Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title suggests,

Just installed an Autometer Pro-Comp Ultra-Lite A/F guage in an R33 RB26. Wired: Red to Power, Black to Ground and Violet to ECU O2 Sensor connection (clear wire at pin 29)

As soon as the ignition is switched on the last green rich LED lights up and the light never moves from it at all, ever.

I can't find any troubleshooting or posts anywhere with same problems and an answer.

So...

Is it a wiring issue?

O2 Sensor issue?

Is my car just that rich?

Something else?

Thanks,

Choco.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314331-airfuel-guage-troubleshooting/
Share on other sites

First off, if your car's that rich, you'd have other problems, bad problems too. So rule that out...

Was the gauge designed for use with the stock narrow band sensors? i.e not specifically for a wideband sensor?

Double, triple check youve got the correct wire on the ECU, it sounds like you might've soldered on the wrong one.

Try this also: put a volt meter on the sensor's wiring, and have a look at the voltage when the car's running. with your hand, crack open the throttle slightly and see if they change, that will make sure your sensors are infact, working.

at a guess i'd say your O2 sensor is dead. with the car running put a multimeter on the O2 sensor signal wire and check to see if it bounces back and forward between 0-1v. if you getting a constant voltage say 0.9v, then you O2 sensor is dead and that explains the reading on your A/F gauge.

please be careful. you are trying to wire up a 02 guage to a narrow band 02 sensor (there are two on the GTR)

the issue with the narrrow band ones is they are slow and narrow and are really only useful at stoich 14.7 AFR

they are useless for anything else other than giving the stock ecu feeedback during closed loop

so whilst your issue seems fundamental (wiring or dead sensor) once fixed please dont use this to tune the car

its likely thre guage will just bounce around all over the place and never show anything meaningful that resembles AFRs or how it's tuned

Cheers will try the multimeter. No the gauge will not be used for tuning. Purely used as a guide if the car is leaning out and shows something needs further attention. I know they are not accurate but I figure something a little accurate is better than nothing.

Thanks for the concern anyway.

Cheers,

Allan

yeah it sounds like your o2 sensor is dead. new o2 sensor should give you a bit better fuel economy.

also the o2 sensor won't tell you if you are leaning out unless you are really leaning out badly. you could have your car tuned to the ideal AFR of aroung 12:1 and it will still say you are rich. you could be leaning out to around 13.5:1 and it will still say you are running rich. if they do tell you that you are running lean then you have more than likely have damage done as the car has to be running pretty darn lean before they will tell you that you are.

also it would be worth hooking it into the other o2 sensor to see if it is also dead

Cheers will try the multimeter. No the gauge will not be used for tuning. Purely used as a guide if the car is leaning out and shows something needs further attention. I know they are not accurate but I figure something a little accurate is better than nothing.

Thanks for the concern anyway.

Cheers,

Allan

Sorry mate but AFR guages are a waste of money. They are not even "a little accurate".

It will never do anything other than have nice colours, honest truth.

If you want proper AFR read out, you need to install a wideband and get feedback that way.

You'll never stand a chance running of factory O2 Sensors, they were not designed for that and as soon as the move of stoich, they are useless - rendering any gauge a waste of time and money.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...