Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys I am ready to start having a play with my tune. RB25det stock injectors(740cc coming soon) stock afm(Z32 on the way soon). Bosh 040 being installed as well. Running a Nistuned rb20 ECU with nearly complete home made VCT controller. I would like to log boost aswell where can i buy a map sensor that has a known configuration table? i was thinking a bosch 3bar?

Also any tips on getting better boost response? I have a Hpyergear atr28g4 installed and it is very laggy and has a large pause on gear shift bfore it starts making boost again. I am not running a BOV atm but the stock item will be reinstalled soon.

Any tips will be helpful

what configuration do you need? a map sensor reads pressure from it's vac line and then returns it in voltage, there's nothing to configure? you need its ramp table values, ie what voltage = what pressure, but thats it. be sure to note map sensors are rated in sweeping pressure not boost, so a 3 bar map sensor is actually 1 bar below vacuum and 2 bar positive pressure or "boost". so a 3 bar map sensor will cap out at 2 bar boost.

you mention a homemade vct controller, your tune and engine will run like ass if you dont have this spot on.

to eliminate endless fault finding you should get your VCT controller work spot on on the dyno before doing anything else. a homemade device could be the cause of endless hours of fault finding and debuggin why, so be sure to nail this before even cotemplating tuning anything else.

the gearchange boost response will because you have removed the stock bov, reconnect it with the factory setup to re-use the dumped airflow/pressure from gearchange, this will improve gearchange response.

for the most response ensure a good cold air intake, lots of ignition timing, a good stable tune with good AFR's

make sure your boost contorller is setup correctly to, to test this run unlimited boost (blocked actuator) on the dyno and ramp it to about 1bar and then back off (be careufl, its unlimited boost) and note the RPM it wakes up at. this is the best possible "on boost" RPM and your boost controller should match that. ie if it winds up 10psi by 3400rpm when you fit and setup your boost controller, it should still make 10psi by 3400rpm as it did in unlimited boost and then you set it to run whatever. an often mistake is mangled or guessed ramp / duty which may add extra lag to the boost build stage

When you say "have a play with your tune" do you have anything with which to measure what you are doing i.e wide band meter to measure afrs, some kind of knock detector and an exhaust temp meter? Otherwise you could end up destroying your motor.

  Quote
lots of ignition timing,

+1. For decent response, put in heaps of timing (still safely though), just as you're coming onto boost i.e. just as your coming out of vacuum, and the first few pounds of boost. Maybe make it a little on the rich side around those parts, to be ultra safe. Also put your stock BOV in for better between gear boost. And as Paul said, make sure you have a decent cold air intake and that your cooler piping is nice and short/unrestrictive.

Do you have a wideband to check your airfuel ratios?

I should have mentioned before I have some experience mapping with Nistune on my old mildly modified R32 as well as mapping the Wolf ECU on my old S14.

I have a techedge Wideband unit permanent wired in to the car.

When i said configuration i meant exactly what you said Paul. I also realize with the 3 bar that 1 bar is vacuum and 2 bar for boost.

I thought the lack of BOV might be causing the lack of boost response on gear changes.

The internal gate has a lot of preload on it and is currently holding 0.7bar perfectly through to redline. I wont wire it shut for testing until i get it on the dyno i am quite careful with my car.

So basically to loose the lag(or make is as good as it will get) i need to give it more timing before and during ramp up. Tune fuel to 13.5? in this area richening up as boost comes on to 12 - 12.5 depending on how nce and safe i want to be.

So more details on the vct controller:

Using an Amtel chip. Reading in the rpm signal from the ECU through a resistor, diode then an optio isolator, ensuring a nice clean signal.

Software has been written to count the RPM, just working out the bugs now on the output that will ground the VCT wire on the loom.

Also plan to use this board for data logging and maybe experiment with boost control, as i dont like my current unit too much.

Thanks for the tips guys

ideally if you want quick spool up, less timing = hotter exhaust gases, but the car will feel like a nugget or you can run her leaner

I have mine like on 13 A/F coming onto boost and when it hits around 3700rpm it's flat on 12.0 all the way to redline.

as said heaps of timing everywhere off boost, makes a huge difference to the way it drives. as for afr's, simple rule is to aim for 13-13.5 at 0psi then ramp evenly to around 11.5 at peak boost then back to 12 to redline. for safety i tend to richen and retard the cells just on/after limiter a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's the thing. Especially at idle, changing the cam angle by that much could be spewing more fuel out the exhaust courtesy of everything happening that bit later. More fuel also means more air (if the fuel didn't burn, then neither did the O2) and so the O2 sensors can start to tell interesting but misleading stories. And the specifics of what is happening could easily be affected by everything else you changed as well. And it could be dynamic, where a few revs more or less could somewhat change how the engine is breathing.
    • Good idea on the temp probe. The mv readings of the O2 sensors are very similar to one another, as is the injector pw. I went through logs in the past to see if there was a discrepancy and there is. Because they alternate up and down as narrowbands do.. they do often 'switch' as to which one is more. They were never 20%+ (more like 1-2%) so it's possible the difference between 20 and 15-17% is a similar discrepancy to 2.0% and 1.7% which I wouldn't have really noticed in the past. We did think about spacing the strut brace. Unfortunately the ~20mm that the GTR brace is lower than the GTT brace is effectively what you need to clear the vents. Moving it up would make it very uncomfortable, but it's plausible that 10mm is a unhappy medium between both hard places... The good news is.. using MR HAMMER it was actually pretty easy to bend back the bent bits to make sure the guard and headlight/new headlight tabs line up right. Yes, we used a R34 GTR guard to make sure the bolt holes all lined up with a known straight guard. As above, you can see the side skirt and the GTR guard are not meant to play together, but everyone seems to think this is a simple fix to the point where nobody who has had these talk to one another mentions how... ...so I'll just assume they know how to fix it when it comes to paint jail time again. Whoever they are. Nobody returns my calls. There's so much changed with regard to the ECU and the car.. that the next step really is to connect the scanner and attempt to drive the thing. It'll be pretty clear pretty fast how in or out everything actually is...
    • That's nasty! I think there is perhaps an inherent problem is using elastomers in such environments. The whole thing can and will get quite hot, and elastomers are not famous for their temperature resistance. On top of that, if the components are cast rubber or urethane and so on, there might be QA/QC problems with bubbles or voids in the material that could critically change their performance. They might just tear apart after being squished (presuming that any elastomers are used in compression rather than tension, I'm thinking that you squeeze one with a void in it and it tears the wall of the void to the outer edge of block, then the next time it extends or otherwise twists, it just gives up). This is all purely hypothetical, but it makes me wonder if the things that they have put into it to make it nice to use/live with are perhaps going to cause occasional failures like this. I wouldn't be getting up in arms over it, unless there are many repeats. I have personally ruined an Xtreme clutch - just an HD thing. I can't remember if it was still behind the 20 or was after the 25 went in. But it inverted some of the retaining spring/clip things around the outside. No-one could explain it. It wasn't thrashed, there wasn't heaps of torque being put through it, and there were no obvious problems other than the above. They were quite concerned by the event so they replaced it even though it was a few years old, which was very nice of them. As far as I am concerned, these things happen with clutches.
    • Any damage to the box/input shaft?
    • Hey there Mate , I just got my local guy to install it Waterhouse Performance, Penrith (specialise Nissan/Datsun and other performance cars) , you can do it yourself if you like , AMS has instructions on their website.  Cheers Pac
×
×
  • Create New...