Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, so I'm having this problem where the car makes barely any power from 4000-5000rpm. I'm not being paranoid, it's very noticable. It picks up again after 5000.

It's an R34 with RB25DE. It's only been happening since I changed the spark plugs (NGK Platinum), Coilpacks, oil (Castrol Magnatec 10-40W), oil filter and fuel filter.

I changed them all at once, because I thought it would be nice to give it a bit of a proper service.

What could be the problem?

Oh, a few things to add: It doesn't misfire, fuel filter is correct way, and spark plugs are 1.1mm gap (correct I believe).

Cheers, Brent.

Edited by Brent
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315893-dead-rev-range-4000-5000rpm/
Share on other sites

check the butterfly valve on the the throttle body is opening properly and not getting jammed..

That could be the problem as the VCT is supposed ot kick in at around 4000-4500 from memory.

If not disconnect the positive (I think) side of the battery and drain all the charge to do a reset of the CPU and see if it does it after that.

Hope that helps.

David

edit: oh yeah is it auto or manual? if its auto its probably cause autos suck haha just busting your balls, But if it is auto it could be something else..

Similar stuff has been covered before so have a search in this section something like 'lack of power' or 'sluggish'

bro mine does the same :( at about 5,500 revs it really really takes off but anything below especially 4000rpm range is very sluggish.. i recently changeed to splitfires, got a 100k service etc new timing belt and it sounds like air gushing out really fast in high revs... like im losing compression somewhere :)

it's really annoying aye? but i got mine converted from an auto - manual and am still on the auto ecu... so i dunno if thats my prob or not :S

Also check that the vacuum line from the airbox to the butterfly valve solenoid isn't blocked off if you have fitted a pod filter. in general check the vacuum gallery. I posted in a thread somewhere on here a diagram, i'll see if I can find it later, but that has also been known to have similar symptoms if it is blocked.

Also check that the vacuum line from the airbox to the butterfly valve solenoid isn't blocked off if you have fitted a pod filter. in general check the vacuum gallery. I posted in a thread somewhere on here a diagram, i'll see if I can find it later, but that has also been known to have similar symptoms if it is blocked.

+1 Seen this many times, some clown did this to my car when they put a pod filter in when I bought it....was amazed the car went from acceptable to pus performance.

Thanks guys, problem fixed!! It was the two vacuum lines for the variable intake control solenoid. (10 and 3 on the diagram). They were switched around, this was my fault! Thanks guys for the help, and diagram :)

-Brent.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah one of the first things I out in when I started having catch can filling up issues. Still prefer to empty 1-2 times a track day rather than every session
    • You'll find this link is probably more useful  Performance Turbochargers - Garrett - G GT GTX GTW Series Turbo TBG G35 1150 map may not even get added to my list depending on how it looks, the G35 1050 already is a mixed bag for making the numbers you would expect from the compressor map due to mismatch - I don't know how another 10lb/min of compressor flow is going to make that any better.   I've left out others for similar reasons as it's already getting quite big.   In terms of Precision, provide me with legit compressor maps for them and I'll do my thing   I'll add some more of the newer Xona Rotor options are they're pretty boss, I'd take a 68mm Xona over a G35 "1150" any day of the week - or Precision for that matter.
    • Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
×
×
  • Create New...