April Photo Thread

[NA_Goodness]

Lol, TV is television On my camera Tv does the same as Ev. Different manufactures do different things

[MissR34]

Not sure what Ev is either, but on my Cannon (unsure about Nikons) Tv is Time Variable, meaning you can put it on a tripod and use a longer exposure. Also, try adjusting the white balance to get the colours right.

Btw, your car looks great now. Maybe some clear indicators and some work Meisters would look AWESOME on that thing! Possibly a front mount as well

not a huge fan of the clear indicators, so i went with a light shade of VHT night shades over the orange ones, i love muh rims and the front mount will come when i supercharge her lol

[NA_Goodness]

Lol, each to their own. Still one of Oz's best looking NA 34s

[MissR34]

thanks

[ZENNON]

Looks like you shot in Auto mode as well, you need to shoot in M (manual) mode and mess around with your EV and Aperture. There are some nice guides here on the forums in this section. As well, you should never let your camera get to 1600 ISO unless it is something you just can not capture any other way. Get grain real bad at those levels.

Agreed - don't be scared of manual.

Put it in manual and have a play around! (try focusing on the part of the car that is closest)

Try this as a starting point maybe

aperture - f/8

exposure - 10secs

sensor - ISO 100

then adjust exposure up and down as you need to.

if its too bright that's easy just make exposure shorter.

if its too dark make it longer.

if you get to 30secs and don't want to use bulb and its still too dark

open lens a more (will loose DoF though) eg f/8, f/5.6, f/4 etc

if you cant get enough light when lens is wide open(ie f/2.8) or you dont want to lose any more DoF

then start bumping up ISO one step at a time

eg ISO200 ISO400 etc

[MaTBoY]

Take Zenon's advice. Try to keep your camera on manual mode for a few weeks and force yourself to get used to it. After a little while things make sense and you find out it wasn't as daunting as first thought. Use your light meter to tell you if your close to the right level for exposure. Once you've found the levels you want go crazy making different adjustments to see what effects you get.

Your pics are always framed really nicely. You'll have it all worked out in no time

What camera are you using?

[ZENNON]

I normally only use Manual mode at night time. For normal everyday stuff I use Aperture Priority mode

[AKW]

Agreed - don't be scared of manual.

Put it in manual and have a play around! (try focusing on the part of the car that is closest)

Try this as a starting point maybe

aperture - f/8

exposure - 10secs

sensor - ISO 100

then adjust exposure up and down as you need to.

if its too bright that's easy just make exposure shorter.

if its too dark make it longer.

if you get to 30secs and don't want to use bulb and its still too dark

open lens a more (will loose DoF though) eg f/8, f/5.6, f/4 etc

if you cant get enough light when lens is wide open(ie f/2.8) or you dont want to lose any more DoF

then start bumping up ISO one step at a time

eg ISO200 ISO400 etc

Same and thanks. But on another note you can use the Exposure and flash compensation that is built into most cameras. Look for that before you go and lose your DoF. Take that advise from me and Zennon and run, it will help you out with night shots a whole lot. Also, you might not notice Noise with your camera on ISO levels that are high but once you start doing post processing on them you will bring it all to life. ISO is a trained camera man/woman's last fall upon.

You can adjust so much more... white levels, exposure, aperture, exposure comp, flash comp. The last thing you fall on is ISO in my book. =) Hope that helps

I normally only use Manual mode at night time. For normal everyday stuff I use Aperture Priority mode

Same. The camera can judge light variables very well during the day but aperture is DoF and is user based opinion per shot. So you should look at that, and again look on the stickies etc, there are some good tutorials.

Edited May 4, 2010 by AKW

[r33madd]

The camera can judge light variables very well during the day but aperture is DoF and is user based opinion per shot. So you should look at that, and again look on the stickies etc, there are some good tutorials.

This is not entirely true. Most cameras struggle to judge light the built in light meter is only guide and shouldn’t be relied on the histogram is much more accurate.

This is why even in the basic function such at TV and AV you still have control over exposure compensation,

Common problem is when there is too much white in the frame such as wedding you may need to dial in from 1 to 2 stops of overexposure so the wedding dress comes out white and not a dull grey,

Also the reason we need or should use some kind of ND grad filter to stop our sky from blowing out leaving us with a white sky.

And yes aperture has a part to play with DOF but I wouldn’t say aperture is DOF as it has a lot of variables such as subject to background distance and also the lens zoom. For e.g. the same shot taken with a 200mm @ 2.8 with have a much shallower DOF than a 50mm @ 2.8 as long as the subject to background distance stays the same for both shots.

[ZENNON]

AKW you know white balance doesn't really matter when shooting raw right?

And yes aperture has a part to play with DOF but I wouldn’t say aperture is DOF as it has a lot of variables such as subject to background distance and also the lens zoom. For e.g. the same shot taken with a 200mm @ 2.8 with have a much shallower DOF than a 50mm @ 2.8 as long as the subject to background distance stays the same for both shots.

