Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i had a look on imports101 and prestigemotorsports couldnt find any on there, any ideas?

particularly the 840ci model

would just like to know if they can be imported, who imports them and the costs landed/complied etc

i know its a long shot... most people here dont even know these cars exist

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316012-bmw-8-series-from-japan/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

They dont appear on the SEVS register. So to answer your question, at the moment, no.

http://www.raws.com.au/SEVSReg.asp

I always thought that the 8 series was sold brand new in australia, at least at one point in time. Could well be wrong though!

i see :P

yeah all aussie delivered ones were automatic, im trying to see how hard it would be to get one in manual

Isn't it for this reason, that they were aussie delivered that they wont be imported.

I saw one the other day on the road, they do look pretty good. I'm sure the 850 v12 would be pretty nice.

Isn't it for this reason, that they were aussie delivered that they wont be imported.

I saw one the other day on the road, they do look pretty good. I'm sure the 850 v12 would be pretty nice.

from what ive gathered theres pretty much no difference performance wise between the 12s and the 8s. but fark the v12 sounds good

Can't be done, sorry.

damn :P

i have a feeling in time these will become collectable and pricey, wouldnt mind getting one now while they're still affordable

They are a beautiful car, i've always had a secret crush on them.

A friend of mine had the V12 8 series and he took the exhaust off one weekend. Starting it up and revving it saw flames about 4m long flying out of the back of the car. Sounded like the end of the world lol.

I saw one the other day on the road, they do look pretty good. I'm sure the 850 v12 would be pretty nice.

The V8 has very few problems

The V12 has lots of issues as in 'Roadfly BMW' forums - stay away from these.

yeah i realise they're not the cheapest cars to service/repair. need to find one thats had a good history but just like any car, look after it and it'll look after you

will mostly be driven 1 or 2 days a week max.

Terry did you have one of these?

The V8 has very few problems

The V12 has lots of issues as in 'Roadfly BMW' forums - stay away from these.

I have the 4.0 litre V8 in a E34 5 series 540i, awesome engine and 5 speed auto. Done over 200,000 klms with no problems.

The auto in mine is sealed for life (don't need to maintain and change the oil at all)- I found this a little strange??

yeah i realise they're not the cheapest cars to service/repair. need to find one thats had a good history but just like any car, look after it and it'll look after you

will mostly be driven 1 or 2 days a week max.

Terry did you have one of these?

Sylvania BMW is where my son Mark worked as a mechanic. And he told me stories about how the same issues would come up again and again on the V12 engine. And sure enough, those same complaints would come up on BMW forums and would be a talking point at a BMW Drivers' Club SnS at Burwood Pk.

The 8 series Beemer sure is a gorgeous looking car. It was featured as you probably know in the film called "The Score" driven by De Niro.

The E36 320i is another one that can have quite a few faults.

Any BMW that you wish to inspect needs to have its VANOS system listened to (whether it's double or single). Just use a wooden dowel and listen for a sound like rattling marbles. If not, then the VANOS is not worn. The Honda V-Tec was based on the BMW VANOS system.

Go the 840ci with the 4.4 V8. Had a 540i with that engine and it was heavenly. Noise, power, smoothness and economy..

Looks to be a good example: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...5&silo=1011

Gorgeous cars. Choose based on condition first, wheels and other items can be added later. The Parallel M-Spoke 18"s look the business on the 8 Series (E31).

As has been said, would avoid a V12 (850i) and choose the V8 for reliability, but it's all relative; the V8 in either 4.0 or 4.4 still needs to be serviced regularly. The earlier V8s in particular had Nikasil coating on the bore liners which tended to wear prematurely with the excessive sulphur in our petrol (and in other markets too). This should have been fixed under a recall / warranty but not all cars were done under the warranty period. If you start the car cold and open both doors, looking at the trailing edge of the doors will magnify any vibration from the engine and could indicate bore wear (obviously a leak down test would be even more ideal).

The 'nose cone' of the 8 is a very complex shape and quite often didn't even line up perfectly from the factory. Combined with the pop-up headlamp apertures in the bonnet, any crash damage at the front will likely be pretty obvious.

The 8 did come in a manual (850CSi tuned by M Motorsport had a 6 speed manual) but these are very thin on the ground; I'm not sure if they were sold here officially, if so then in very small numbers.

Otherwise from memory the 8 series was sold here from about 1990 until 1999. The V12 went from '90 till the mid 90s, the V8 840Ci from early 90s to '99. Pick of the bunch would be a post-1998 840Ci Sport with the subtle bodykit, steptronic transmission and 4.4 litre V8 with double VANOS (210kW, 440Nm) but they still fetch close to $40K for a neat one with low kms, over $50K for a minter. They did retail for over $200K when new so that means two things - tidy ones are still expensive; and the rest of them are a very risky proposition. The self levelling EDC shocks will cost four figures from BMW, multiple oxygen / lambda sensors at several hundred bucks a pop, etc.

