Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have been looking at lots of different turbos that would work well on my RB25. So I had a few minutes spare at work and thought I would put them on a chart to do a comparison. Let me stress this is very approximate, I only took 7 different rpm readings and rounded off the power figures to at least 5kw. Its just more to get an idea of the different shapes etc.

- 3071R dyno sheet was obtained from the Nistune Forum, in particular Matts own one

- 3076R dyno sheet was obtained from the RB25 dyno results thread on this forum

- Hiflow was off Hypergears website

- PU Hiflow was also off Hypergears website

- Std Turbo is my own dyno sheet

Some of the inconsistencies:

- boost level, generally it is around 17psi dropping off to around 15psi (except for the std turbo which is only 10psi).

- speed vs rpm seemed to vary between the dyno sheets, could be the different model cars having different diff gears.

So please take it for what it is.

post-29432-1269923514_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314283-quick-turbo-comparison-on-rb25/
Share on other sites

so how about seeing the HKS 2835 ProS or the HKS 3037 on there... :thumbsup:

how many power curves can you fit on there before it becomes hard to read.

they are out of my budget so guess I hadnt even been thinking about them. will see if i get some more "spare" time at work hehe

Can you also start @ 2000rpm? :P

Fussy i know, but a fair bit of driving is between 2000-3000rpm for a lot of people, IMO it's an area that can be important.

Larger turbo you have, more of a "hole" you have before 3000rpm meaning around town the car tends to feel lazy.

Which result of 3071 did you use? Perhaps try one of the ones from this forum?

The 3071 seems to be a bit slower than i'd expect...

I'll have a chat to Paul and Christian and see if we can't get our own version going - one similar to anti-lag's where you can remove graphs and add them in at will.

Will take someone to manually plot them i think, but once initial work is done could prove quite handy overall.

sau.garagespank.com dyno thingy was the old tool we used

RPM = (SPEED / 28) * 1000

this assumes 4th gear with 4.11 diff gears

so for BNR34 it should be dynoed in 5th gear, HR32,ECR33, BCNR33 all 4th gear

oh cool I made the right choice with the 2835 then with the earlier power range, which is what Im after.... I cant wait...

but geez the 3076 really does have some mid range doesnt it... oh well...

thanks btw..

Great idea Harvey. I am freaking out about my turbo selection now, I went and bought a 3071R (real spec) in 0.63A/R, but I keep being told that I should have gone with a 2871R instead for chasing a responsive 250-260kw? Is there any way to add a 2871R (HKS GT-RS) to the chart, just for comparison? And maybe show the exhaust A/R to legend?

Thanks mate!

Can you also start @ 2000rpm? >_<

Fussy i know, but a fair bit of driving is between 2000-3000rpm for a lot of people, IMO it's an area that can be important.

Larger turbo you have, more of a "hole" you have before 3000rpm meaning around town the car tends to feel lazy.

Which result of 3071 did you use? Perhaps try one of the ones from this forum?

The 3071 seems to be a bit slower than i'd expect...

I'll have a chat to Paul and Christian and see if we can't get our own version going - one similar to anti-lag's where you can remove graphs and add them in at will.

Will take someone to manually plot them i think, but once initial work is done could prove quite handy overall.

Yup will try and get some 2000rpm readings.

I got the 3071R chart from here:

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=2...fa&start=15

Its really hard to compare apples with apples as I mentioned with different boost levels and other differing setups.

I reckon the really surprising result is the PU High Flow offered from Hypergear!

All turbos (except standard and std hi flow) have a 0.82 equivalent size exhaust housing. Im a mid range top end person so thats what I naturally focussed on. In my opinion you want to make sure a turbo makes power all the way to redline, no point having a such a nice revvy engine like the rb and then a restrictive turbo. Yes there are plenty of turbos that can still have some nice low down as well which is the ideal of course. If low down torque is your number 1 preference then why buy an rb25, plenty of other larger capacity engines with more low down torque. I agree though its about the overall package.

