Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That CES stuff looks pretty nice! Although they have TERRIBLE customer service. Everytime I contacted them for pricing and delivery eta etc they couldnt tell me or the person who knew wasnt there and they never ever called back! Nor did they reply to emails!

But anyway I had the HKS dumps with -5s and with my ultra high-flowing exhaust, i had serious boost creep. Creep from 18 to 22+, it was uncontrollable.

I then went to R34 Stainless factory dumps and the problem was ALL GONE.

I say bolt on a pair of 33 or 34 factory dumps, and get a nice front pipe. Just as long as the inlets to the front pipe are the same size as the outlet of the dumps (no need to get any bigger) youll be fine.

Oh and dont forget adjustable cam gears for awesome increases in response :D

Im putting together a front set to match the 3.5" 5Zigen cat-back on my track rb26

* twin equal length tubular manifold

* twin hks split dump pipes

* 2.5" dual into 3.5" single front pipe

post-18854-1271206992_thumb.jpg

post-18854-1271207017_thumb.jpg

post-18854-1271207040_thumb.jpg

highflowed turbo's.

eventually doing a big engine build. got 90% of parts now :D

But anyway I had the HKS dumps with -5s and with my ultra high-flowing exhaust, i had serious boost creep. Creep from 18 to 22+, it was uncontrollable.

I then went to R34 Stainless factory dumps and the problem was ALL GONE.

So what this says to me is the stock bumps choke an exhaust....

When we're talking ceramic coating of all the hot bits, what sort of gains are we talking 5 , 10 hp ?

naa man its more complicated than that.. stock exhaust parts are generally ok but stainless heats up your engien bay like a mofo

and a lot of GTR's just have open pods in their engine bay, so all that heat in the bay is making your air coming in hot

its basically driving in winter vs driving in summer

I was trying to locate a pair of R34GTR dumpies for my -5's but had no luck. Was about to go the Tomei route then got lucky and bought the CES race pipe system second hand for less than the price of tomei's! (and it was already ceramic coating)!

But for cost effective and good enough response R34GTR dumps are meant to be good and very cheap to buy (but they sell very quickly:)

So NO retuning was done at all? Got graphs? Power was identical was it? Personally I find this very hard to believe, im sure im not alone...

Nothing was changed, just the dumps.

No graphs of the before, i already knew what power it was making and it was identical to the after.

I know the car very well and i could feel there was no difference in boost ramp up/response.

Are you hard of reading trying to deliverately turn this into the same as the last thread where you were wrong and then tried to backpedal out of your own statements?

I told you the power output was identical.

i already knew what power it was making and it was identical to the after.

And i then said:

i could feel there was no difference in boost ramp up/response.

What i was referring to was boost response on the street, no change.

@ 3,300rpm the boost gauge did the same show it always does. Identical before/after the dump swap.

Peak boost/power (via dyno) was also the same.

Im not backpedalling, just questioning the sh1t you post as fact when its not always the case...youre previous statement about air temps not being as important as fuel/ignition was wrong, get over it.

I would put my house on the fact that your experience with dump pipes is not the norm and that 99% of the time people will make gains from aftermarket dump pipes...maybe you scored some 'freak' dump pipes.

Youre as good as alleging the manufacturers of a/m dumps are lying when they back to back test their product and show gains? Is that what youre suggesting, indirectly?

You did. Still obviously unable to accept you were wrong either. This is even after others pulled you up on it... ;) meh.

There are 3 cars i know (after asking around) including my own running R33/R32 dumps, 330rwkw/-9s etc etc. FACT.

These setups are the same as other setups WITH bigger dumps (all from the same workshop, same build specs etc). FACT

There are another 5-10 cars running upto 400rwkw with R34 items, and dozens with aftermarket ones - again identical. FACT

Now fair enough there is some minor variance, every motor is not 100% identical, however when the results are all similar enough that there is no signifigant difference...

Good enough proof for me, and i am one not easily convinced.

Hell there could even be more now as I've seen a fair few people jumping on factory dump pipes when they come up in the For Sale area.

Notice the word FACT there? It is the case. It is as real as the very keyboard you type with.

I'll tell you what i'll do. On Friday I promise i will try to get a part number off Nissan for these 'freak' OEM dumps when I'm down there.

I mean they must exist if there are countless results to back them in your eyes.

What i can't promise though, is my very resourceful parts contact, looking at me with a straight face...

So in your absolutely ridiculously over exaggerated examples above, these 'DOZENS' of cars are running identical boost, ignition maps, cam timing, fuel mixtures...cmon man, get your hand off it ffs...

No 2 cars are the same, agreed, the basic principles remain the same regardless...more air/fuel in, more exhaust out as quickly as possible...

I would like to see a comparison of exhaust temps after repeated thrashing....youre one off dyno reading is fine as long as thats all youre doing in the real world I guess, an occassional 4th gear pull?

When I looked at Xforce they had a all in one kit that was turbo back, that would include the dump and front, but I'm not sure in this case they are different physical pipes?

Xforce... kthnxbai

That CES stuff looks pretty nice! Although they have TERRIBLE customer service. Everytime I contacted them for pricing and delivery eta etc they couldnt tell me or the person who knew wasnt there and they never ever called back! Nor did they reply to emails!

But anyway I had the HKS dumps with -5s and with my ultra high-flowing exhaust, i had serious boost creep. Creep from 18 to 22+, it was uncontrollable.

I then went to R34 Stainless factory dumps and the problem was ALL GONE.

I say bolt on a pair of 33 or 34 factory dumps, and get a nice front pipe. Just as long as the inlets to the front pipe are the same size as the outlet of the dumps (no need to get any bigger) youll be fine.

Oh and dont forget adjustable cam gears for awesome increases in response ;)

sweet, cheers for the advice ! ;)

So in your absolutely ridiculously over exaggerated examples above, these 'DOZENS' of cars are running identical boost, ignition maps, cam timing, fuel mixtures...cmon man, get your hand off it ffs...

No 2 cars are the same, agreed, the basic principles remain the same regardless...more air/fuel in, more exhaust out as quickly as possible...

I would like to see a comparison of exhaust temps after repeated thrashing....youre one off dyno reading is fine as long as thats all youre doing in the real world I guess, an occassional 4th gear pull?

wtf do exhaust temps have to do with anything?

All X-force stuff is, is the same china crap you buy from ebay but with a bigger price tag and a X-force badge welded to it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...