Make sure you have a BMW specialist do a thorough inspection on the car you're serious about, before stumping up the cash.

I have had a couple of drives of an 850i and they are a very nice bit of gear. I was very impressed by how smooth the V12 power plant is and the power delivery was very linier.

They are like GTR's these days in that straight low km units are becomming very hard to find and I would be conerned about the possible BMW repair costs for the poorly maintained examples.

Gorgeous cars. Choose based on condition first, wheels and other items can be added later. The Parallel M-Spoke 18"s look the business on the 8 Series (E31).

As has been said, would avoid a V12 (850i) and choose the V8 for reliability, but it's all relative; the V8 in either 4.0 or 4.4 still needs to be serviced regularly. The earlier V8s in particular had Nikasil coating on the bore liners which tended to wear prematurely with the excessive sulphur in our petrol (and in other markets too). This should have been fixed under a recall / warranty but not all cars were done under the warranty period. If you start the car cold and open both doors, looking at the trailing edge of the doors will magnify any vibration from the engine and could indicate bore wear (obviously a leak down test would be even more ideal).

The 'nose cone' of the 8 is a very complex shape and quite often didn't even line up perfectly from the factory. Combined with the pop-up headlamp apertures in the bonnet, any crash damage at the front will likely be pretty obvious.

The 8 did come in a manual (850CSi tuned by M Motorsport had a 6 speed manual) but these are very thin on the ground; I'm not sure if they were sold here officially, if so then in very small numbers.

Otherwise from memory the 8 series was sold here from about 1990 until 1999. The V12 went from '90 till the mid 90s, the V8 840Ci from early 90s to '99. Pick of the bunch would be a post-1998 840Ci Sport with the subtle bodykit, steptronic transmission and 4.4 litre V8 with double VANOS (210kW, 440Nm) but they still fetch close to $40K for a neat one with low kms, over $50K for a minter. They did retail for over $200K when new so that means two things - tidy ones are still expensive; and the rest of them are a very risky proposition. The self levelling EDC shocks will cost four figures from BMW, multiple oxygen / lambda sensors at several hundred bucks a pop, etc.

Make sure you have a BMW specialist do a thorough inspection on the car you're serious about, before stumping up the cash.

couldn't have put it any better myself. :) very well summed up. and all good advice.

and yes they are lovely cars but for the love of god pay the extra $10K-$20K and get a very, very nice one or expect to spend up big to keep the thing in serviceable condition. if you want a big luxo barge with lots of road presence they are hard to beat. I still love them.

wow thanks for all the help guys VERY much appreciated :laugh:

ive thought over and over about it, did heaps of research /reading on them and asked a few local mechanics who specialise in euro cars etc

ive decided to stick with jap cars while i'm still an apprentice mainly for the reliability issue. but will definately look into these again in a couple of years time hopefully when ive taken over my old man's business.

currently looking into r34 gtrs and v35 350gt with the premium package but we'll see how it goes...

again, thanks for the help :)

couldn't have put it any better myself. :unsure: very well summed up. and all good advice.

Cheers Richard, awesome to hear that particularly coming from you :)

wow thanks for all the help guys VERY much appreciated :laugh:

ive thought over and over about it, did heaps of research /reading on them and asked a few local mechanics who specialise in euro cars etc

ive decided to stick with jap cars while i'm still an apprentice mainly for the reliability issue. but will definately look into these again in a couple of years time hopefully when ive taken over my old man's business.

currently looking into r34 gtrs and v35 350gt with the premium package but we'll see how it goes...

again, thanks for the help :)

Yeah probably a wiser move mate although with a BNR34 you'd probably still want money kept aside for 'unplanned' repairs and regular maintenance?

Although I own a GTR and love Nissans I still go crazy for Bimmers and have myself considered getting an 8 before. You could consider an E36 M3? Upsides are lower electronic and mechanical complexity, (aside from the engine); it's proper fast (3.0L 0-100 6.0 sec, 3.2L 0-100 5.5 sec... all non-CSi 8 series would struggle to top 7.0 secs) more examples to choose from and a proper manual gearbox (5 speed for 1994-1996 3.0 210kW, 6 speed for 1996-1999 3.2 236kW) [avoid the SMG!], glorious sound and still a comfy, practical and stylish car that has street cred. Downsides are, again, being over 10 years old it's getting harder to find a neat one; well-known VANOS issues and the engine does neet regular fettling to stay in tune. It's also not as rare as the Eight and won't stand out as much (partly thanks to the endless dodgied-up 318iSs around). The E46 M3 might be an option for you?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...