Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Regarding checking everything,

The plan is to check my valve clearances and adjust at next service with my mechanic friend (NA_Goodness).

In my L24 tappet noise/click thread, MAG86 and Daewoo explain how to do valve clearances so i'm set with that.

Ignition Timing is all good, was checked approx 1 month ago.

Only thing i don't know about is cam timing, I'll see if my mechanic knows anything about it.

I'm going to with 25W-60 oil for next service to minimise blowby as well as topping up gearbox oil (suspect it's low).

and also which of the following should i use?

Engine Oil Flush Just before oil change. (I've heard the liqui moly equivalent is better, anyone agree?)

Long Term Engine Treatment With New Oil.

Worn Engine TreatmentWith New oil.

Lifter Free and Tune-Up With New Oil.

Manual Gearbox and Diff Treatment Add to existing oil in gearbox only not diff.

Will the bottom 3 work together without any problems?

after all that i plan to use Total Fuel System Cleaner to clean out the fuel system.

Other things include add oil to spare diff and swap in and new fuel filter.

I think I have covered all i want to do so far.

I've never bothered with any of the treatments you've listed. I'd choose a decent quality oil though for sure.

The cam timing is no biggie to check. Makes sense to do it at the same time as your tappets. Take of the timing cover and turn the engine over till piston 1 is at the top.

The big sprocket bolted onto the front of your cam can be bolted on in 3 different positions. Position 1 is for a new timing chain, position 3 for a stretched timing chain. The sprocket has a little notch cut out of it. When your number one piston is at top dead centre the notch on the sprocket will line up nicely with a little mark on the cam tower. If the chain has stretched the notch won't line up any more (I think the notch will be to the right of the timing mark from memory.)

If the notch and the timing mark don't line up you'll need too compensate for the chain stretch by unbolting the sprocket and repositioning it. If the sprocket is already on position 3 it's time for a new timing chain. Word of warning though, don't let the chain go slack at any stage, as there is a little spring loaded tensioner which will pop out of its home if you do.

The reason to bother with all of this headache is because your timing chain certainly will stretch as you start to clock up serious miles, and a floppy chain will definitely affect the performance of the car.

Good luck!

  • 3 weeks later...

Mech couldn't work out how to adjust the valve clearances, is it just one nut you undo and then move the rocker then tighten?

Service done as above but without long life engine treatment, no gearbox or diff work and used 20/60 penrite oil.

Pinion bearings are shot in my diff as well, i have spare diff to swap in (R180). On the half shaft bolts do i use a socket on the diff side and a ring spanner on the other? Tried with a mate with open ended and ring spanners and was slipping and wouldn't move. Should I spray WD40 on it beforehand?

thanks

Is your friend a Mech for a living?

Either he can't read a manual or doesn't know what an adjustible post with locknut looks like...pretty basic stuff.

Remove the rocker retaining springs

Rotate motor so heal of cam lobe is on the valve rocker arm

Undo the 17mm locknut and adjust the post with 14mm spanner.

Tighten locknut

RECHECK CLEARANCE

Refit spring (that way you know which are done)

I always loosened the locknut just enough to adjust the post because when you retighten the locknut the clearance can change.

I hope above is right (please feel free to correct people)as I haven't touched an L series in 30 years :-)

Edited by R34

He's an apprentice and hasn't worked on L series before.

The gregorys manual and L24 service manual I had on the day were very vague on the details.

I have since found the info i am looking for.

Thanks for help

He's an apprentice and hasn't worked on L series before.

The gregorys manual and L24 service manual I had on the day were very vague on the details.

I have since found the info i am looking for.

Thanks for help

He's excused then :-)

Yeah Gregories are only good at street directories

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To clarify, I meant nismo bushes, not control arms (don't even think that's a thing for my car). So the suspension specialist said, if I buy those nismo bushes which are perfectly centered it will cause my car to veer in one direction. Whereas he said the current offset bushes that I have were put in on purpose to fix that issue. This will be my third wheel alignment if I put these bushes in lol. My chassis is straight, all my rails are clean.
    • OK, well, in that case, the suspension specialist is either a moron, or you aren't understanding what he was trying to tell you. Nismo arms are not really different than stock arms. Both are fixed geometry. I don't know if the Nismo ones are a little shorter than the stockers (or perhaps even a little longer) or the same length, but....if you swap from stock to Nismo, whatever happens to one side will happen to the other side. It will not cause it to steer left or right. That is unless you have adjustable bushes in your stockers, and they happen to be adjusted to dial out some bent chassis shenanigans. But, if that were the case, you'd just put adjustables in the Nismo arms anyway, because Nismo arms are essentially just expensive stock arms. And doing a wheel alignment is just a weekly thing in my world. I have had the suspension apart so many times this year that I've lost count and just about worn out a torque wrench. I'm out in the shed right now cutting up some alloy section and making bases for my new stringline setup. Got to make new swivel plates next, then I'm good to do toe properly, as well as camber and bump steer.
    • Yeah, nah. Not a thing. The gasket between the top of the plenum and the runners is far more likely to blow out when it gets old, and not really at ~14 psi. These things have been run to double that for 30 years without that being a common thing.
    • I plan to pull the intake manifold off and check the gaskets, i read that the block to manifold gasket can blow over 14psi and when i picked up the car it was set to 1.2bar on the controller. Send the injectors out for cleaning. Ill also pull the cam covers off and do an inspection, check some valve lash. Someone also said that the timing belt can rub or vibrate against the belt cover and make that sound. Definitely need to get an AFR gauge on it, if it was lean idling im sure it wont be happy
×
×
  • Create New...