Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all my first post here, being a proud owner of an r34 gtt auto.

My simple questions are, what is the expected water temp gauge supposed to read when warmed up, mine is constant just below half or about 43%

What is the Oil pressure gauge supposed to be at, mine is about 1/4 to 1/3 when warmed up and starts out just above 1/2 when cold.

What is the oil temp supposed to be at when warmed up.

My boost gauge in the console refuses to move, its a constant 0 even though all other parameters are fine is this common and otherwise what can i do to get it fixed.

The car has an issue with the bonnet latch causing the bonnet to close shut with one side a few millimeters down, not a big big deal but any ideas.

How easy is it to source and fit the r34 gtr lcd screen in the center of the dash, in fact what is its name :cool:

Also where in WA can I find some reputable places to fit mods, bodykits etc.

Also I have a mate with an r33 that has boost problems, do you guys know of a good place in WA for shops that specialise in dyno tuning & troubleshooting skylines.

Much appreciate any help I can get.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/
Share on other sites

water and oil will depend on how you are driving? cruise or hard?

R34 GTR screen is called a MFD.. there are some write-ups on here about installing one..

with the bonnet.. you could 'bend' the bonnet.. someone maybe sat/leaned on that side.. not looking to warp the bonnet just give it a little twist... (don't really know how to explain it properly, so some one else might be able to)

For the mods, bodykit, boost problems.. i would look into posting/searching the WA Section of the forum.. will get a more direct response

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/#findComment-5168834
Share on other sites

water and oil will depend on how you are driving? cruise or hard?

R34 GTR screen is called a MFD.. there are some write-ups on here about installing one..

with the bonnet.. you could 'bend' the bonnet.. someone maybe sat/leaned on that side.. not looking to warp the bonnet just give it a little twist... (don't really know how to explain it properly, so some one else might be able to)

For the mods, bodykit, boost problems.. i would look into posting/searching the WA Section of the forum.. will get a more direct response

for the oil temp and pressure i cruise around, but was slightly worried that pressure seems low. I found a post about fixing the boost gauge, some boos controller box and hoses stuffing up.

The bonnet is not bent if I let it sit on top of latch without locking it in it looks perfect and straight and its almost as if the center latch is on a slight angle so that when it fastened in place it warps the bonnet slightly to one side.. strange but really annoying. I'm thinking of buying small rubber discs of some sort to see if I can use it to elevate it slightly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/#findComment-5168853
Share on other sites

for the oil temp and pressure i cruise around, but was slightly worried that pressure seems low. I found a post about fixing the boost gauge, some boos controller box and hoses stuffing up.

The bonnet is not bent if I let it sit on top of latch without locking it in it looks perfect and straight and its almost as if the center latch is on a slight angle so that when it fastened in place it warps the bonnet slightly to one side.. strange but really annoying. I'm thinking of buying small rubber discs of some sort to see if I can use it to elevate it slightly.

Bonnet stop missing one side ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/#findComment-5168912
Share on other sites

yeah check the bonnet stop isn't missing from 1 side, or maybe it just needs to be wound out a touch.

as for water temp, should be about half way. below that means your thermostat is dicky (unless you have a lower temp one such as a nismo), but at 43% it could just be the gauge or it could be the thermostat. really need to check it with a consult cable.

with the boost gauge, there is a vaccum line that runs from the back of the plenum to a little box with some wires attached to it around the back of the strut tower on the drivers side. it is pretty common for this hose to split and the gauge to stop working as it won't read anything. the sign that this is the likely cause is that it isn't moving from zero, because if it was a turbo problem then it should still read in the negative when idling, etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/#findComment-5169026
Share on other sites

yeah check the bonnet stop isn't missing from 1 side, or maybe it just needs to be wound out a touch.

as for water temp, should be about half way. below that means your thermostat is dicky (unless you have a lower temp one such as a nismo), but at 43% it could just be the gauge or it could be the thermostat. really need to check it with a consult cable.

with the boost gauge, there is a vaccum line that runs from the back of the plenum to a little box with some wires attached to it around the back of the strut tower on the drivers side. it is pretty common for this hose to split and the gauge to stop working as it won't read anything. the sign that this is the likely cause is that it isn't moving from zero, because if it was a turbo problem then it should still read in the negative when idling, etc.

Bonnet issue identified, bonnet warps due to rubber stopper being pulverised. It is literally squashed to buggery while the other side is in pristine condition.. probably going to find some larger rubber piece to fit over the top to give it more height.

