Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb30det

wal32r

By wal32r,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

naughtyruski Enthusiast

naughtyruski

Posted
Posted
Hi guys if you hear of any rb30 blocks or rb25de or rb25det heads for sale around town could you please let me know. Dont mind what level of assembly the block is as i will be sourcing my own pistons and rods, would be good if it has a crank, as for the head, the more assembled it is the better it is.

thanks

I've just started the same project haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5255905
Share on other sites
naughtyruski Enthusiast

naughtyruski

Posted
Posted
Sweet, joint thread? Lol

Yeah mate. I am still trying to source the right block. I want the rb30 series 2 block of course. Had a few ridiculous offers from some wreckers. So basically we are both after an rb30 bottom end.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256077
Share on other sites
naughtyruski Enthusiast

naughtyruski

Posted
Posted
what were the wreckers after for them? whats your price range? ill see what i can do. is it just the block or with pistons, rods and crank? with head? or going 25?

I just want a complete rb30 s2 bottom end. I already have an Rb25det head on my car that I will use.

I got figures of 500-600 from some wreckers down Queanbeyan way.

I understand the going rate for such an engine should be not alot more than $100-150 based on what other people i know have paid for same engine type

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256236
Share on other sites
RB ONEVIA Collaborator

RB ONEVIA

Posted
Posted

SII has the holes for oil and water for turbo whereas SI have to be drilled. that is all.

i have heard prices as low a $50 for just a bare block. also if you can get a RB25 VCT head that would be best. RB26 head is a bit of work to fit. but is superior.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256286
Share on other sites
naughtyruski Enthusiast

naughtyruski

Posted
Posted
SII has the holes for oil and water for turbo whereas SI have to be drilled. that is all.

i have heard prices as low a $50 for just a bare block. also if you can get a RB25 VCT head that would be best. RB26 head is a bit of work to fit. but is superior.

Yeah they go pretty cheap so I am not spending more than i have to on the stock motor. I will go all out on the upgrades. I just need a half decent motor to strip and go from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256293
Share on other sites
StinkyPoo Mentor

StinkyPoo

Posted
Posted

All RB30's out of R31's are Series 2, the just have holes for Oil/water as RB ONEVIA said. Only the VL had Series 1 RB30's.

I haven't seen any RB30 block that has been broken, ever.

And, I've still got a free RB30 bottom end. I have no idea what condition it is in, I just wanted to get rid of it so it's been sitting outside for a little while now.

Also, I haven't been looking but R31's/RB30's don't seem to be appearing forsale as commonly as they used too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256398
Share on other sites
naughtyruski Enthusiast

naughtyruski

Posted
Posted
All RB30's out of R31's are Series 2, the just have holes for Oil/water as RB ONEVIA said. Only the VL had Series 1 RB30's.

I haven't seen any RB30 block that has been broken, ever.

And, I've still got a free RB30 bottom end. I have no idea what condition it is in, I just wanted to get rid of it so it's been sitting outside for a little while now.

Also, I haven't been looking but R31's/RB30's don't seem to be appearing forsale as commonly as they used too.

Outside ay, so pretty high chances that its rusted through.. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256413
Share on other sites
RB ONEVIA Collaborator

RB ONEVIA

Posted
Posted
All RB30's out of R31's are Series 2, the just have holes for Oil/water as RB ONEVIA said. Only the VL had Series 1 RB30's.

R31s started and finished a year before VLs so i dont understand why they all had SII blocks.

And also, with the s1 block, do they still have the flat surface where the threads usually are for the oil and water lines? Or are they from a completely different cast?

no idea on that. as far as i know the only difference are the holes for the turbo lines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256444
Share on other sites
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

That looks like the Lewis engines one, Go see Greg at pro engines, he can get cranks from melbourne, If not i have a crank that might be usable (note the might part)

A collar is a good idea as the 30 cranks only drive about 3mm of the pump gear and are prone the breaking the pumps,

Once again Greg can do that for around 350 fitted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5257053
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • drifter17a
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
    • drifter17a
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By drifter17a · Posted

      So unsafe would you say now?   little bit of has come off, guess road salt is a nightmare for Japanese car. Mx5 here have a well known issue or rotting 
    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
×
×
  • Create New...