Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys :D

Been looking at sound systems, and was given a quote for the following, about $2900 all up, please, tear it apart, chew it up and if you feel like spew it back out, or the other way even..

Pioneer DEHP8100BT - Deck

Kicker KS60.2 - Splits (it may be K560.2, depends on if his writing is sloppy or I may be blind)

Kicker ZX200.2 - Two channel Amp

JL W3 12" 500wrms in custom box - sub

JL Slash 500wrms - Mono Amp

Kicker 8 ga and 4ga wiring kits

And last but not least, sound deadener for the doors.

Please let me know if the system is decent, shite, amazing or if you would swap something in for another.

Regards

Karl

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/
Share on other sites

Yeah it is a JB kit, which doesn't neccesarily mean it sucks nuts:P

The install is ahome job with a few mates, one of whom may know a thing or two about installs, think he does em for a living or summink

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5162413
Share on other sites

ok aslong as the deadening is done properly and the gains set correctly I do not see an issue. if you make a false wall you can put all the gear in it (this is the panel in the rear boot that I am talking about.) cabling may be a bit of overkill since the battery is in the boot anyway. one thing- new battery if you have not already done so.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5162570
Share on other sites

Haven't got a new battery yet. What would you recommend? Does the above equipment seem alright? Would you replace any of it with something else?

Sorry for all the questions, I'd like to get it all hammered down before I got spend moneys.

Regards

Karl

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5162672
Share on other sites

Install it all your self. And you can get the same sound for alot less money.

Rip off door panels and install deadener you self pretty easy to do.

Install splits while your at it. You will need some mdf to make some spacers/panels for the front speakers.

Do the same for the parcel shelf. Get a 100wrmsx4 amp to run all the speakers.

Then just install off the shelf subs/sub box with a 500wrms amp.

Few $100 in installation parts + cost of stereo.

Did door panels with a mate a few weeks ago, alittle time consuming but pretty easy to do

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5167538
Share on other sites

You will need to look at the harmonic distortion ratio of the Amplifier , that can determine alot of difference in the clarity of sound. for instance mine is 0.0016 most amplifiers are 0.1% monoblocks 0.2% ( doesnt matter much for subs) you will also need to look at the voltage pre amp output. so you can dial out interference on the amplifier and also get a clearer sound. I use a line Driver so I get a 8 volt output however most headunit only have like a 2 or 3v output. You will also need to look into the frequency range of your speakers and sub etc

My preference would be

Clarion Headunit (great value for money) ~250$ for aux in/usb/ipod

Blaupunkt ODC6.5 (excelent splits sound really really good!!silk dome tweeter, adjustable crossover) ~$200 if you can find them(discontinued)

Blaupunkt GTA280 (great sounding amp, decent RMS output, good harmonic distortion rate and gold terminals etc)suits the speakers really well also (`220$ I think??)

Aepro 4Ga Wiring kit(OFC cables decent RCAs splitloom,remote on etc etc) `80$

Aepro 4Ga splitter (25$)

Aepro ground loop isolater (10$) get rid of some interferance

Earthquake DBXII 12 inch sub, (dual voice coil, LOTS of excursion,good at low frequencies etc)excelent value for money!! I think ours go for under 300$ :s cant remember.

DNA Ported box similar to EQ subs requirements (~80$)

may I ask why not rear speakers?, will sound much better!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5170902
Share on other sites

the gear selected is a good choice , i personally would change the speakers for JL items also and keep it all the one brand like that , i can say this as i was a caraudio salesman for JB hifi in my region and what you have listed are great items but i like the JL splits and coax better , im not knocking kicker at all but you did ask lol , do you really need a Deck with that many options ?? will you run the ipod and use the blutooth ?? if not drop a few levels but keep the front/rear/sub outputs in whatever deck you go with , i wont comment about the price as i know what the installation prices are and for legal reasons i wont post on here anything like that , PM me if you wanna chat some more about your choices if you think you need to , other wise if your happy to pay what they are asking you will have a nice sounding system specially with the deadening for the doors ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5173713
Share on other sites

Hey guys sorry for the late replies, been afk from the net for a bit.

I got my new kit and got most of it set up, aside from the splits. I did change the setup a lil bit..

Pioneer heady, cant remember which one.. 2 rca preouts, no bluetooth or anythin silly and front USB

JL splits, the nice 75WRMS ones, they is hot

JL amps, mono and two chan - shiny

and a JL W3 sub - this thing KICKS.

No rear speakers as the GTR boot is very very well shut off from the rest of the car, it allows more airflow. Though I haven't taken them out yet, been lazy, and the parcel shelf shakes, along with most everything else. So I know what I'm doing this weekend :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5180231
Share on other sites

You will need to look at the harmonic distortion ratio of the Amplifier , that can determine alot of difference in the clarity of sound. for instance mine is 0.0016 most amplifiers are 0.1% monoblocks 0.2% ( doesnt matter much for subs) you will also need to look at the voltage pre amp output. so you can dial out interference on the amplifier and also get a clearer sound. I use a line Driver so I get a 8 volt output however most headunit only have like a 2 or 3v output. You will also need to look into the frequency range of your speakers and sub etc

My preference would be

Clarion Headunit (great value for money) ~250$ for aux in/usb/ipod

Blaupunkt ODC6.5 (excelent splits sound really really good!!silk dome tweeter, adjustable crossover) ~$200 if you can find them(discontinued)

Blaupunkt GTA280 (great sounding amp, decent RMS output, good harmonic distortion rate and gold terminals etc)suits the speakers really well also (`220$ I think??)

