

Series 2 rear wing, black, with boot - $100

Type M front bar, black, stone chips so needs paint, meshed with high quality case mesh - SOLD

Type M side skirts, good condition - $150

400R side skirts, 1 has a slight crack otherwise a really well made set of skirts, gunmetal - $150

Type M rear pods, black, good condition - $80

Series 1 dash surround, very good condition, has been stripped and repainted - $100

Centre console with gear surround and ashtray, good condition, gear surround stripped and repainted - $100

Drivers side window switch panel - $100

Series 2 seats, front and rear, drivers side has tear in bolster - SOLD

Interior carpet and boot trim - $60 - ON HOLD

Seatbelt stay, the swinging thing that holds the seatbelt off your neck - $40

Those surrounds, did you just paint them black again? Wouldn't mind grabbing a pic in a pm off you mate =)

Also, the handbrake surround, hows that? =P

Annnnnnd the front strut bar =D

Those surrounds, did you just paint them black again? Wouldn't mind grabbing a pic in a pm off you mate =)

Also, the handbrake surround, hows that? =P

Annnnnnd the front strut bar =D

I painted the surround with Tamiya model paint, specifically for plastic, it has come up quite nicely

Handbrake surround is in excellent nick and both gear and handbrake boots were replaced a few years ago

strut brace is still available

will PM pics in the next day or so

  • 1 month later...

hey mate, cant pm yet. but can i get a price on:

steering rack with column from rack up to the bush before the firewall

clutch master and slave cylinder

brake booster

cheers

  • 2 years later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...