Stagea Shaking

[S3cret]

Hi all ,

I just bought a stagea - i used to have a supra before this .

Its RS rear wheel drive NEO auto turbo 1999 GTT model HKS air filter tein coilovers stainless twin jasma exhaust , was sitting at a compliance place for 6 months

its nice lookin car done like 76K kms clean interior

has rust under the mirrors have to get fixed , and faded brakes need to get machined and buy pads , had jvc head unit installed front and rear speakers need to be replaced

main problem is engines shaking feels like running on 3 cylinders ( is this missfire?)

when i bought it , got plugs changed platinum bosch oil magnatec 10-40W oil filter genuine usual serviceable items

i switch on starts shaking burns though petrol like crazy 68L in 120km first few days would shake then heat up and all ok I put in moly can injector cleaner

second time i fill up 68L in 250 Km , reved out to try n clean up , cleaned inside exhaust for soot and stuff ,

looked over all pipes and hose clamps for boost leaks , ive been reading all notes about issues off your discussions

disconnected afm and plugged in , tried to reset ecu - battery disconnect and left door open , u can smell shell V power

straight outta exhaust it gets damn hot goes brownish from silver , when you turn car over gives fault TC and SLIP ,

when running normal no lights display on the dash , some pages suggest leaking injectors , faulty coilpacks, AAC too much air in intake ?

boost leaks ? im not a mechanic how can i test these theories ? any decent mechanics in melb specialising in Neo motors?

you can hear the car spool up and breathing with the blow off valve kicking when u get off the accelerator

but when shaking it doesnt move much - loss of power up hill and take ages to take off

id be happy if the car done 400Ks to 68L of Vpower and runs smooth , would really like to hear your ideas and what i should do anyone else had these issues when they

bought a stagea - what are basics for preventative maintanaince and troubleshooting?

would love to attend stagea meet and see other stags on the road , if i could get your feedback would be much appreciated

regards

S3cret

[stagman]

Hi all ,

I just bought a stagea - i used to have a supra before this .

Its RS rear wheel drive NEO auto turbo 1999 GTT model HKS air filter tein coilovers stainless twin jasma exhaust , was sitting at a compliance place for 6 months

its nice lookin car done like 76K kms clean interior

has rust under the mirrors have to get fixed , and faded brakes need to get machined and buy pads , had jvc head unit installed front and rear speakers need to be replaced

main problem is engines shaking feels like running on 3 cylinders ( is this missfire?)

when i bought it , got plugs changed platinum bosch oil magnatec 10-40W oil filter genuine usual serviceable items

i switch on starts shaking burns though petrol like crazy 68L in 120km first few days would shake then heat up and all ok I put in moly can injector cleaner

second time i fill up 68L in 250 Km , reved out to try n clean up , cleaned inside exhaust for soot and stuff ,

looked over all pipes and hose clamps for boost leaks , ive been reading all notes about issues off your discussions

disconnected afm and plugged in , tried to reset ecu - battery disconnect and left door open , u can smell shell V power

straight outta exhaust it gets damn hot goes brownish from silver , when you turn car over gives fault TC and SLIP ,

when running normal no lights display on the dash , some pages suggest leaking injectors , faulty coilpacks, AAC too much air in intake ?

boost leaks ? im not a mechanic how can i test these theories ? any decent mechanics in melb specialising in Neo motors?

you can hear the car spool up and breathing with the blow off valve kicking when u get off the accelerator

but when shaking it doesnt move much - loss of power up hill and take ages to take off

id be happy if the car done 400Ks to 68L of Vpower and runs smooth , would really like to hear your ideas and what i should do anyone else had these issues when they

bought a stagea - what are basics for preventative maintanaince and troubleshooting?

would love to attend stagea meet and see other stags on the road , if i could get your feedback would be much appreciated

regards

S3cret

Got me stumped? Does the coolant have any evidence of any inhibitor. under the radiator cap you would see most likely brown gunk shit, Which could mean further problems causing the shaking/ running on less cylinders. Other then that... I'm sure other's on here will have a much better idea.

[FLN75S]

Could be coil packs breaking down re-the shutter hesitation

The bad fuel economy could be put down to a worn out O2 sensor.

