Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im lookin and gettin a different diff i have a r32 skyline it has the stock lsd but is still cutting one wheel even now and then what diff would be best for a street car i want somethink that is almost locked but has a bit of play for turning sharp eg parking and somethink that isnt heeps loud if possaible

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314404-what-diff-is-best/
Share on other sites

A good cheap way to have a tighter diff is retain the stock LSD, but 'shim' it up. By adding extra preload shims (which are around $10 each), the diff will be a lot tighter.

From factory you are supposed to have two 0.80mm shims inside the diff centre. So that's a total of 1.60mm of preload.

You can use this guide here to show exactly how to shim your diff.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...l=shimming+diff

There's a lot of discussion on what shims should be used, I ended up buying the shims from my local Nissan dealer. I ended up having 2.45mm of preload. It skipped the inside wheel pretty bad for about a week and then it loosened up just a tad. Still feels very firm is very predictable when driving or drifting.

Just have a read of that tutorial link and it may give you some ideas.

-Jimmy.

Edited by -Jimmy-
  • 3 weeks later...
I have a Nismo GT Pro 2-way.. harsh, clunky, noisy, super predictable. I love it :D

It's not for everyone though.

got the same one. I love it!! Even though people ask if my car is broken all the time when they hear it haha

got the same one. I love it!! Even though people ask if my car is broken all the time when they hear it haha

Do you get mothers clutching their babies when you drive through carparks? lol

But yes, if you buy an aftermarket LSD, you just get the centre (my Nismo 2-way actually came with new halfshaft flanges, crown wheel bolts, gasket and some Nismo oil).

Because I was changing ratios when I put mine in, I sourced an S13 auto complete diff (in housing) and dropped that off along with my new centre to my diff guy. I then swapped the housing myself up at the workshop (so I still have my stock 4.3:1 geared diff/housing at home if needed in the future).

Edited by bubba
I have a Nismo GT Pro 2-way.. harsh, clunky, noisy, super predictable. I love it :cool:

It's not for everyone though.

I just fitted the Nismo GT Pro TT 1.5 way.

Clunky, yes but only when cold and at slow speeds around corners.

Wouldn't call it harsh, but certainly bites. I've left it on middle initial torque setting but probably should have turned it down to low for the break in.

Good thing about having an adjustable spring is, once the plates are worn , just crank up the spring a notch and off you go. Expect longer life out of it. Not many diffs have this feature.

After it's properly bed in, it's best to adjust the torque setting to suit your car and driving style.

Can't compare the difference between the viscous stock and this.

You just have a feeling of complete control as the car feels so tight.

Way more grip around corners even when wet, which surprised me. The car seems to track differently but seems to point exactly where you want it to.

Today on a quiet road, rolling slow, put it in 2nd, pressed in the clutch, booted it, dropped the clutch and she just kept straight until I ran out of road. Just a smooth wheel spin with no shudder. Could have let go of the wheel, but not very wise.

As bubba says 'super predictable'.

Absolutely love it. :D

as Jimmy said, if u swing a spaner. just drop the diff and shim it, i did it to the R200 i had in my Sil drift car, i put to of the biggest shims nissan sell in it. Made it a locker basicly. after 2 drift nights, it was free enough to not skip the inside wheel when driving round the pits at the track.

its the cheapest way out, if you want top shelf hear and to spend some cash... than go the nismo!

I got a tomei Trax advance. 2 way LSD

cluncks, chatters and likes to chew up rubber in tight corners. Not so good in carparks either, sreeches wheels and carries on. Can also be a bit of a handful in the wet too if your not on the ball, especially when boost comes in.

Bloody brilliant though, incredibly predictable and the grip is amazing!!! The difference between the stock VLSD and a proper 2 way is just huge! The predictability and grip is ten fold as good.

Its not for everyone and unless your prepared to put up with the harshness of a proper mech diff, dont get one.

Get a GTR diff. thats mech 2 way too, re-shim it with some smaller shims so as it doesnt feel "locked" and doesn't bite as hard. Best and cheapest option for a streeter id say. Bear in mind the gearing is different so the speedo will be out.

Can ask though, what are the reasons for wanting upgrade the diff? Does the car see much trackwork? Drift? etc.

I got a tomei Trax advance. 2 way LSD

cluncks, chatters and likes to chew up rubber in tight corners. Not so good in carparks either, sreeches wheels and carries on. Can also be a bit of a handful in the wet too if your not on the ball, especially when boost comes in.

Bloody brilliant though, incredibly predictable and the grip is amazing!!! The difference between the stock VLSD and a proper 2 way is just huge! The predictability and grip is ten fold as good.

Its not for everyone and unless your prepared to put up with the harshness of a proper mech diff, dont get one.

Get a GTR diff. thats mech 2 way too, re-shim it with some smaller shims so as it doesnt feel "locked" and doesn't bite as hard. Best and cheapest option for a streeter id say. Bear in mind the gearing is different so the speedo will be out.

Can ask though, what are the reasons for wanting upgrade the diff? Does the car see much trackwork? Drift? etc.

One good reason for an upgrade is mine:

The stock viscous in the GTS-T isn't designed to cope with high horsepower, never mind the torque of the 3.0.

I was sideways more times than I can remember and it really gave me the sh>&%$.

Sometimes it would hold but the wheels would shudder on launch, other times the ass would flick out like a bitch. Happened really bad once at Oran Park, felt like i was going to flip over.

Having that unpredictability in the back of your head with 337 rwkw defeated the purpose of building the car.

GTR diffs are certainly a good option, however don't you have to replace the rear axles and wheel hubs to GTR also?

That'll all add up.

Got a GTR rear put in mine, yes the axles and half shafts need to be replaced, I got the whole rear replaced, was tightened up a bit but as it doubles as a streeter I didn't want it to tight, much better feel on the track with no spinning one wheel coming out of corners and very drivable on the street.

Cost around $1500 for the supply and install.

how long would you expect a shimed diff do last,

ive been told that if you change all the plates to nismo ones that it will take what ever you do to it.

i dont know if this is true or not the cost is $850 diff out, new plates, diff in drive away

yes or no

I cannot answer how longer re-shimming would last but the larger axles and shafts means they are not going to break to easy, GTR shafts look much stronger than the GTS-T ones that came out, so the extra supporting mods was why I went the whole diff swap as apposed to just the center.

Anyone got some info on this, circuit, drag stuff with grip tyres, see what happens when they are being used in high load applications.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All of those are near new/brand new/done under 10,000km! This means something! It also doesn't necessarily mean anything.... The idea is of course to fit wider tyres and rims, and to go with engine head updates, I'm sure it will be faster the subsequent time out. But TBH the difference will largely be in driver mod between one day and the next I'm sure. To say I am unseasoned after many years away from even driving remotely fast is an understatement. Giving it half throttle and "Whoa, that's a bit excessive.." and realizing I'm doing 80kmh in a 100 zone is evidence enough lol. I have noticed that there is heat haze/steam/air/something absolutely steaming out of the car after parking it. I didn't drive it in the 40C day for testing yesterday, but on Christmas day it was ~32 and you could literally see the air coming out from the bay after parking the car. Whether that's enough though..   
    • I'll take clutch for 50 Eddie.
    • Standard GTRs are boring and there plenty of them, do what ever you want to it and just remember nothing about them is cheap anymore and if you’re picky about how you want things done it gets even worse.    if it’s an n1 or something very limited then maybe care more about it’s heritage 
    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
×
×
  • Create New...