Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just out of curiosity i went on the intrawebs to look for an r34 rb26dett half cut or just the engine. I cant find any understandably (←is that right?) because well you dont see many r34 gtrs at the wreckers BUT i did see a few r32 RB26's so my question is, whats the difference between the 3?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315538-whats-the-difference-in-rb26s/
Share on other sites

If it is a base model GTR, then they are all the same IMO.

There have been a few refinements with the RB26's through out the different models + the engine producing slightly more torque, but that will be due to the tuning of the car.

Even with the slight tweaks here and there, it's not enough to say it's a totally different engine.

Visually the Cam / rocker covers are Red (R34 GTR) VS Black (R32 / R33 GTR)

The Letter "RB" and the numbers "26" are a different font style on the R34 GTR, but that's nothing to be concerned about.

But if you come across a N1 RB26, it is different to the base model engines.

If it is a base model GTR, then they are all the same IMO.

There have been a few refinements with the RB26's through out the different models + the engine producing slightly more torque, but that will be due to the tuning of the car.

Even with the slight tweaks here and there, it's not enough to say it's a totally different engine.

Visually the Cam / rocker covers are Red (R34 GTR) VS Black (R32 / R33 GTR)

The Letter "RB" and the numbers "26" are a different font style on the R34 GTR, but that's nothing to be concerned about.

But if you come across a N1 RB26, it is different to the base model engines.

alright thanks

As above plus,

32 engines, 89 to roughly early93ish had the short oil pump drive snout on the crank.

All others have the longer pump drive.

34 cam timing cover is plastic.

Slighly different cam durations between the 32,33 vs 34.

Slighly different cam durations between the 32,33 vs 34.

you know I've heard that said before but never seen proof? I've had a set of 32 cams degreed so if anyone has sstd 33 or 34 cams done we could check the results.

There may be a difference in the wiring, I've seen a coilpack loom with a different plug at the back.

CAS wiring into the sensor as the R34's use a slightly different CAS, i think it's just a matter of swapping some pins, the CAS drive is different on the r34 CAM too I think.

Yep, coil packs on the 34 have the electronics on the coilpack, so no seperate ignition module like on the 32-33.

Duncan, your correct, the cams are the same specs, the only difference is the pre set valve timing is different on the R34 compared to the 32,33.

Tomei spread sheet shows 113deg on intake cam on 32-33, 117deg on 34.

125deg on ex for 32-33, 120deg on 33 N1, and 121deg on 34.

240deg duration intake on 32-33-34, 236deg duration exhaust on 32-33-34.

32s also had that niggly problem with too much oil to the head and not enough left at the sump when pushed.

I think they rectified (sorta?) this problem for the 33s and 34s?

Just another thing to consider I guess. Unless of course the engine is getting a rebuild which would render this a moot point anyways.

alright thanks

:laugh:

As above plus,

32 engines, 89 to roughly early93ish had the short oil pump drive snout on the crank.

All others have the longer pump drive.

34 cam timing cover is plastic.

Slighly different cam durations between the 32,33 vs 34.

32s also had that niggly problem with too much oil to the head and not enough left at the sump when pushed.

I think they rectified (sorta?) this problem for the 33s and 34s?

Just another thing to consider I guess. Unless of course the engine is getting a rebuild which would render this a moot point anyways.

I too have read about this.

But tend to fail at high power applications (if not changed).

If your R32 GTR is stock / lighly / mildly modified, it would be fine.

Ppl talk alot but unless they've actually got their hands dirty, remove and re-assembly the engine then don't listen to them. 32gtrs engines are time bombs ticking away unless its been look after extreamly well, or built by somebody who knows or actually race their.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Guys,

I'de like to add to this that, whilst there is an inherent problem with the oiling on 32 series RB26s, I believe in many cases there is an excessive exaggeration of the issue caused by generalisations made in popular media such as magazines etc.

I'm ofcourse not saying that there aren't issues but i think that people lose sight of the fact that many of the engines in question have done well over 100'000 Km and in many cases are over 20 years old and we are not talking about 100'000 km of light load either, everyone knows what people buy these cars for.

Just my 2c

Cheers,

Mitch.

Ppl talk alot but unless they've actually got their hands dirty, remove and re-assembly the engine then don't listen to them. 32gtrs engines are time bombs ticking away unless its been look after extreamly well, or built by somebody who knows or actually race their.

Is this true of all 32 RB26's? What about the later ones, or the V-SpecII? I was told V-SpecII had 33 GTR running gear but can't confirm that. Also if you overfill the engine near 1L you can alleviate this.

It is also more a problem on track than on road as it's in high G loads that this happens because the sump is not baffeled good enough.

sorry I disagree....the oiling system is absolutely identical in all motors other than the narrower oil pump drive. I have seen a couple of motors with wear or spun oil pump drives but it is less than 1 in 100 rb26 failures. In fact, go into GTR_Geoff's engine failure thread and find me a single instance where that caused a failure.

All of rb26 series motors can do with some minor improvements for their oil systems....but after 15 years wear on the pump clearances, bearings, crank straightness, rings, pistons, bad tunes, bad oil changes etc etc etc are much more likely to cause issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...