[S3cret]

Could be coil packs breaking down re-the shutter hesitation

The bad fuel economy could be put down to a worn out O2 sensor.

thanks for reply , yeah ill have a mechanic check over it -

i just noticed an air ( woosh) sound coming from under the neo rocker cover

im not a mechanic so i dont want to fubar it much more than it already is

when i asked to have the plugs done they put all the things back in a hurry

and i found 2 clamps undone , how much you recon for a sensor ?

is it worth buying those yellow jackets or splitfire packs off ebay there selling like 500+ ?

has anyone had any experiance with those ? hope to get shit sorted soon

- i thought stageas were reliable daily drives supras dont give much headaches

the forum is awesome and i really appreciate all the efforts

[RS-V AREO]

hey mate i had the very same problem when i got my rs-v (rear wheel) the same fault signs came up, its from the coilpacks that makes the shakes and the o2 sensor sets the fault signs off, its from the atmopshieric pressure it f**ks up the settings apprently so if its on warranty go and get it fixed or just take it to an import place and fix i, cos the longer you leave it the worse its gonna get cos it starts to put massive strain on the motor. and ps instead of getting stock coilpacks go and get spitfires cos the stock 1's will just keep goin on you.

Hope that helps mate if you have any other questions pm me

[S3cret]

hey mate i had the very same problem when i got my rs-v (rear wheel) the same fault signs came up, its from the coilpacks that makes the shakes and the o2 sensor sets the fault signs off, its from the atmopshieric pressure it f**ks up the settings apprently so if its on warranty go and get it fixed or just take it to an import place and fix i, cos the longer you leave it the worse its gonna get cos it starts to put massive strain on the motor. and ps instead of getting stock coilpacks go and get spitfires cos the stock 1's will just keep goin on you.

Hope that helps mate if you have any other questions pm me

thanks for reply mate , yeah i had a funny feeling that might be the case - coz when they opened the cover i saw numbers on the packs and i was thinking

compliance dude was dodge and used mine and swapped for rubbish , does running car like shaking cause alot of damage ? yer ill place an order for coilpacks asap

from japan

regards S3cret

[RS-V AREO]

thanks for reply mate , yeah i had a funny feeling that might be the case - coz when they opened the cover i saw numbers on the packs and i was thinking

compliance dude was dodge and used mine and swapped for rubbish , does running car like shaking cause alot of damage ? yer ill place an order for coilpacks asap

from japan

regards S3cret

no need to get them from japan just type spitfire coilpacks into google and get them from the distributors in sydney their $500 dollars and they last forever and yeah it can do some damage if its over a long period of time how long has it been goin on?

[Oddy man]

Superspark coilpacks are just as good as splitfires, 500 delivered in Australia, just check the website out.

Makes a load of difference over OEM

[S3cret]

Superspark coilpacks are just as good as splitfires, 500 delivered in Australia, just check the website out.

Makes a load of difference over OEM

My uncle is in nagoya in japan and he has a parts shop in melbourne so im gonna ask him to buy me a set of splitfires from there

im guessing id get them bit cheaper than here ones ive found on ebay are 500-600 & im not soo trusting they look like korea

copies of japanese parts ive forwarded links anyone bought these? so like 70-100 dollars each kinda highway robbery dont ya think?

if he can get cheaper and large quantity ill ask him to sell on ebay for less , one other question - how much do front rear brake pads cost ?

are they available in australia or should i ask him to bring those too - ? yeah ive had the car less than a week - i think hell be back in melb

b4 easter so yeah i dont wanna drive too much in this condition.

Appreciate all your efforts

Regards S3cret

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SKYLINE-R34-Stagea-...109212001r11606

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Splitfire-Coil-Pack...0325129001r5870

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/YELLOW-JACKETS-COIL...=item25593f6ff5

[mr manfringinsen]

Have a compression check or leakdown test done to see if the headgasket, valves, rings etc are OK.

[lilcrash]

Just my 2 cents. Splitfires are the only direct replacement, all the others only use one bolt as they are not the same size.

[pipster11]

Just my 2 cents. Splitfires are the only direct replacement, all the others only use one bolt as they are not the same size.

think they have rectified that

was reading the splitfire vs superspark vs jjr thread the other day and they all bolt up fine i think

also, i would consider running an ngk plug as that is what the car came from factory with (rule of thumb = jap cars -> jap plugs, euro cars ->euro plugs)

and seeing as its a common problem i'd have a look at the coilpacks, dont think you can go wrong really

jjr give you a 12 month warranty as do superspark but i dont think splitfire do

i have jjr's in my 32 and seemed fine but i've also heard good things about the supersparks

[lilcrash]

I may be wrong but I think splitfires are lifetime guarentee

[pipster11]

I may be wrong but I think splitfires are lifetime guarentee

maybe in japland but resellers here dont cover them i dont think

check the thread here on sau somewhere

lot of ppl saying how you get no warranty on them

[kidafa]

Ok Ive been sitting back watching this thread for a bit....

Lets clear some things up:

Firstly the stock coil packs are not "crap" as someone mentioned. In fact they are the best coil pack for your car, its just after about 10 years+ the begin to fail and need replacing. If you havnt checked the cost of the stockies you should then you will realise why no one buys them. Most people buy splitfires as they are easy to come buy and are PROVEN, put JJR's or yellow jackets if you want, and while your at it fill up with a tank of 91 :S

Secondly some clown has mentioned that Jap cars need jap plugs and euro cars need euro plugs... guess i better get german made plugs for my bombardier jet ski engine?

