Rb Wont Start With Haltech For Some Reason

[stricnynel0s]

i have the new haltech wideband. i checked the tps and the way its made it can only go on one way. its weird, like i said i opened throttle and did set voltage to make it like lets sat 4v at 100% and i closed it and did a set throttle for 0% and it was 0 volts. seems like and voltage adsjustment i make forces it to be seen as 100%

[stricnynel0s]

i have the new haltech wideband sensor, the sensor also will only go on one way. its weird. i did a calibration for it yet it still reads 100% throttle. But it reads the voltages in between. like i opened it all the way and clicked set voltage for 100% than i closed it and did the same thing. it gave me 2 dif votleags liek 4.89 and . 38 but when i in put them it still says 100% and i switch them it still says 100% but when i made them both voltage for when its closed it says its closed now but always stays at 0 % now, at least i can get it started from there and trouble shoot it hopefuly

[stricnynel0s]

ok i havent messed with tps issue, but car starts up but turns off immediately, gunna try playing with throttle and seeing what i can get it doing. also when it goes, it backfires and pops

* ok something weird i noticed. i did the ignition lock, to set timing, to match that but when i look at degrees on crank pulley and whats displayed at ignition base its completely differant

Edited April 6, 2010 by stricnynel0s

[sav man]

have you adjusted the cas so the crank and ecu timing are the same?

is the tps showing 0% when your not touching it?

[stricnynel0s]

yes, i did the ignition lock for 15 and adjusted cas till it was at 15, but my friend heard backfire and popping and thinks its still a timing issue, and the tps shows 0 right now without me touching it. where should the ignition base and advance be on the ecu manager or actually what should they reflect, and is it possible my trigger settings are off ?

[stricnynel0s]

i am about to get ready and give up, i tried everything literally for hours on end, my old engine management works 100% this dosent work at all, there is no shop close to me with experience with the unit without going 120 miles minumum, and i cannot drive it so i am stuck not only paying for tune but liek 300 for the tow. i sold my maf and my old wideband so i cant even hook up my old ecu to get the car running.... at this point i can literally do nothing....

[sav man]

when you got it to run, and you said it was poping backfiring. was there great clouds of black smoke/fuel coming out the back? did you try adjusting the fuel table to get it to idle? you running the aac valvle? And what base map did you use? the RB26 or the RB25 one?

[stricnynel0s]

its a rb26 one, with VE turned on and all values are set to 45% didnt see any smoke, just lots of smoke and i can hear the compression stroke noise, i defintaely thinks its a timing issue, i can make a video and upload it to tonight maybe to show you. it literally turns on and stays on for one second, no amount of throttle or anything will make it stay on, and honestly i gotta open throttle a bit just to get it to do that sometimes. i am running thr aac valve. i didnt think it mattered which base map i used since i wsas doign ve, and i knew rb cas was the same on 20-26 except neo. do you perhaps have a map i could compare it to ? also man i want to thank you man i appreciate the help your giving me i hope we can get it running !!

Edited April 8, 2010 by stricnynel0s

[sav man]

try bumping the fuel % up and down, I grabbed the 45% off a GTR running a platinum pro with VE. but that's only running 440cc injectors.

Also in the software you can load a diagnostics page, which has all the sensors, and the inj ms. (view menu>load page>diagnostics) but this mich only be on the latest version of the software (1.0.7)

you should probably check your plugs, as if it's been over fuelled, they are probably rooted.

Edited April 8, 2010 by sav man

[stricnynel0s]

yeah i changed the plugs and it did make the world of a differance, but still same symptoms, its just sooo annoying cause only haltech gives me these problems

[BH_SLO32]

i have the new haltech wideband sensor, the sensor also will only go on one way. its weird. i did a calibration for it yet it still reads 100% throttle. But it reads the voltages in between. like i opened it all the way and clicked set voltage for 100% than i closed it and did the same thing. it gave me 2 dif votleags liek 4.89 and . 38 but when i in put them it still says 100% and i switch them it still says 100% but when i made them both voltage for when its closed it says its closed now but always stays at 0 % now, at least i can get it started from there and trouble shoot it hopefuly

I had the power and earth wires switched when I wired the TPS up and consequently the TPS signal was reversed as in your case. Swapped them around without any issue. That said my car ran ok just had a nasty deadspot down low until I fixed it.

It sounds like the timing the computer is seeing and the actual timing are quite different. Might explain why it will run initially with timing locked at 15 degs but then stall once the revs increase.

[stricnynel0s]

I had the power and earth wires switched when I wired the TPS up and consequently the TPS signal was reversed as in your case. Swapped them around without any issue. That said my car ran ok just had a nasty deadspot down low until I fixed it.

It sounds like the timing the computer is seeing and the actual timing are quite different. Might explain why it will run initially with timing locked at 15 degs but then stall once the revs increase.

should i just change their pin location than ? there is only 2 wires on a 3 wire plugs used. i havent tried to start it with timing locked at 15, i just did it to set timing, can i try that and lock it at 15 start it ?

[sav man]

yeah i changed the plugs and it did make the world of a differance, but still same symptoms, its just sooo annoying cause only haltech gives me these problems

you tried pull some fuel out of it? Try starting at somthing low like 10% and then try and start it, then keep bumping it up till it states. if changing the plugs made it better, i'd think there is too much fuel.

if your tps is reading 0% the car should still idle

Edited April 8, 2010 by sav man

[stricnynel0s]

ahh ok i will try doing that right now wish me luck llol

[stricnynel0s]

sounds a little better but still wont start still

[sav man]

you using an external map or the internal one? can you pop your latest map up?

[stricnynel0s]

you using an external map or the internal one? can you pop your latest map up?

i am using internal map sensor

and here is my latest map, it dosent have the 10 fuel setting but same map

http://www.mediafire.com/?bzrnxzwmemk

[sav man]

i'll have a good look at it when i get home from work, did you try other values apport from 10%

Do you know the model of the injecters, cause i think the lag time will need to be reset in the Haltech, as they will most likely be diferent to the oem 440cc ones.

[stricnynel0s]

i'll have a good look at it when i get home from work, did you try other values apport from 10%

Do you know the model of the injecters, cause i think the lag time will need to be reset in the Haltech, as they will most likely be diferent to the oem 440cc ones.

rc eng inj, and that was it honestly. i can try more later i was going to try 5 but i dont wanna go lean and make engine go pop lol

[sav man]

try going up from 10 in steps of say 5%, and see if it gets better or worse as you go. If there isn't enough fuel, it just won't start, not going to hurt it