Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb Wont Start With Haltech For Some Reason


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yes, and no it works intermittenly i am looking at the sensor and going to replace it with a new one i bought.

its looking more like a timing issue. i need the correct trigger settings for the RB25

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its metal cover cas with half circle key, i had a spare ( i know these suckers are expensive so i got a spare one cheap) i just installed it. i had someone look at my datalog and they noticed my home count constantly increased, so we are going to look into that, like i said i fixxed tps issue, i had to change the power and ground pins around ( odd i know cause it worked fine on power fc) as car as coolant temp, i am not sure i installed my new one, could the issue be caused by a low coolant lvl ? its weird cause it actually registers correctly some times and other times not at all

Link to comment
Share on other sites

good stuff. what did you have to do to get it going? is it running enough to match the ecu timing to the real timing?

i added shit ton of fuel, car idles at around 5000 rpm and gradualy increases,

http://www.mediafire.com/?emtoy4i2dhj

thats the datalog, its weird as all hell. i made progress but just open larger can of worms it seems. sigh. i am going to see if i can stick some stock injectors in there, cause problem couild be caused by injectors is what people pn haltehc forum think

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hard thing about the injecters is getting the correct dead time map, if the contructer dosn't provide it you have to rely on what you find on google (like i did). Probably should try and set the wideband up, it should have come with a V vs AFR graph to put into the software.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hard thing about the injecters is getting the correct dead time map, if the contructer dosn't provide it you have to rely on what you find on google (like i did). Probably should try and set the wideband up, it should have come with a V vs AFR graph to put into the software.

the info you got was correct i contacted the maker to verify, i was told the 5000rpm idle is caused by vacuum leak but i dont see shit, only thing i can think of is the iac and plumbing for it outside of that, idk i have vacuum hooked up to the niple on wastegate on oem turbo, to fuel pressure reg, to map sensor, to the BOV, and i got one to the pcv hose on top of motor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
    • If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.
×
×
  • Create New...