I'd be doing the following:

Hook up a consult cable see if its throwing codes, and check 02 sensor voltages

Remove the coilpacks and plugs and look to see if they have visually been arcing out onto the engine or not.

Chuck in a new set of plugs gapped to .8

Check the base timing with a timing light

Clean you AAC valve

If its still doing it replace coilpacks or swap them out with a mate if you can.

02 Sensor definitely worth looking at. An EL falcon one is identical just need to crimp the 3 wires and is ALOT cheaper.

[pipster11]

Ok Ive been sitting back watching this thread for a bit....

Lets clear some things up:

Firstly the stock coil packs are not "crap" as someone mentioned. In fact they are the best coil pack for your car, its just after about 10 years+ the begin to fail and need replacing. If you havnt checked the cost of the stockies you should then you will realise why no one buys them. Most people buy splitfires as they are easy to come buy and are PROVEN, put JJR's or yellow jackets if you want, and while your at it fill up with a tank of 91 :S

Secondly some clown has mentioned that Jap cars need jap plugs and euro cars need euro plugs... guess i better get german made plugs for my bombardier jet ski engine?

I'd be doing the following:

Hook up a consult cable see if its throwing codes, and check 02 sensor voltages

Remove the coilpacks and plugs and look to see if they have visually been arcing out onto the engine or not.

Chuck in a new set of plugs gapped to .8

Check the base timing with a timing light

Clean you AAC valve

If its still doing it replace coilpacks or swap them out with a mate if you can.

02 Sensor definitely worth looking at. An EL falcon one is identical just need to crimp the 3 wires and is ALOT cheaper.

re the spark plugs, i've heard quite a few ppl say that

i dont bosch plugs in a nissan would affect it too much but i've heard of euro cars running bad on ngk and fine on bosch (i used to live in the uk)

stock new coilpacks are the best and i think at the moment your looking at about $1200 for a set of 6

splitfires will cost around $600

yellow jackets - $450

jjr - $500-$550?

also, the coilpack looms are notorious for going brittle and failing so it may be that

with the engine running, just simply move any wiring you can - dont yank it but move it about where you can and listen for changes in the engine (picking up or dropping a cyl etc)

good luck

[S3cret]

Hey all , finally fixed the misfire ... 6 new platinum's and a new set of coil packs engine is now..

Before when running on 4 cylinders and i used to take off it used to go as soon as u push the pedal like low down torque

now it sits there starts to whoosh then slowly launches like transmission lag.

Is there anyway to get it to go as soon as i put the foot down ?

On 4 cylinders i was getting around 200km to 68L around $90 of Vpower now on 6 around 400Km to $90 anyway to get a good balance of power when you need it and economy .... my NA supra had good balance of power and fuel economy 450km to $70petrol

I like the 0-60km rush gets you ahead in traffic - once it does get going it fly's 70-110 is fast wish i had a manual ...

The A/T light flashes a few times guess it needs some new juice ... would be great to get some feedback on how to improve its take off and tuning .

Id like to make it a sleeper/drifter as my daily drive.. My stags debadged and i was lined up next to a newish Volvo wagon blank stares

as i took off from the cops directing traffic lol

appreciate your feedback

Regards S3cret

[RS4StagMan]

Hey all , finally fixed the misfire ... 6 new platinum's and a new set of coil packs engine is now..

Before when running on 4 cylinders and i used to take off it used to go as soon as u push the pedal like low down torque

now it sits there starts to whoosh then slowly launches like transmission lag.

Is there anyway to get it to go as soon as i put the foot down ?

On 4 cylinders i was getting around 200km to 68L around $90 of Vpower now on 6 around 400Km to $90 anyway to get a good balance of power when you need it and economy .... my NA supra had good balance of power and fuel economy 450km to $70petrol

I like the 0-60km rush gets you ahead in traffic - once it does get going it fly's 70-110 is fast wish i had a manual ...

The A/T light flashes a few times guess it needs some new juice ... would be great to get some feedback on how to improve its take off and tuning .

Id like to make it a sleeper/drifter as my daily drive.. My stags debadged and i was lined up next to a newish Volvo wagon blank stares

as i took off from the cops directing traffic lol

appreciate your feedback

Regards S3cret

Good to see you have sorted out the misfire......new coilpacks and plugs work wonders.

RE: the auto light, search on here to see how you can extract any fault codes from both the engine ECU and the AUTO ecu. This may give you a little more info.

Remember that the car's computers are there to help you...!