Jump to content
SAU Community

C210 Exhaust

Socrates
 Share

Recommended Posts

Socrates Mentor

Socrates

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Regarding checking everything,

The plan is to check my valve clearances and adjust at next service with my mechanic friend (NA_Goodness).

In my L24 tappet noise/click thread, MAG86 and Daewoo explain how to do valve clearances so i'm set with that.

Ignition Timing is all good, was checked approx 1 month ago.

Only thing i don't know about is cam timing, I'll see if my mechanic knows anything about it.

I'm going to with 25W-60 oil for next service to minimise blowby as well as topping up gearbox oil (suspect it's low).

and also which of the following should i use?

Engine Oil Flush Just before oil change. (I've heard the liqui moly equivalent is better, anyone agree?)

Long Term Engine Treatment With New Oil.

Worn Engine TreatmentWith New oil.

Lifter Free and Tune-Up With New Oil.

Manual Gearbox and Diff Treatment Add to existing oil in gearbox only not diff.

Will the bottom 3 work together without any problems?

after all that i plan to use Total Fuel System Cleaner to clean out the fuel system.

Other things include add oil to spare diff and swap in and new fuel filter.

I think I have covered all i want to do so far.

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

I've never bothered with any of the treatments you've listed. I'd choose a decent quality oil though for sure.

The cam timing is no biggie to check. Makes sense to do it at the same time as your tappets. Take of the timing cover and turn the engine over till piston 1 is at the top.

The big sprocket bolted onto the front of your cam can be bolted on in 3 different positions. Position 1 is for a new timing chain, position 3 for a stretched timing chain. The sprocket has a little notch cut out of it. When your number one piston is at top dead centre the notch on the sprocket will line up nicely with a little mark on the cam tower. If the chain has stretched the notch won't line up any more (I think the notch will be to the right of the timing mark from memory.)

If the notch and the timing mark don't line up you'll need too compensate for the chain stretch by unbolting the sprocket and repositioning it. If the sprocket is already on position 3 it's time for a new timing chain. Word of warning though, don't let the chain go slack at any stage, as there is a little spring loaded tensioner which will pop out of its home if you do.

The reason to bother with all of this headache is because your timing chain certainly will stretch as you start to clock up serious miles, and a floppy chain will definitely affect the performance of the car.

Good luck!

  • 3 weeks later...
Socrates Mentor

Socrates

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mech couldn't work out how to adjust the valve clearances, is it just one nut you undo and then move the rocker then tighten?

Service done as above but without long life engine treatment, no gearbox or diff work and used 20/60 penrite oil.

Pinion bearings are shot in my diff as well, i have spare diff to swap in (R180). On the half shaft bolts do i use a socket on the diff side and a ring spanner on the other? Tried with a mate with open ended and ring spanners and was slipping and wouldn't move. Should I spray WD40 on it beforehand?

thanks

R34 Mentor

R34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Is your friend a Mech for a living?

Either he can't read a manual or doesn't know what an adjustible post with locknut looks like...pretty basic stuff.

Remove the rocker retaining springs

Rotate motor so heal of cam lobe is on the valve rocker arm

Undo the 17mm locknut and adjust the post with 14mm spanner.

Tighten locknut

RECHECK CLEARANCE

Refit spring (that way you know which are done)

I always loosened the locknut just enough to adjust the post because when you retighten the locknut the clearance can change.

I hope above is right (please feel free to correct people)as I haven't touched an L series in 30 years :-)

Edited by R34
Socrates Mentor

Socrates

Posted
  • Author
Posted

He's an apprentice and hasn't worked on L series before.

The gregorys manual and L24 service manual I had on the day were very vague on the details.

I have since found the info i am looking for.

Thanks for help

R34 Mentor

R34

Posted
Posted
He's an apprentice and hasn't worked on L series before.

The gregorys manual and L24 service manual I had on the day were very vague on the details.

I have since found the info i am looking for.

Thanks for help

He's excused then :-)

Yeah Gregories are only good at street directories

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
×
×
  • Create New...