Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ill definelty try that, i was playing around with different settings but i dont think i used that one will post up pics when i try it :)

Hmm, the Exif data says that the flash was fired for that first shot.

If you're using Firefox, try this program and take notes of what settings people are using for various photos: https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/5673. It doesn't work on all photos, but it should help you out.

  • Replies 200
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The last shot is great. Would love to see a bigger pic of it.

Agree with Sid - would love to see bigger versions.

CPL you say? Gotta check that out, being car obsessed and all.

CPL = Circular Polarising Filter

And I can't comment if it would actually make car shots better

IMO awesome car shots DO have reflections.

Trick is to not have crappy stuff IN the reflections lol

Facebook l Redbubble l Twitter l

© Copyright All rights reserved Aaron Radford 2010

Here is a Larger version

Strobist Setup

Canon 430exII @ 1/2 power on light stand approx 6ft camera right shooting down onto models back.

Flying_Low_by_aaron_r_photography.jpg

Erm... CPL DOES cut out the reflections.

As you rotate it lets in light from different angles, so you can twist to let some reflections in, and glare out, or twist to remove reflections and let glare in. It Imagine all the light coming to you is made up of 3 sine waves moving sideways like slinkys. one is horizontal, one is vertical, one is 45" between. The CPL removes the light from ONE of these directions, changing as you rotate it. Wow I sound like professor frink! WHOOO HAveNNNNNN and the MOnkeys!!!

\ |

\ |

--------

| \

| \

I'll post up an example when i get home. I have a few test shots from the same angle to show the difference. :/

This is how you can imagine it works - look at the second picture here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polarizer

Basically lots of light coming from all directions - CPL cuts it out and only lets light from a certain direction come through. Rotating it changes this direction.

(direction might not be the best word here but you get the idea)

Back in April 2008 when I bought my first CPL I got it for better colours and cool looking sky's

Here are four sample pics I took (None of them have any PP done)

1_before.jpg1_after.jpg

2_before.jpg2_after.jpg

well the way I thought it worked was as glare being diffracted light and reflections being reflected light, and a polarizer will only permit light in one plane to enter the lens. So my assumption is that a CPL will remove glare, but will only remove the intensity of a reflection, but not completely.

if your polariser is letting in the reflection of a hot chick next to the car, that's a good reflection.

if your polariser is letting in the refection of extra light from the sun you don't want, that's glare!

You know what i mean anwyay :)

You need a little more exposure and post processing on that one. You didn't get anything but the highlights on the car. You're having trouble adjusting for brights to darks.

Try and equal your shot out by the EV reading on the camera compare night and point it at the car and see what the white equals and adjust for the best of both which should be in the middle of both.

Does that make sense to you?

EDIT

Looks like you shot in Auto mode as well, you need to shoot in M (manual) mode and mess around with your EV and Aperture. There are some nice guides here on the forums in this section. As well, you should never let your camera get to 1600 ISO unless it is something you just can not capture any other way. Get grain real bad at those levels.

Edited by AKW

Not sure what Ev is either, but on my Cannon (unsure about Nikons) Tv is Time Variable, meaning you can put it on a tripod and use a longer exposure. Also, try adjusting the white balance to get the colours right.

Btw, your car looks great now. Maybe some clear indicators and some work Meisters would look AWESOME on that thing! Possibly a front mount as well :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...