Aepro 4Ga Wiring kit(OFC cables decent RCAs splitloom,remote on etc etc) `80$

Aepro 4Ga splitter (25$)

Aepro ground loop isolater (10$) get rid of some interferance

Earthquake DBXII 12 inch sub, (dual voice coil, LOTS of excursion,good at low frequencies etc)excelent value for money!! I think ours go for under 300$ :s cant remember.

DNA Ported box similar to EQ subs requirements (~80$)

may I ask why not rear speakers?, will sound much better!

Your not going to be able to tell the difference betweena an amp that is 0.010% and 0.10% harmonic distortion when the cars being driven around lol. Just about every name brand amp being sold now days is way below audible to the average joe so its not even worth concerning yourself over.

EDIT: Obveiously it depends how far you push the amp, the harder you push it the more THD it will produce, Hence why a company will rate there amplifier at say 100wrms at 4 ohms @ 0.010% THD then a max power rating of say 200wrms at 4ohm @ 0.10% THD.

Edited by Jack88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5183129
Share on other sites

You will need to look at the harmonic distortion ratio of the Amplifier , that can determine alot of difference in the clarity of sound. for instance mine is 0.0016 most amplifiers are 0.1% monoblocks 0.2% ( doesnt matter much for subs) you will also need to look at the voltage pre amp output. so you can dial out interference on the amplifier and also get a clearer sound. I use a line Driver so I get a 8 volt output however most headunit only have like a 2 or 3v output. You will also need to look into the frequency range of your speakers and sub etc

My preference would be

Clarion Headunit (great value for money) ~250$ for aux in/usb/ipod

Blaupunkt ODC6.5 (excelent splits sound really really good!!silk dome tweeter, adjustable crossover) ~$200 if you can find them(discontinued)

Blaupunkt GTA280 (great sounding amp, decent RMS output, good harmonic distortion rate and gold terminals etc)suits the speakers really well also (`220$ I think??)

Aepro 4Ga Wiring kit(OFC cables decent RCAs splitloom,remote on etc etc) `80$

Aepro 4Ga splitter (25$)

Aepro ground loop isolater (10$) get rid of some interferance

Earthquake DBXII 12 inch sub, (dual voice coil, LOTS of excursion,good at low frequencies etc)excelent value for money!! I think ours go for under 300$ :s cant remember.

DNA Ported box similar to EQ subs requirements (~80$)

may I ask why not rear speakers?, will sound much better!

NOT required unless you use dodgy radio's or the install/RCA is crap. a properly grounded, installed system never needs this (unless the car charging system is bad)

and you can overdrive the input of some Amps or processors to the point of clipping so check the Amp specs first.

I use a 13 volt line driver on mine but the processor downstream can take it and has clipping lights on it to tune with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5183510
Share on other sites

Saphire:

Despite RCAs being shielded, they can stil intercept inteference.. like a stereo I put in last week, we had no choice to route them past the ecu, so we needed a ground loop isolater just to help with that little bit of interference it was picking up.

besides its not like its an 100$ item, if you can get rid of a little hissing for a measly 10$, why not. I know some people that porpously have the input gain set high and use a loop isolater to dial out interference just to get a clearer sound.

Jack:

I can tell the difference between 0.1%THD and 0.01%THD, but I listen for that as ive been instaling for a few years now. but I agree not many people can. especially the older you get.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5183867
Share on other sites

NOT required unless you use dodgy radio's or the install/RCA is crap. a properly grounded, installed system never needs this (unless the car charging system is bad)

and you can overdrive the input of some Amps or processors to the point of clipping so check the Amp specs first.

I use a 13 volt line driver on mine but the processor downstream can take it and has clipping lights on it to tune with.

+1

(22 yr veteran btw.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5184382
Share on other sites

I have heard/read that rear speakers dont need to be amped because they dont have any improvements for the driver. If you have decent amped front speakers with a sub, your midbass and subbass is already covered without the need for rear speakers.

Rear speakers are just for rear passengers ye?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5186247
Share on other sites

Saphire:

Despite RCAs being shielded, they can stil intercept inteference.. like a stereo I put in last week, we had no choice to route them past the ecu, so we needed a ground loop isolater just to help with that little bit of interference it was picking up.

besides its not like its an 100$ item, if you can get rid of a little hissing for a measly 10$, why not. I know some people that porpously have the input gain set high and use a loop isolater to dial out interference just to get a clearer sound.

Have you ever read

David Navone

or

TermPro

these cover a fair bit on why you don't need that crap, ground isolators are a bandaid to a poor install, sorry

I haven't needed one in over 20 years , enuf said

Jack:

I can tell the difference between 0.1%THD and 0.01%THD, but I listen for that as ive been instaling for a few years now. but I agree not many people can. especially the older you get.

You can hear a difference with the silent garage ,engine off, and the right source material(not some crappy MP3), and kick ass speakers.

but most won't hear the distortion over the wind,engine noise till the voice coils melt and they wonder why the speaker won't play or the amp shuts down to protect itself from a dead short.even made in china amps can be very clean THD but get nasty harmonics when pushed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5186353
Share on other sites

You can hear a difference with the silent garage ,engine off, and the right source material(not some crappy MP3), and kick ass speakers.

but most won't hear the distortion over the wind,engine noise till the voice coils melt and they wonder why the speaker won't play or the amp shuts down to protect itself from a dead short.even made in china amps can be very clean THD but get nasty harmonics when pushed

Yeah your totaly right!, I have to admit im a bit too anal about sound quality than most.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5186722
Share on other sites

nice to hear you switched your choice to the jl's im assuming being the 75rms ones you went with the C5's , they are crystal clear and sound fantastic , and nice choice to keep the amps jl also ... aslong as your happy with the setup you will have many hours of happy listening , hope all goes well with the setup and may you have many hours of listening pleasure in your car ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314798-please-critique/#findComment-5198514
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...