"A part to play" lol

For a given lens (since you will be taking the shot with a given lens),

and at a given zoom (since you would have framed your shot)

aperture will have a direct affect on how much of the car is in focus

Not sure why you are trying to play down how much aperture affects Depth of Field...

all that fluff about different lenses having different DoF is true but why try and confuse the girl?

(And yeah having the background further away will make it look blurrier - the futher you are away from the DOF the more OOF it will be - but its still the aperture that controls how big the DOF is!)

[r33madd]

"A part to play" lol

For a given lens (since you will be taking the shot with a given lens),

and at a given zoom (since you would have framed your shot)

aperture will have a direct affect on how much of the car is in focus

Not sure why you are trying to play down how much aperture affects Depth of Field...

all that fluff about different lenses having different DoF is true but why try and confuse the girl?

(And yeah having the background further away will make it look blurrier - the futher you are away from the DOF the more OOF it will be - but its still the aperture that controls how big the DOF is!)

By no means am i trying to play down that Apeture affects DOF im stating that there is more factors that affect DOF.

Even at F11 you can get a pretty shellow dof depending on where your are in relation to the subject and where the subject is in relation to the background.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field

"The DOF is determined by the camera-to-subject distance, the lens focal length, the lens f-number, and the format size or circle of confusion criterion."

[ZENNON]

By no means am i trying to play down that Apeture affects DOF im stating that there is more factors that affect DOF.

Even at F11 you can get a pretty shellow dof depending on where your are in relation to the subject and where the subject is in relation to the background.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field

"The DOF is determined by the camera-to-subject distance, the lens focal length, the lens f-number, and the format size or circle of confusion criterion."

Camera-to-subject distance affects DoF, but do you change you change your camera-to-subject distance so you can get a different DoF? Not me.

Focal length affects DoF, but do you change you change your Focal length so you can get a different DoF? Not me.

Format size affects DoF, but do you change you change your Format size so you can get a different DoF? Not me!!!

Circle of confusion affects DoF, but do you change you change your circle of confusion so you can get a different DoF? Not me!

Aperture affects DoF, but do you change you change your aperture so you can get a different DoF? YES YES YES

Have you EVER changed ANY of those factors (except for aperture) just so you could change the DoF?

[r33madd]

Camera-to-subject distance affects DoF, but do you change you change your camera-to-subject distance so you can get a different DoF? Not me.

Focal length affects DoF, but do you change you change your Focal length so you can get a different DoF? Not me.

Format size affects DoF, but do you change you change your Format size so you can get a different DoF? Not me!!!

Circle of confusion affects DoF, but do you change you change your circle of confusion so you can get a different DoF? Not me!

Aperture affects DoF, but do you change you change your aperture so you can get a different DoF? YES YES YES

Have you EVER changed ANY of those factors (except for aperture) just so you could change the DoF?

YES I DO !!

When I shoot out door portraiture with clients that I want to stand out from the surrounding by producing a shallow DOF I will almost always be shooting with a focal length of 135-200mm being as close as I can to the subject to get the desired composition as well as positioning the client away from the background I wish to Blur out as well as setting my aperture anywhere between f2.8 – f8.

The point is all of these things equate to a shallow or deep depth of field I’m not saying your incorrect so don’t stress all I’m saying is there is more factors to consider.

So yes in the very Basic form of photography aperture helps control DOF but I don’t agree the statement that “Aperture is DOF”

But like you said you don’t do any of those things apart from changing aperture hey that’s fine and that’s how you work we all have different ideas when it comes to photography

[ZENNON]

YES I DO !!

When I shoot out door portraiture with clients that I want to stand out from the surrounding by producing a shallow DOF I will almost always be shooting with a focal length of 135-200mm being as close as I can to the subject to get the desired composition as well as positioning the client away from the background I wish to Blur out as well as setting my aperture anywhere between f2.8 – f8.

The point is all of these things equate to a shallow or deep depth of field I’m not saying your incorrect so don’t stress all I’m saying is there is more factors to consider.

So yes in the very Basic form of photography aperture helps control DOF but I don’t agree the statement that “Aperture is DOF”

But like you said you don’t do any of those things apart from changing aperture hey that’s fine and that’s how you work we all have different ideas when it comes to photography

I never said "Aperture is DOF" did I?

On a friendlier note - you ever tried a Brenizer pano?

Checkout this DoF!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zennondamant/...896192/sizes/o/

[MaTBoY]

ahhh talking about pano's.

This isn't a pano, just a pic I cropped (obviously).

Like it? Hate it? What could make it better? What works for it?

I've tried to do a couple of these and I usually end up with a pic I don't mind... but sort of lacks something... Ideas photo gurus?

[ZENNON]

What's the original like Matt? I think it might look better if you go up a bit more. The car feels a little squashed IMO

ps more details about when/where/what pls

[MaTBoY]

I'll post up the original later on at lunch, or when i'm back home.

this pic was taken at the historic race meet held at eastern creek last week.

you're looking at alan jone's old f1 car from the early 80's. (not sure of what year)

cheers

[ZENNON]

How cool!!

[altflood3r]

bombed evo on first page

[ZENNON]

bombed evo on first page

Is that a good thing or a bad thing?