Jump to content
SAU Community

Acpt Carbon Drive Shaft Problems.

SkylineSky
 Share

Recommended Posts

SkylineSky Rising Star

SkylineSky

Posted
Posted

Hello Everyone,

just thought I would share my experience with ACPT carbon tail shaft. I see there is a Thread that goes way back about them as well. I bought a High HP one from them in December, was in the car a GTR R34 for 2 weeks then is sheared of at the yoke... I rang them they supplied another one, put it into the car and the balance was that bad I couldn't drive the car... I have since spent another $700 to get it balanced, the front uni was in back to front, the weights were out that much it was a joke. It was suppose to be Dynamically balanced in the good old US.

I rang them and spoke to them about it and they didnt want to know about it... If I have more trouble it will go into making stubbie coolers...

My recommendation is never buy one of ACPT drive shafts, If I had of known before I would have bought the PST carbon shaft, they are a lot better...

Dont not get one...

Regards Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314553-acpt-carbon-drive-shaft-problems/
Share on other sites
elrodeo666 Mentor

elrodeo666

Posted
Posted

Did anyone get there shaft in and have no drama.

Mines sitting in storage shed in Japan as havent decided what to do with it.

Thought I'd put it on Yahoo japan as a giant dildo

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted
Did anyone get there shaft in and have no drama.

Mines sitting in storage shed in Japan as havent decided what to do with it.

Thought I'd put it on Yahoo japan as a giant dildo

Atleast someone would get some enjoyment out of it. All its caused is headaches for me! haha

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
sr_ceffy Apprentice

sr_ceffy

Posted
Posted

ithought it had been proven many times before that carbon shafts are unreliable and break more often than the factory items nearly all the fastest gtrs in aus run factory shafts what a waste of huge amounts of money better spent elsewhere

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      V36 wreck (edited from V37 by mod)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.
    • MBS206
      V36 wreck (edited from V37 by mod)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • MBS206
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • MBS206
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • dbm7
      Shifting questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
×
×
  • Create New...