Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

im wanting to replace my old sparks on my r33 gtst series 1. Atm the car only has a pod filter and a cat back exhaust. However next week shes booked in getting a full turbo back, i should have a front mount next week too. Im also trying to find an EBC around the place so i can run 10-11psi.

I wonna buy iridiums, so any advice would be good. Im pretty much just not sure what gap size i need for those kind of mods.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314638-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

Go with NGK Iridiums / Platinums.

From memory the plugs come pre-gaped, if you ask for specific model of car.

But I would check the gapping no matter what.

From memory, 1.1 gapping is in my head... I could be wrong...

Best check with your mechanic with the gapping size.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314638-spark-plugs/#findComment-5160849
Share on other sites

personally i wouldn't bother with iridiums. in my experience they aren't worth the extra money.

as far as getting the plug gap, they generally come pregapped at 0.8mm unless they have a number after them. so for example BCPR6ES (which is the copper plug most people use) is 0.8mm gap, but the BCPR6ES-11 has a 1.1mm gap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314638-spark-plugs/#findComment-5161296
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...