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Ok people, I'm having these same window & central locking issues with my coupe, the window problem is definitely far more of an issue as they have a complete mind of their own these days, but as stated here in this thread it makes sense to just replace all of it at same time & be done with it, so...

Who has found the best source of the parts for this? Is there stuff from the US? is there anyone or anywhere anyone can suggest to get the stuff cheap as possible so we can go back to spending our money on modding & upgrading instead lol...

Cheers

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For anyone who wants to save themselves a reasonable chunk of johnny cash, has a V35 or 350Z with window issues, & has a moderate hands-on skill set & a few basic tools, I replaced the brushes in the window motor of my V35 on the weekend in just a couple hrs & at the cost of an old second hand nissan fuel pump.

So if you want any more info on how to save approx $500 per door, just ask, cos I did & it works a treat ;)

For anyone who wants to save themselves a reasonable chunk of johnny cash, has a V35 or 350Z with window issues, & has a moderate hands-on skill set & a few basic tools, I replaced the brushes in the window motor of my V35 on the weekend in just a couple hrs & at the cost of an old second hand nissan fuel pump.

So if you want any more info on how to save approx $500 per door, just ask, cos I did & it works a treat ;)

M8 if your method actually works then you have to do a DIY on here and get it stickied. I'm curious to know what part of the fuel pump is interchangeable with the window motor.

Well we did it to the drivers side in my V35 which had windows that were 95% dead & it's now working perfectly...

The fact is, it's the motors that shit themselves yes, but, the actual part of the motor that goes is the brushes... That is something that with a few moderate level mechanical skills, a soldering iron, & the guts to get in & have a crack, pretty much anyone can replace themselves.

No doubt there'd be brushes that you could buy straight off the shelf for something like RC car motors or something similar that'd probably be a direct fit replacement for the window motor brushes but we never got around to taking them somewhere (like Jaycar) to match up. If you did that however it'd make this job even easier again... But failing that, we did find that the brushes out of a standard Nissan R33 (I think) fuel pump required minimal tweaking to fit & do the job perfectly.

Now a stock Nissan fuel pump is the sort of thing most people pretty much throw away when upgrading so you should be able to get one for basically nothing, & if so, then this fix can cost you almost literally NOTHING!

So, although it is much easier to just pay someone anywhere from $1k upwards to supply & fit new motors to your power windows, if you're not heaps keen to spend that kind of mulah on anything other than upgrades then this might be the answer for you :)

I did take a few progress pics along the way but am not sure that they'd quite suffice for an actual DIY so it may have to wait til we do the passenger door in the next few days & I'll try get pics then...

Also, I'm pretty sure that in most of these threads regarding this topic people are claiming around 4 hrs to do the job, (I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure that's what I saw).... I personally can't see how it took that long, if it weren't for the fact we were actually experimenting with what would work, trial & error 3 different sets of brushes etc, then I think it could've been done between 1 & 2 hrs as the actual trim itself is about 34 seconds work, the cover-plate is about 3 mins, another 72 seconds for the window & you're pretty much all apart ready to start goin MacGyver on it's arse!

Hi Guys

Well same thing happened here, driver side had window motor failing and door actuator not working (compare to other guys I also have the passenger actuator not working anymore too!!!!).

In order to save a bit of money on all of this. I decided to get on with the problem myself.

Started with the window motor, opened the cover that contain the brushes. Not such a big trouble after all, by applying pressure on one of the brush a bit further contact was made and window motor was back to life again :)

I have bought a new actuator lock (driver side only for now) replaced it (following that awsome tutorial), took the window of the door frame (did it with a mate and we made sure to mark the washes spot), took "outside handle" out, swap the actuator, put everything back together however at the time when we tried to fit the glass back in the frame using the original spot that we marked earlier on, there would be an 0.5 cm gap with the glass and window seal having the door close. Water could then get in the car. We then had to readjust the glass position. Job was done but not feeling 100% original as passenger door would be.

Every time I would open the door the glass would roll down a centimeter down when the passenger door would not do it so much (still roll down a bit but not at same high!)

once opening the door I could also feel a bit of jiggle with the window in the frame so i had to recheck where was the glass fitting in the frame (these 3 bolts that let you adjust the glass horizontaly to the motor frame).

I could also feel a little bit of movement from the outside door handle when pulling it , it's not much but it's here.

Though I would have a second look at it, so I moved the glass horizontal adjustment in the window frame and when glass is up it touch the arches of the car. So I am going to have to readjust it.

An extra problem came in too: now when I roll the window up, it hits the top and roll down halfway down...Obviously the window motor does not understand where is the end of the glass run...

I had a look at the window reset button, followed procedure from other post on internet and it still doesn't work anymore. Any help on that would be very appreciated.

Cheers.

The window dropping to a halfway point is due to the brushes being f**ked more than anything I think mate, mine was doing it when the brushes were knackered... I'd have to hold the window 'up switch' at the same time as physically pulling the window up to get it up, then I'd shut the car off & as soon as I'd shut the door it'd do it's little self seal thing, freak out & drop to half way... Hasn't done it since replacing brushes.

My opinion would also be that whatever you did with the brushes when you pulled the motor out hasn't worked. The reason these all have this problem is cos for whatever reason the brushes actually wear right out, adjusting or whatever you did won't fix it... The carbon that they're made of is physically worn away & fails to contact most of the time which causes the failure of the window operation. They need to be replaced, anything else will be a very short term 'lucky fix' if at all.

I manage to get it all sorted :). Everything back to the same fit and windows been reset properly.

I did replace actuators both side in 3 hours. I had noticed tho that it was easier to remove windows from the start of the all operation in order to help manipulate the steel layer without touching the window motor.

Taking the window off is a bit scary but does finally help so much for the rest of the job. You don't end up with parts everywhere...

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I replaced my driver's side power window motor by myself when that broke a couple years ago. It took me 4-5 hours and I had used a picture guide I found on another site. This sounds harder though. Not sure if I will attempt it without the pictures.

When i purchased my car the owner told me he replaced the window motor regulator or something.

Here's what happens..

when i shut the passenger side door, the window will adjust itself up a tiny bit. Whereas when i shut the drivers side door it doesn't do this.

Also, the "auto" feature on my drivers side window does not work but the passenger side does work.

Then passenger side window goes up faster than the drivers side, but they both go down at the same speed.

Also having problems with the door lock, most of the time when i have the car locked for 9 or so hours at work when i go to unlock it, it won't open the door. I wait 10 seconds or so, hit unlock again and it will work. BUT not all the time, sometimes i have to physically use the key in the door to get in.

Will cleaning the brushes in the window motor fix the "auto" feature on my drivers side door? or will i need a new window motor?

I need to buy a door lock actuator too i think, seems to be a common problem that they start to fail after a while.

Thanks

replace both the lock and the motor. motor is about ready to fail.

Cheers Chris, will have to do a bit of a run around to get a good price on the door lock. Found a front left & right window motor for $179.

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