Boost gauge confirmed, the vacuum line is stuffed, so I thought how hard can this be I cut of the split end and proceeded to force it back onto the connector on the firewall side... and it split again.. a few more of these attempts and now too short :P looks like I need a new hose now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/#findComment-5169811
Share on other sites

i had the same issue with my 33. cut the hose shorter. lasted a few days before splitting again. new hose is cheap. any auto parts store will have some.

as for the bonnet stopper, try your local wreckers. have a feeling that they are a pretty standard thing and not specific to skylines, so even if you get one off a commodore or something like that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/#findComment-5170134
Share on other sites

Boost gauge confirmed, the vacuum line is stuffed, so I thought how hard can this be I cut of the split end and proceeded to force it back onto the connector on the firewall side... and it split again.. a few more of these attempts and now too short :) looks like I need a new hose now.

hahaha I did the EXACT same thing :laugh: Yep new hose and no problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/#findComment-5170286
Share on other sites

yeah check the bonnet stop isn't missing from 1 side, or maybe it just needs to be wound out a touch.

as for water temp, should be about half way. below that means your thermostat is dicky (unless you have a lower temp one such as a nismo), but at 43% it could just be the gauge or it could be the thermostat. really need to check it with a consult cable.

with the boost gauge, there is a vaccum line that runs from the back of the plenum to a little box with some wires attached to it around the back of the strut tower on the drivers side. it is pretty common for this hose to split and the gauge to stop working as it won't read anything. the sign that this is the likely cause is that it isn't moving from zero, because if it was a turbo problem then it should still read in the negative when idling, etc.

Mads, the water temp is about right on just a tad below half way I give it about 47 to a 100 being max.

My issue is still the boost gauge, got a new hose but gauge is not responding... it is however all the way at the bottom now.. the funny thing is that car comes on boost nice and strong so it must be picking up some kind of pressure should at least go to 0 bar right? I'm afraid it might be jammed or something... does it have any electrics to it?

Also I'm worried about oil pressure... oil pressure numbered 0 to 8.. typically when I start up it goes about 4.1 (or half) but I have seen it go as low as 2.1 never lower, this would be while driving on the fwy cursing for at-least 20km

the oil temp gets to about 90 and never over 100....

If anyone still sees this please post your r34 oil temps and pressures ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/#findComment-5171416
Share on other sites

Mads, the water temp is about right on just a tad below half way I give it about 47 to a 100 being max.

My issue is still the boost gauge, got a new hose but gauge is not responding... it is however all the way at the bottom now.. the funny thing is that car comes on boost nice and strong so it must be picking up some kind of pressure should at least go to 0 bar right? I'm afraid it might be jammed or something... does it have any electrics to it?

Also I'm worried about oil pressure... oil pressure numbered 0 to 8.. typically when I start up it goes about 4.1 (or half) but I have seen it go as low as 2.1 never lower, this would be while driving on the fwy cursing for at-least 20km

the oil temp gets to about 90 and never over 100....

If anyone still sees this please post your r34 oil temps and pressures ...

correction its lower, this is why I'm worried pressure is as low as 1.2 out of 8.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/#findComment-5171422
Share on other sites

Hey mate I noticed my oil pressure use to drop to about 1.5 sometimes when I was using a thiner oil (Motul 300v 10w40) Then on next oil change decided to use Motul 300v 15w50 and now it's always stable at 2 when warmed up.

When I had my stock radiator temps on a warm day, city driving it would get up to 100 then on freeway with air con on 110 but never over. Start thumping it and after 2-3 minutes of that temps would easily reach 120.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/#findComment-5171453
Share on other sites

Mads, the water temp is about right on just a tad below half way I give it about 47 to a 100 being max.

My issue is still the boost gauge, got a new hose but gauge is not responding... it is however all the way at the bottom now.. the funny thing is that car comes on boost nice and strong so it must be picking up some kind of pressure should at least go to 0 bar right? I'm afraid it might be jammed or something... does it have any electrics to it?

Also I'm worried about oil pressure... oil pressure numbered 0 to 8.. typically when I start up it goes about 4.1 (or half) but I have seen it go as low as 2.1 never lower, this would be while driving on the fwy cursing for at-least 20km

the oil temp gets to about 90 and never over 100....

If anyone still sees this please post your r34 oil temps and pressures ...

Mine get up to 100 and a bit over on the track. Mostly around 85 - 90 on normal driving, but strangely this is only happening in the last few months. Previously I would only get up to 80 on the street, but now (no matter what oil I run) the temp goes way higher. Whats the highest it should run?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315705-r34-gtt-basics/#findComment-5179777
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...