Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs: R32 Gtr 380awkw


Recommended Posts

Due to the need to buy a house, for sale is my R32 GTR.

Photo and more details will be uploaded at a later stage.

Specs as follows:

Fully Rebuilt Engine (less than 5000kms ago)

RB26DETT

Autronic SM4

Garrett GT2560R 300HP Ball Bearing Turbochargers

750cc Injectors

Tomei Pon Cams type B 260 degree

Cam Gears

HKS Valve springs

Tomei Oil Restrictor

HKS Sump Baffle

MAP Sensors

Cometic MLS head gasket

Machined and ported head

N1 Water Pump

N1 Oil Pump

Wiseco Forged Pistons

Eagle Con Rods

ARP Heat Stud Kit

ARP Main Stud Kit

Ogura Racing Clutch Twin Plate

Bosch 044 Fuel Pump

Sard Fuel Reg

Splitfire Coils

Intercooler piping kit

Vacuum pump to assist braking

Oil Catch Can

19" Konig Afterburner Rims

Launch Control, antilag and high/low boost settings.

12' Sub w/amp and good speakers w/tweeters in the front doors

Remote central locking, 3 point immobilizer, auto window wind up, battery backup alarm, tilt sensor and window smash sensor.

Turbo timer.

Car makes around 300-320kw @ 15psi and 380kw at 26-27psi.

What needs doing:

The car's paint is only in fair condition, with the clear starting to come off the rear spoiler and the bonet has a sunspot starting to appear.

There is currently an exhaust leak at the turbo manifold so the car is LOUD, and sounds very rough. This has been quoted at $1500 to fix (due to the need to remove both turbos to fix it).

Gearbox has slightly crunchy 2nd gear.

A new engineering certificate MAY be required for registration.

Extras:

I also have a genuine GTR front bar ready to paint to go on the car, N1 sideskirts, and N1 Bar vents. These are included in the price however are negotiable.

There is also a set of 16inch rims with bridgestones on them for track work. (Slightly stickier than the Konigs)

Everything is included in the price. Price is negtiable.

$26000ono

Pete - 0422801831

*Please note - since photo, AFM's have been replaced with MAP sensors. Oil catch can is on top of engine.

post-25716-1270976180_thumb.jpg

post-25716-1270976187_thumb.jpg

post-25716-1270976195_thumb.jpg

post-25716-1270976202_thumb.jpg

Edited by noakespg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

PRICE DROP:

$20,000 as is or $22,000 with the exhaust fixed. Blue slip may be able to be arranged also. This is a bargain, engine has been built with the utmost care using the highest quality parts. Turbos are brand new GCG items. Car comes onto boost at around 3000 and holds all the way to redline. Over 30k worth of receipts.

Please make an offer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PRICE DROP:

$20,000 as is or $22,000 with the exhaust fixed. Blue slip may be able to be arranged also. This is a bargain, engine has been built with the utmost care using the highest quality parts. Turbos are brand new GCG items. Car comes onto boost at around 3000 and holds all the way to redline. Over 30k worth of receipts.

Please make an offer.

hi mate,

What year model is it and how many Km's does it have?

Thanks

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi!

Sorry for the late reply.

Its a 1989 model, it has 110000ish on the clock but as with any imported skyline, I wouldn't treat this as gospel. Especially as the speedo is a MINES 320 km/h one. (i.e. has been replaced)

Still for sale.

Price is negotiable (although not much).

Please don't make any 'offers' without seeing the car and coming for a drive.

Regards

Pete

Edited by noakespg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thank you for the links. I’m going to go with the 6pin plug you used. next step is rust treating re painting dash support bar and steering column then the 6pin cradle plug when it arrives in the mail.
    • I don't how much the car makes a difference or whether it is just a question of gearbox and clutch. On mine it's fine. Pull type Nismo coppermix twin (standard, not competition) on the 5 speed in my Stagea. OEM slave cylinder. Bite point is a few cm off the very bottom of the pedal. Clutch pedal all the way down to put in gear, and when heading off at the lights, there's a tiny bit of nothing and then it starts biting. And fully engaged before the pedal is all the way released. There's a bit of play at the top where the pedal does nothing anymore. Are you in Australia @ck_chino? If you are set on using a Nismo slave cylinder I have one new-in-box at home. Ordered it together with the clutch but didn't get it fitted. We can work something out if you want it
    • I am using a pull nismo coppermix twin in an r34 getrag box, had both the standard slave and  then the nismo one. Adjusted pedal to get bite point how I wanted , it is on the higher side, but would fully disengage past half way down.  I also read that the nismo slave won't work but I had no issues with the stroke, might become one later as clutch wears but 2+ years of happy motoring so far.  Take the above as one input only, specially as my setup is a bit unique in that I am using an S15 clutch master , cefiro clutch pedal, custom braided clutch line. Lots of variables at play. 
    • Oh for sure, I'm just recounting my thoughts 😎 I'm not what you've got there to fuzt with.... likely my first idea was on the money -- rebuild or replace connectors. You can get a lot of connector stuff here  -> https://www.rapidcables.com.au/ Didn't look in the boot of mine, because I replaced these when I renewed the pump (plastic of connectors had gone brittle) edit: what I used... https://www.efihardware.com/products/2120/Deutsch-DTM-Connector-Kit-6-Pin ...cheaper... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364900039138
    • In no way was i suggesting it’s your fault mate. The trailer cable has a plug that I removed. I will have a closer look, but I did remove the trailer wiring cable with the tow ball as I don’t need it on my silo. i have replaced the fuel pump already there’s no need to remove the cradle again I can see the wire colours from it in.
×
×
  • Create New...