Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Day 6 - 15/4/10

1 can of VHT = stealth intercooler :)

Intercooler is all plumbed in now, the injectors are next, also got the Pivot gauges installed

The guys were also tuning the S15 for the upcoming World Time Attack, such a beast.

resized_DSC_1536.jpg

resized_DSC_1537.jpg

resized_DSC_1538.jpg

resized_DSC_1542.jpg

resized_DSC_1548.jpg

resized_DSC_1549.jpg

resized_DSC_1552.jpg

resized_DSC_1566.jpg

resized_DSC_1575.jpg

resized_DSC_1580.jpg

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Good to see another skyline being done up for racing!

Dont want to rain on your parade for the times, but zebra is right. Its easy to get down to low 60's, to push past that and into sub 60's it jumps up exponentially. Not just in power, but suspension, tyre size and compound, cars weight, brake setup and a whole myriad of other things. Good luck to you though, hopefully you do get there. Ive found that if you go out there just to have fun and not worry about your times, you end up doing your best ones without it feeling like you were trying! Its great!

Hopefully will see you out there.

Hi 33_racer, thanks for your advice. We have no illusions about the cost and commitment that it takes to really go fast. To be honest, a 59.99 would be perfect! There is no way that we will be the quickest, as this car will remain road registered, but the Red 4 door GT-T we were using previously was almost totally stock and getting smashed on the straights. Hopefully, this will just allow us to be a little more competitive.

Back to the build - The Apexi Power FC finally turned up!

resized_DSC_1722.jpg

resized_DSC_1713.jpg

resized_DSC_1718.jpg

resized_DSC_1714.jpg

IT'S ALIVE!

:D

Day 7 - 16/4/10

Everything is back together and the Power FC is in! Terry calculated a basic tune and she kicked over first time!!!

Unfortunately we can't get it on the dyno today, but come Monday, we will be on the rollers and find out what gains we made!

resized_IMG_4475.jpg

resized_IMG_4485.jpg

resized_IMG_4481.jpg

resized_IMG_4480.jpg

resized_IMG_4489.jpg

resized_IMG_4502.jpg

Day 9 - 20/04/10

330HP ATW!!!

Here are the dyno sheets, the first three show the actual tune with a steady power curve. The last one is in shootout mode, just going for big numbers. Note the wheelspin at 4000RPM on the last sheet.

On the final pic, the green line shows where we started and the red line is the current output. Pretty happy with that.

resized_tune1.jpg

resized_tune2.jpg

resized_tune3.jpg

resized_shootout.jpg

unless the guy was braking then i'd say the rollers have more resistance judging by how fast the car slowed down.

Anyways iv been for a ride in a 300hp r33 and that was quick enough to impress me lol.

-------------------

Have you thought about getting a lightened flywheel?

Edited by R34 -_-
unless the guy was braking then i'd say the rollers have more resistance judging by how fast the car slowed down.

my car with over 300kw doesnt accelerate that fast in 4th from low revs. both the dyno and the car have brakes that the operator can use to slow it down after the run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
×
×
  • Create New...