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I'm currently going the path of replacing my R33 gearbox with a new R34 unit, and believe these are the parts you need: Item Details Gearbox 32010-AA520 Gearbox Front Cover Assembly (Including Input Shaft Seal, pivot ball) 32110-05U11 Gearbox Front Cover Gasket 32112-05U12 Clutch Release Bearing 30502-69F1A Clutch Release Bearing Carrier 30501-S0284 Clutch Fork (Including Clip) 30531-P0151 Clutch Release Bearing Carrier Clip 30514-14600 Clutch Fork Dust Boot 30542-69F00 Slave cylinder 30620-21U23 BYO push type clutch, tap the gearbox as described above, and change everything out. I've yet to go through the process though, so can't confirm that the information above is 100% correct. Make sure you do your own research to confirm the part numbers. -
I don't know, but I can confirm the paint code shown on your build plate is the external panels; on all R chassis the internal panels including engine bay are similar but not the same as the external paint. You will probably have to get the paint shop to just match what is there as best they can -
anyone want my Q50 Redsport? platinum silver, 38k km comes with a roadworthy and 6 months rego. need to make room for another daily -
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By TurboTapin · Posted
I've been busy doing a lot of little things on the car. I had purchased one of every ball joint, tie rod, etc. for the front to replace everything when I first purchased the car 6 or so years ago. Whatever I hadn't replaced at the time, I decided to do now even if some of the parts still looked fairly good. That came out to the right side kingpin bearings, both tie rod ends and left side lower control arm ball joint. Did another oil change and sent off a sample as well. I've been working on setting up another VSS. The Haltech GPS has been sucking away my soul. The delay is unbearable. I ended up popping off the rear stub ABS rings off some GTR stubs I had laying around and installing those on my stubs. I had to grind every other tooth off so that it met sensor specs (10mm gap between teeth). I made a small bracket that attached it to a diff bolt. I just have to wire it in this week. It was also the first time I've ever pulled off a shrink fit with only a propane torch. Slipped right on with gravity. It's thin enough to get rather toasty. As for why I haven't wired it in yet, I've been waiting for the IC7 firmware update that allows it to be used as I/O. I'm going to toss my I/O Expander and wire it into the IC7... I wanted to get it all done at the same time. Update came out, unfortunately it's rather buggy. I had to turn off I/O Expansion as I kept losing my Canbus connection on the IC7 with it on. I've never really been impressed with Haltechs firmware support as every version always breaks something, but it seems to have gotten worst over the last few months. Oh yea and still nothing from Speedtek...
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