Jump to content
SAU Community

Parting Out A Complete R33 Gtst Series 1 - Lots Of Aftermarket Bits


Lazy-Bastard
 Share

Recommended Posts

What's left mate?

Engine/Driveline stuff

RB25det - complete engine with all ancilliaries - $1250 SOLD

Garrett GT3076R BRAND NEW - .6 surge ported comp cover, .86 exh housing, external gate - $1600

Garrett GT3582R exhaust housing, .82 - $250

Jun "style" inlet manifold, still over $800 new on ebay - $600

BMI 86mm billet throttle body - $250

Deatschwerks 740cc injectors (straight fit in factory rail) - SOLD

SARD FPR, with gauge and adaptor for factory rail - SOLD

Walbro 255 l/hr intank fuel pump, BOSCH 044 external and 500ml surge tank, with all fuel hose required for fitment - SOLD

Performance-wise Oil cooler and filter relocation kit - SOLD

MSpec aluminium radiator, pretty sure it's 45mm - SOLD

KTS Intercooler, 600x300x100, 3" in and out - $200

FMIC, 600x300x70,3" in and out, BRAND NEW - $150

Tial 38mm wastegate, slight grinding marks from fitment, perfect working order - SOLD

Highmount steampipe manifold with merge collector (similar to 6boost), T3 flange and WG flange for Tial gate, will need WG pipe modded to fit a 25, straight fit for 25/30, HPC coated - SOLD

Excedy twin plate clutch, plenty of meat left - $1000

Lightweight chromoly flywheel, good condition - SOLD

RB25det gearbox - was perfect previously was a bit clunky going into gear after i dragged it through the tunnel with the shifter in (only driven for 200 metres since), hence price - $1000

5Zigen 3" cat-back exhaust with oval muffler, quiet and was flowig 450rwhp - $250

Splitfire coil packs, perfect working order - SOLD

JJR GTR polished alloy washer bottle replacement with oil catch can, has been separated but can be re-welded - SOLD

Turbosmart Type 2 plumb-back BOV - $150 - SOLD

R33 non ABS diff, shimmed a few years ago, still nice and tight - $100

Suspension/Brakes

Sydneykid whiteline/Bilstien springs and shocks, circlip adjustable, 5000km use - $1000

Whiteline fixed front and rear swaybars, not sure of size but the biggest fixed ones they make - $350

Adjstable Rear upper camber arms - $100 - SOLD

Front adjustable castor arms - $100

Front strut bar, polished - $100

Rear strut bar, factory - SOLD

Front brakes, with RDA slotted rotors and Ferodo DS2500 pads, hardly any pad wear - SOLD

Rear brakes, stock - $150 - ON HOLD

Starcorp Impul rims, white, deep dish rear, 18x8.5 F, 18x9.5 R, some gutter rash, ss595 rears with 75%, Nexen fronts need replacing - SOLD

Electronics

Haltech E11v2 with R33 patch loom and 3 bar MAP sensor - SOLD

Blitz dual SBC EBC, the older black one, dual solenoid good working order - SOLD

NISMO clear side winkers - SOLD

Auto gauge 2 1/4" inch stepper motor gauges, smoked, with all senders - Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Boost - SOLD

Pioneer CD/MP3 headunit, basic model, black, removable face - $50

Jaycar response 4ch amp - $100

Fusion 12" sub in box- $50

Body & Interior

Garage Defend carbon fibre air guide, perfect fit for GTST, good condition - $400

NISMO GT shift knob, excellent condition - SOLD

Series 2 steering wheel, very good condition - $150 - ON HOLD

Series 1 headlights, sedan model with silver inserts, excellent condition - $300

Rear lights, black - $50

Series 2 rear wing, black, with boot - $100

Type M front bar, black, stone chips so needs paint, meshed with high quality case mesh - SOLD

Type M side skirts, good condition - $150

400R side skirts, 1 has a slight crack otherwise a really well made set of skirts, gunmetal - $150

Type M rear pods, black, good condition - $80

Series 1 dash surround, very good condition, has been stripped and repainted - $100

Centre console with gear surround and ashtray, good condition, gear surround stripped and repainted - $100

Drivers side window switch panel - $100

Series 2 seats, front and rear, drivers side has tear in bolster - SOLD

Interior carpet and boot trim - $60 - ON HOLD

Seatbelt stay, the swinging thing that holds the seatbelt off your neck - $40

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those surrounds, did you just paint them black again? Wouldn't mind grabbing a pic in a pm off you mate =)

Also, the handbrake surround, hows that? =P

Annnnnnd the front strut bar =D

I painted the surround with Tamiya model paint, specifically for plastic, it has come up quite nicely

Handbrake surround is in excellent nick and both gear and handbrake boots were replaced a few years ago

strut brace is still available

will PM pics in the next day or so

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 years later...
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I've been working on the car a fair bit, doing a lot of little things. Preparing some projects for this winter, as I'm taking 13 weeks off very soon for parental leave. Have my second kid on the way and he's due any week now. I'll need something to do while he's sleeping. I also usually take the car off the road in about a month and a half, until sometime around the end of March.  Still making slight adjustments to my tune, as the cold weather settles in. I've also had to start dropping boost and tire pressure as the weather gets cooler. It's getting very swirly at highway speeds. I drop to 20psi at 20C and 18psi spring pressure at 10C IAT's. I'm currently on 255 Falcon RT660's, but may look into running 275's next summer. They will fit, but barely. Might have to raise the rear a tad.  I'll start redoing my exhaust Monday, as I have the week off. I currently have an oval center muffler and cannon rear muffler. I've been told more then once from people behind me that my rear bumper is going to catch on fire one day. Seems I blow 5-10 second flames after doing a pull. No clue if that's the WMI, as I've never been able to do that before with other cars. I wanted to angle my tip down a tad so flames are pointed down and away from bumper. I also wanted to take the opportunity to reconfigure my exhaust line. I'm going to move my oval muffler to the rear with a pie cut angled tip and put in a new smaller round muffler in the center. I've rocked cannon mufflers on this car for the last few years and want to transition back the oval muffler look. I've also been looking for a stainless project to try out the new solar flux I bought. I'll post pictures on Monday, should be able to wrap that up in a day.  I'm also picking up another rear subframe this week. I wanted a second so that I could modify one with a gk tech anti squat reduction kit during the winter, and still be able to keep the car a roller so I can back it out of the garage if needed. I will also be caging it this winter. More on that later. Lastly, Speedtek still hasn't given me diddly squat. Every week for the last 4 weeks, they have been saying next week. They told me Friday to expect a shipping label that day to ship my two bad sets of ring and pinions back and nothing. There's definitely been more contact since I started destroying their company any chance I get on Facebook, but it's still just words without action.   
    • Have you done a pressure test on your intake/piping? Cleaned your IACV and Cold start valve?
    • Bit of a dump of ones I saw on my trip. I also have a heap from daikoko but that’s technically not  on the street 
    • i was thinking that the 2 wires that go to the sub from factory has some sort of preamp like you mentioned and also a lo Pass filter to get just bass. now that will only use 1 channel and that really should be all i need for a sub? if i was trying to put a set of speakers in the back i can understand cutting into the left and right speaker wires. i will try how im talking about doing it and if that is crap i will do it the way of all wires. thanks for the input guys.  
    • Challenging mig welding thin Aluminium pipe and trying to fit it in, having to bend and twist, but got there in the end. Fits really well and can easily get a socket wrench in there now to put it on/off. I'm in the middle of another project, so haven't installed the suction pipe yet. I'll post some pictures and results when i do.
×
×
  • Create New...