Yeah would be great to get a more detailed one going. I have always found it hard to look at different dynos and compare them.

Edited by Harey
Great idea Harvey. I am freaking out about my turbo selection now, I went and bought a 3071R (real spec) in 0.63A/R, but I keep being told that I should have gone with a 2871R instead for chasing a responsive 250-260kw? Is there any way to add a 2871R (HKS GT-RS) to the chart, just for comparison? And maybe show the exhaust A/R to legend?

Thanks mate!

I think you have chosen well with the 3071R. I think a 2871R is too small for an rb25. I would actually choose the 0.82 housing with the 3071R but thats just me. I think the 3071R has the nicest curve (excluding the hks turbos) on that chart.

Do you know what A/R Matt has on his 3071? From what I have read boost control seems inevitable with the 0.63, but I just don't know what the lag would be like for the 0.82. However, if confirmed that Matt has 0.82 then I will gladly swap over as the 3071 curve follows a similiar progression to his stock turbo setup.

Yup will try and get some 2000rpm readings.

I got the 3071R chart from here:

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=2...fa&start=15

Its really hard to compare apples with apples as I mentioned with different boost levels and other differing setups.

I reckon the really surprising result is the PU High Flow offered from Hypergear!

All turbos (except standard and std hi flow) have a 0.82 equivalent size exhaust housing. Im a mid range top end person so thats what I naturally focussed on. In my opinion you want to make sure a turbo makes power all the way to redline, no point having a such a nice revvy engine like the rb and then a restrictive turbo. Yes there are plenty of turbos that can still have some nice low down as well which is the ideal of course. If low down torque is your number 1 preference then why buy an rb25, plenty of other larger capacity engines with more low down torque. I agree though its about the overall package.

Yeah would be great to get a more detailed one going. I have always found it hard to look at different dynos and compare them.

Didn't see that.

Well in the name of ressearch, to compare apples with apples, is there anyone out there with a reasonably priced genuine 0.82 exhaust housing that they could sell me? I could do dyno runs with both setups (3071R 0.63 & 3071R 0.82) at the same boost levels and post them up. Anyone interested to see that?

Didn't see that.

Well in the name of ressearch, to compare apples with apples, is there anyone out there with a reasonably priced genuine 0.82 exhaust housing that they could sell me? I could do dyno runs with both setups (3071R 0.63 & 3071R 0.82) at the same boost levels and post them up. Anyone interested to see that?

Hells yes I am interested >_<

Fair effort for you though.

oh cool I made the right choice with the 2835 then with the earlier power range, which is what Im after.... I cant wait...

but geez the 3076 really does have some mid range doesnt it... oh well...

thanks btw..

Personally I the HKS 2835 is the choice off all those turbos. I would be very content if I were you.

Interesting........the 3076 obviously is not on the best combination of motor/mods otherwise is would continue to go up the chart rather than dip and turn over.

The 3037 is a really good progressive turbo, but has less midrange than I thought it should have, but as you say they are all 'snapshots' of one! Ohh to be able to have the time to take a sample of say 20 for each turbo and then plot the average. Never mind in a braod sense it is all relative.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have found the problem. The wire from the switch to the HB is shorted to earth. Now you have to physically find it and replace it. It won't be the switch, although following the steps above (and yes, where you ask, that is the light switch on the RHS of the binnacle) will rule it out for sure. Or not, if perhaps the switch has melted. But there's no route to earth inside the switch, so I can't see how it would.
    • I did read your post, a few times actually.    Done. Followed this step. [Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.]   Did this partially.. now that im reading this over, i only unplugged the LED lights. [Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches.] When you are talking about the switch, you're talking about the knob thing on the right side in the drivers seat right? If so, i need to take that apart?  [Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch.] At this point are you referring to the connector by the headlights?  [If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.] Did this. I can confirm that the LED lights aren't the issue [Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.]
    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
×
×
  • Create New...