Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I have a S2 RS4S. We purchased it about six moths ago. It has always bugged me that the brake lights in the tailgate dont come on, however the tail lights do. I just spent a couple of hours investigating this problem and it seems their is a duel filiment globe in the tailgate (21/5W) however whoever complied the car has modifyed the wiring so there is only tail light power going to the globe. I traced the wiring loom back to the main plug in the body of the car but cannot figure out where the brake light power has been cut. If anyone can shed some light on this issue and some advice on how to reconnect my brake lights it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316215-brake-lights-in-tailgate-on-s2/
Share on other sites

did they change the plug as well? how many wire it got?

how about the brake light on the top of tailgate? if that one is working, you can connect the side brake light to the top one, it will work.

that happened to my car as well until I bought another set of taillights which comes with the original wire from japan.

I don't know why the compliance workshop needs to do that, anyone know?

did they change the plug as well? how many wire it got?

how about the brake light on the top of tailgate? if that one is working, you can connect the side brake light to the top one, it will work.

that happened to my car as well until I bought another set of taillights which comes with the original wire from japan.

I don't know why the compliance workshop needs to do that, anyone know?

The brake light in the spoiler (top of the tailgate) works and as a last resort i may have to tap into it (however the wiring may not cope with the extra current draw). Their is only two wires in the plug at the moment, one tail light power and earth but the plug can take three wires the third being brake light. the brake light power wire is missing altogether. Did your new lights plug in and work or did you have to wire them in. Replacing the plug wont help me as i have no brake light power source in the bottom of the tailgate.

Thanks for the reply.

I am not sure of the exact rules, but importers used to do the same for r32 gtr (ie only 1 brake light on each side lights up) I assume it is an ADR requirement.

No doubt they just cut the wires or changed the globe, it would have been the cheapest and easiest option.

I have no idea what ADRs have agains double brake lights???? And I wonder if the advent of LED lights have caused a rule change

I am not sure of the exact rules, but importers used to do the same for r32 gtr (ie only 1 brake light on each side lights up) I assume it is an ADR requirement.

No doubt they just cut the wires or changed the globe, it would have been the cheapest and easiest option.

I have no idea what ADRs have agains double brake lights???? And I wonder if the advent of LED lights have caused a rule change

The globe is a duel filiment ie one for Brake and one lower wattage for taillights. I agree they would have cut a wire but the trouble being i cant find where they cut it. It was cut pre tailgate loom. the plug may have been replaced or a wire taken out of the terminal.

find out the easiest/quickest access point to the wiring harness and look for a cut wire. i doubt if a compliancer would waste his/her time doing it properly. just a quick snip job.

I will have a look at mine on the weekend as I too now want dual brake lights!

here's a pic of the s2 lights i imported from japan. all boxed and wrapped when i got them.

so doubt very much compliance would touch em. maybe done for some reason back in japan?

there's no + wire in the globe socket or loom socket for brake.

i'll check my car tmoz, see if there same or different.

post-38314-1271066813_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1271066824_thumb.jpg

The brake light in the spoiler (top of the tailgate) works and as a last resort i may have to tap into it (however the wiring may not cope with the extra current draw). Their is only two wires in the plug at the moment, one tail light power and earth but the plug can take three wires the third being brake light. the brake light power wire is missing altogether. Did your new lights plug in and work or did you have to wire them in. Replacing the plug wont help me as i have no brake light power source in the bottom of the tailgate.

Thanks for the reply.

Hi I have a 2001 S2 Stagea RS4S and I just had a look at the wiring behind the tailgate brake / parker lights and it looks to me like the brake lights has never worked, mine only has a Earth and the Parkers power wire connected, there is a third connection but it has never had a wire crimped in the lug, unless the import completely replace my wiring loom it's never worked

Phill

I am gonna suggest its a jap thing. My Pulsar has the same setup with lights inside the tailgate not actually being operable. The JDM version of this model have JUST tailights in the tailgate, but there is a quite widely known mod to get them working as tail & brake lights by using another feed for the tailights, and dragging a brake light feed from the tailgate spoiler light. AFAIK a brake light doesnt use that much current draw, and its not on for that long anyway, so I would take the feed from the high level brake light. You could always fuse it if you are too paranoid...

now this is just gonna bug us who only have the outer lights working ;)

it's easy enough to run a wire around to the top led brake light i reckon,

except that plastic trim seems pretty damn hard to get off.....got good clips.

side note.

I had the same brake light experience with my old vc commodore, bought a different socket

with the extra brake light contact, ran the extra wires to the existing setup and all good, never

blew a fuse. I also had 20 led brake light mounted on the parcel shelf.

From memory my old series 1 r31 skyline was the same, it had series 2 round lights i got of a mate

and went through the same process.

p.s.quick edit....both the r31 & vc also towed a trailer with supporting brake/parker, indicator, number plate lights.

recap never blown a fuse.

Edited by Stagea_Neo

In my experience most light circuits can take the load: in a few of my previous cars I ran all the wiring for my jet ski trailer off the drivers side tail light: never blew a fuse either...

  • 2 weeks later...

Mine work now :P

Here's some pic's of where i fed the wire through.

Basically I spliced and soldered into the existing loom at the top brake light.

Fed power wire through with flexible aluminium wire, thinner/softer than a coat-hanger.

The brake light socket in the tailgate already had a spare terminal in it, had to push a little locking tab in so i could pull it out

just crimped my wire on to it, bent the tab back into place and wedged it back into the socket.

Trim was fairly easy to remove, plastic and metal clips behind it, be firm but gentle.

post-38314-1272269762_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269771_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269777_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269789_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269802_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269807_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269814_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269821_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...