Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, so I'm having this problem where the car makes barely any power from 4000-5000rpm. I'm not being paranoid, it's very noticable. It picks up again after 5000.

It's an R34 with RB25DE. It's only been happening since I changed the spark plugs (NGK Platinum), Coilpacks, oil (Castrol Magnatec 10-40W), oil filter and fuel filter.

I changed them all at once, because I thought it would be nice to give it a bit of a proper service.

What could be the problem?

Oh, a few things to add: It doesn't misfire, fuel filter is correct way, and spark plugs are 1.1mm gap (correct I believe).

Cheers, Brent.

Edited by Brent
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315893-dead-rev-range-4000-5000rpm/
Share on other sites

check the butterfly valve on the the throttle body is opening properly and not getting jammed..

That could be the problem as the VCT is supposed ot kick in at around 4000-4500 from memory.

If not disconnect the positive (I think) side of the battery and drain all the charge to do a reset of the CPU and see if it does it after that.

Hope that helps.

David

edit: oh yeah is it auto or manual? if its auto its probably cause autos suck haha just busting your balls, But if it is auto it could be something else..

Similar stuff has been covered before so have a search in this section something like 'lack of power' or 'sluggish'

bro mine does the same :( at about 5,500 revs it really really takes off but anything below especially 4000rpm range is very sluggish.. i recently changeed to splitfires, got a 100k service etc new timing belt and it sounds like air gushing out really fast in high revs... like im losing compression somewhere :)

it's really annoying aye? but i got mine converted from an auto - manual and am still on the auto ecu... so i dunno if thats my prob or not :S

Also check that the vacuum line from the airbox to the butterfly valve solenoid isn't blocked off if you have fitted a pod filter. in general check the vacuum gallery. I posted in a thread somewhere on here a diagram, i'll see if I can find it later, but that has also been known to have similar symptoms if it is blocked.

Also check that the vacuum line from the airbox to the butterfly valve solenoid isn't blocked off if you have fitted a pod filter. in general check the vacuum gallery. I posted in a thread somewhere on here a diagram, i'll see if I can find it later, but that has also been known to have similar symptoms if it is blocked.

+1 Seen this many times, some clown did this to my car when they put a pod filter in when I bought it....was amazed the car went from acceptable to pus performance.

Thanks guys, problem fixed!! It was the two vacuum lines for the variable intake control solenoid. (10 and 3 on the diagram). They were switched around, this was my fault! Thanks guys for the help, and diagram :)

-Brent.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...