Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could be multiple things, any other symptoms other than just the light coming on? If it comes on and she doesn't notice any differences in how the car drives, it could be anything from low oil pressure (BAD thing), engine knock (she might not notice the sound that comes with this problem) or just sensors stuffing up.

I know my HICAS light comes on a lot when driving back from Sydney, but I am 99% sure there is nothing wrong with it.

If neither of you know anything more than the fact that the light comes on occasionally, I'd recommend either taking it to somewhere like Trojan Motorsports in Mitchell, or Autotech in Hume....otherwise perhaps you should swap cars for a week and see what you think yourself, try to pick up symptoms when it happens. Stop the car and listen to the engine with the bonet up, immediately look at oil pressure, water temp, etc etc

Hope that helps a little, but unfortunately a little more info is needed :thumbsup: like trying to diagnose what someone's illness is when all the can tell you is "it hurts here" and points to themself

My wife says the engine light comes on occasionally on her r33 gtr .Any ideas what it could be?

Cheers

Small world David, I work with a friend of yours (fatz might ring a bell). Loving the vmax!

Does the engine light come on and stay on or does it flicker? Do you know if she noticed any other issues when the light comes on, like loss of power or anything?

Could be something easy and cheap or could be a warning of something more drastic waiting to occur. "Warning Will Robinson" ...lol....Sorry cant be more specific as others have mentioned what else is happening if anything. Need to diagnose and best to have someone qualified than 'hit n miss' gueses. Tuning was my issue when this light flickerd ie: knock sensor.

Your Engine light is flickeringing for a real reason in most cases - This light informs you when there is a problem anywhere in the vehicles Electronic Engine Control System. This system basically includes all sensors, solenoids, valves, actuators etc. that your vehicle needs to operate correctly. The system is big and can include both engine and/or transmission concerns.

Hook it up to a scan tool and retrieve the fault codes, may not show you the exact fault but will probably point you in the right direction.

Best way to do it is check the fault codes, write them down (reference no. and description, eg. P0205-O2 sensor open circuit), erase the codes, test drive it and recheck the codes and see which ones come back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...