Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have 3rd party only on the r32, it just wasnt worth it in my view for the value of my car for fully comprehensive, $2000 per year + $1000 excess

plus nrma 3rd party has uninsured motorists extension up to $5000 if you get hit

by someone without insurance

the trade off, you have to drive sensibly/alert so as to not cause an accident, and not covered for theft, so wont leave my car anywhere remotely dodgy...any carpark...

although if you cant afford to buy another car if you have an at fault accident, then you should probably have full insurance...

the trade off, you have to drive sensibly/alert so as to not cause an accident, and not covered for theft, so wont leave my car anywhere remotely dodgy...any carpark...

this is no offence but i dont see why people say they should behave any different to if they have comprahensive or 3rd party insurance.

does it mean if you have comprehensive insurance you can drive like a dickhead because u are covered ??? no...

anyways this is just a little rant hehe drive like you normally do i have 3rd party on my car but i dont go hmmm maybe i shouldnt do this cause i only have 3rd party...

but yea i am looking to get a skylien with 3rd party been quoted anywhere from $450 +

this is no offence but i dont see why people say they should behave any different to if they have comprahensive or 3rd party insurance.  

does it mean if you have comprehensive insurance you can drive like a dickhead because u are covered ??? no...  

anyways this is just a little rant hehe drive like you normally do i have 3rd party on my car but i dont go hmmm maybe i shouldnt do this cause i only have 3rd party...

but yea i am looking to get a skylien with 3rd party been quoted anywhere from $450 +

i just meant leave bigger gaps and stay away from other cars like you do on a motorbike ;p

do you guys get tailgaters? i get them all the time...usually corolla twin cams!! or 4wds on the m5

its so bad i have considered wiring up my reverse lights to a switch !

i think the argument is if u have full comp u can afford to drive like a dickhead ... u can't with just 3rd party ... so if u just got 3rd party then u shouldn't drive like a dickhead ..

If you driving habits change because you are comprehensivly insured then you need to take another look at how insurance works.

If you have even one incident in which you have to claim it costs you both arms and both legs.

Firstly you have to pay your excess, which in most peoples cases is $1000 - $2000 .

Next you lose your No Claim Bonus of up to 60% (unless you are on lifetime which few are) so next years insurance costs 60% more.

Next you have made a claim/had an "incident" so next years insurance takes THAT into account and classifies you as a bad driver which means bigger premiums.

An at fault accident can leave you in the shit for up to 5 years. even if noone was hurt and no other cars were involved!

regardless, even if you are a careful driver with 3rd party only you'll take less chances

simple as that ;p :flamed:

the company car is a lot faster than my skyline but it has less power figure that out..... :(

its all about risk and personal cost....

thats what insurance is.... im self insured (3rd party) on the skyline because

the cost of me having an accident and having to fix my car is less than fully comprehensive in the long run... um another factor is i drive once a week too :Bang:

do you guys get tailgaters? i get them all the time...usually corolla twin cams!! or 4wds on the m5

its so bad i have considered wiring up my reverse lights to a switch !

holy crap yes! it's scary aswell as I know I have better brakes then they do!

I have full comp but I drive like I don't as it costs too much too make a claim.

I just had a look over my insurance policy (Famous Classic Insurance).

* 21yrs old living in Western Sydney.

* 1995 Nissan Skyline Coupe.

* $25,500 or market value (whichever is lesser).

* Usage: Private/Daily.

* 40% NCB

= $3,036 (or $2,760 if I pay it upfront).

Basic Excess = $1,000.

Additional Excess = $2,000 (theft and/or malicious damage).

Plus $2,000 single vehicle accident excess.

So that means:

* Car is stolen = $2,000 upfront (or $5,036 over 1yr)

* An at fault accident = $3,000 upfront (or $6,036 over 1yr)

That means if I was to have an accident i'd have to do more than $6,000 damage for insurance to be worthwhile.

Personally i'd rather spend 1 years worth of insurance ($3,306 in my case) and go all out on security devices and then just sit back and pray that nothing major goes wrong for a good 3 or 4 years. The only problem with this idea is that if you haven't held full comprehensive insurance anytime in the last 365 days your NCB drops all the way back to scratch and you have to build it up again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How f**ked am i? what would happen if i leave the magnet inside there? 
    • I'll update you guys when i get home from work, im going to try to fish it out.  I just realized that i can't even drop the oil pan. The whole front diff and axles are connected to the oil pan... is it even possible to drop the oil pan without taking out the motor?  
    • So recently at the track had experienced a loss of throttle after a period of WOT after installing the emtron ecu, recently did some logging to troubleshoot the issue and found the ECU was cutting due to a low oil pressure issue. Going over the log can see that while accelerating at 4k rpm will see 100 PSI of pressure and holding steady at that level until getting off the throttle which then after can see as low as 25 PSI at 3-4k rpm and will recover back to a normal level after that.   Wondering if anyone has an idea what could be the cause as it just feels abit strange and i dont feel like it could be a sensor issues just due to it clearly sitting at a good pressure until off throttle, in the attached can see a 3rd and 4th gear pull but can even perform great through 3 and 4 gears of WOT but still once off throttle and getting back on it will see pressure drop.
    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
×
×
  • Create New...