Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi Everyone,

Wifey lost her keys with the remote to the Viper 5002 alarm installed , just wondering Once i get a replacement viper remote, can the frequencies be changed so that whoever found old remote will not be able to disable the car alarm?

Thanks in advance

no, the alarm is code hopping model, the code changes everytime you push the button,and these remotes cost a bucket load to replace, $200+ in most cases

Code Hopping is used to "encrypt" the signals transmitted by Viper remote controls. The codes randomly change each time you arm or disarm your alarm following a complex algorithm, so that the codes never repeat. Many Viper systems include an advanced Clone-Safe Code Hopping format that delivers a total of more than 18 Quintillion Codes - that's 18 followed by 18 zeros! Code Hopping provides you with better security and peace of mind, knowing that only your remote controlled transmitter can operate the system. By the way, code grabbers can work on garage doors too, and have likely been used by criminals to gain entry to the home that way. You may want to think about using a Code Hopping receiver on your garage door, so that you can work it with your keychain transmitter.(You'll probably get better range too!)

how about a shitty piranha car alarm? I just bought a cheap car, it came with no alarm remote, or mention of alarm. but there's a piranha unit in the engine bay that looks to be wired up.

can i somehow get a remote to check if this alarm works? or is that a mission not worth the effort?

  • 2 weeks later...
no, the alarm is code hopping model, the code changes everytime you push the button,and these remotes cost a bucket load to replace, $200+ in most cases

Code Hopping is used to "encrypt" the signals transmitted by Viper remote controls. The codes randomly change each time you arm or disarm your alarm following a complex algorithm, so that the codes never repeat. Many Viper systems include an advanced Clone-Safe Code Hopping format that delivers a total of more than 18 Quintillion Codes - that's 18 followed by 18 zeros! Code Hopping provides you with better security and peace of mind, knowing that only your remote controlled transmitter can operate the system. By the way, code grabbers can work on garage doors too, and have likely been used by criminals to gain entry to the home that way. You may want to think about using a Code Hopping receiver on your garage door, so that you can work it with your keychain transmitter.(You'll probably get better range too!)

once you get the new remote tuned in you shouldn't have a problem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My understanding is that UV tends to accelerate the aging process. If the car has been garaged, then you could probably get away with extending beyond 10 years. FWIW, in 2015, I had tyres on my 180B SSS that had a 3-digit code (2 for week, 1 for decade), ending in 0, so could have been more than 30 years old, but still worked fine. I did replaced them very quickly, though, once I discovered what the code meant!
    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
×
×
  • Create New...