Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All

Unfortunaelty for me, due to recently purchsing a house, it has come time for me to give up my Skyline. I've owned this car for 2.5 years and i have to say it has been the most reliable car i have ever owned, i service the car every 5000k's religiously (Oil and filter) and maintain everything else as it should be: Timing belt, tensioner/idler, cam seals, crank seals, water pump @ 175,000, Gearbox oil every 15,000, diff oil done recently.

This car is daily driven and i do close on 1000k's per fortnight driving it, hence the body has some wear and tear: Door got opened on the front right quarter panel, slight dent. Rear right hand side, dent from inside of boot, right at the top of the rear pod, paint chipped off (bout 5c piece size). And only last week - rear left hand side bumper, looks like someone hit it reversing out of a park :D , slight dent to rear quarter, nice scrape mark (mostly polished out) and the rear bar is slightly cracked (bout 3cm long). Front bar, lower section where intercooler pipe goes, scrape marks from high parking cerb, slightly touched it. Paint on roof drivers side starting to fade in small sections, some clear coat peeling. I can provide anyone with photo's of these imperfections if they would like to see it.

Apart from that though the car feels in good mechanical condition, engine feels strong still, idles fine, pulls really well. The aim with the mods was to be a fast, responsive street car. Handles very well and the suspension is not uncomfortable for daily use, not to hard but not to soft.

Would suit someone into 'spirited drives' so to speak :) or someone looking for a drifter to add a few things to and go for broke on the track.

- 1993 Nissan R33 Skyline GTS25T

- Wine Red

- Usual nissan electrics, retracting mirrors/aerial are not working

- Stardard body kit all round (yes it still has the standard rear spoiler)

- 193,000k's

Modifications:

Engine:

- Power FC w/hand controller with Apex'i boost control kit

- Genuine Hybrid FMIC 600x300x100

- HKS Drag Air Filter

- Trust 3" Turbo back exhaust (nice and quiet, doesn't drone)

- Last dyno made 189RWKW on 12psi (0.85 bar)

Suspension:

- Front: Tanabe Sustec Shocks with RSR Springs. Rear: Nismo 4-way adjustable shocks with RSR springs

- Cusco Adjustable Castor rods

- Unknown brand upgraded front sway bar

- Nismo front strut brace, cusco rear

Wheels/Driveline/Brakes:

- 17" Work S2R's, 9" rear with 255/50 and 8" front with 235/45 (rims have a few gouges)

- Nismo solid gearbox mount

- Front: DBA 4000 Series Slotted and Cross drilled rotors with Intima Street/Race pads, standard disc's rear with Lucas pads

- Extreme XHD Organic Plate Clucth (done prob 10,000k's)

Interior:

- Drivers side Recaro bucket seat (rips in the usual places)

- Pioneer CD/MP3 player with 6 stacker in boot

- Pioneer 6-inch splits front, VDO 3-ways at the rear (cranks plenty loud enough)

- Nismo Gear Knob

- New gear stick and handbrake gaitors

Car is booked in next week to get a brand new full set of tyres (Nankangs) so buyer will not have to worry about tyres for a while to come yet.

$11,000 but very willing to negotiate for a quick sale, no stupid offers and if i was looking for a trade of any sort it wold be a very late 90's or early 00's Pulsar, manual hatchback or a corolla of similar specs, but no silvia's, 180s (already got one) or other turbo cars. Basically anything Jap built that doesn't chew fuel, plus depending on age of car and condition, cash my way.

Feel free to contact me if your interested : Adam 0437 247 735

Some Photo's:

Skyline1.jpg

Skyline2.jpg

Skyline3.jpg

Skyline4.jpg

Skyline5.jpg

whole.jpg

stopper.jpg

Will have some more photo's up tommorrow of interior etc or PM me for a specific shot or any questions also.

Thanks for looking!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314626-1993-nissan-r33-skyline-gtst/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...