Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a set of Xforce on my GTR currently making 330rwkw and hope to be pusing 400-450kw through soon.

I wouldn't spend money on dumps given what i've got unless you could see a serious improvement.

Cheers,

Mitch.

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

cheers mate ! looks like a nice piece of kit, any insight on weather an aftermarket ex mani is worth it ? again purely for MAX RESPONSE, i know the stock item is said to be adequate for fairly high power levels, but im chasing every bit of response i can

cf drive shaft

lightened flywheel

aluminium pulleys

anything i can think of to get nice early spool so even if mani/dumps dont get more KW its not an issue

Sorry skipped most of the drivel so hopefully not repeating anything already said. i got the best RESPONSE improvement with CES dumps and front pipe (substitute any similar product) PLUS port matching the turbo to manifold flange. I estimate about a 500rpm better response with these mods- power probably still the same I think in a GTR response is valuable

Currently have 540hp atw at 17psi (700cc injectors maxing out) with custom turbos hitting 12psi from about 2800 and max boost in before 4000rpm. Still kicks the rear out when coming onto max boost in second gear.

Edited by doo doo
Sorry skipped most of the drivel so hopefully not repeating anything already said. i got the best RESPONSE improvement with CES dumps and front pipe (substitute any similar product) PLUS port matching the turbo to manifold flange. I estimate about a 500rpm better response with these mods- power probably still the same I think in a GTR response is valuable

Currently have 540hp atw at 17psi (700cc injectors maxing out) with custom turbos hitting 12psi from about 2800 and max boost in before 4000rpm. Still kicks the rear out when coming onto max boost in second gear.

id like to see proof of that, ive never seen a gtr make that boost without an artificial ramp rate especially @ 540hpatw

Sorry skipped most of the drivel so hopefully not repeating anything already said. i got the best RESPONSE improvement with CES dumps and front pipe (substitute any similar product) PLUS port matching the turbo to manifold flange. I estimate about a 500rpm better response with these mods- power probably still the same I think in a GTR response is valuable

Currently have 540hp atw at 17psi (700cc injectors maxing out) with custom turbos hitting 12psi from about 2800 and max boost in before 4000rpm. Still kicks the rear out when coming onto max boost in second gear.

CES sound pretty good overall, wat turbo/s you running ? 540hp at 17 psi and full bost at 4krpm is pretty nice haha

Im expecting an increase in HP and Nm at the rear wheel from my forthcoming upgrade over stock items:

tuned length twin manifolds, HKS split dump pumps, dual 2.5" into 3.5" front pipe to mate into my cat-back system

running fresh hiflowed steel wheel turbos, 550cc inj, z32 afm, gtr intake & walbro 305lph external fuel pumps, power-fc

eventually going to do a rebuild, and I expect the exhaust to flow over 500hp:

hks oil pump, n1 water pump, 87mm hks pistons, attkd rods, acl race bearings, arp studs, greddy cams & adjustable gears, hks cam springs

cometic 87 x1.2mm full gasket kit, greddy timing belt kit, 30-row oil cooler, 52mm dual core radiator, air intake kit

throw in the electronics, roll cage, wilwood brake setup & semislicks - she should be a decent track car !

Hey guys ... im in the same confusion, my r34 gtt is running a hks gt-rs turbo and reads about 12-13 psi boost on stock gauge. My exhust is a full kakimotor 3 or 3.5 inch but STOCK DUMP that is missing two bolts as well haha :S... is this ristricting my exhust flow, so not getting full potential of the exhust?

this is realy important for me becouse my mates selling his dump pipe of his fujitsubo full exhust i was going to buy it today in couple of hours, so if i could get a quick reply would appericiate it guys.

BTW is it hard to install? howmuch would it cost if mechanic does it??

I dunno what these guys would say but im pretty sure the GTT or equivalent gtst parts arent up to the same standard as the GTR ones, my suggestion would be definately to upgrade it :(

id like to see proof of that, ive never seen a gtr make that boost without an artificial ramp rate especially @ 540hpatw

Sure if you're around Bris I'll take you for a spin sometime. I understand the ramp rate issue- the figures come from road testing not dyno. I don't have a dyno sheet unfortunately but that can be organised, I'll make sure the boost vs rpm is displayed. I paid a bit more attention to it today and found that (I have a small boost leak issue under the inlet manifold atm) in 3rd gear with time to load (ie.uphill) I have 9psi at 2800rpm and 13psi at 3100rpm. The real crossover power (17-18psi) occurs at about 3800rpm. In 2nd gear it ramps a bit later (naturally) but still have full boost by 4000rpm (if I get off the throttle before it hits 4000rpm i can check the peak boost on the boost controller) Very driveable out of corners...... It should also be noted that the cams, cam gears boost controller gain and tuning (Motec M600) are all working to bring the boost on early.

HOWEVER, the difference with the dumps was noticed changing from stock dumps and front pipe to CES dumps and front pipe, still with stock turbos plus a better flowing cat.

Edited by doo doo
CES sound pretty good overall, wat turbo/s you running ? 540hp at 17 psi and full bost at 4krpm is pretty nice haha

they're friggin expensive esp with the ceramic coating (which is starting to chip off....)

Turbos are custom jobbies that i'm not told the specs for- they do run a factory comp cover machined for a larger wheel and a .64 exh. The only issue is they will surge slightly at low pressure ratio which is bad for an afm setup, I had 440hp atw with the power FC, which i have since changed over to motec for the current 540 atw. At the time I bought them they were 1300 each new but that was a very good deal, i'd estmate 1500 ea at the mo.

post-48345-1271494867_thumb.jpg

Sure if you're around Bris I'll take you for a spin sometime. I understand the ramp rate issue- the figures come from road testing not dyno. I don't have a dyno sheet unfortunately but that can be organised, I'll make sure the boost vs rpm is displayed. I paid a bit more attention to it today and found that (I have a small boost leak issue under the inlet manifold atm) in 3rd gear with time to load (ie.uphill) I have 9psi at 2800rpm and 13psi at 3100rpm. The real crossover power (17-18psi) occurs at about 3800rpm. In 2nd gear it ramps a bit later (naturally) but still have full boost by 4000rpm (if I get off the throttle before it hits 4000rpm i can check the peak boost on the boost controller) Very driveable out of corners...... It should also be noted that the cams, cam gears boost controller gain and tuning (Motec M600) are all working to bring the boost on early.

HOWEVER, the difference with the dumps was noticed changing from stock dumps and front pipe to CES dumps and front pipe, still with stock turbos plus a better flowing cat.

That sounds much better and is around the norm under modest ramping, makes much more sense.

The hill scenario you describe represents a far higher "ramp" and it is definitely possible to see the boost your referencing to under such conditions, i use a "control" ramp to compare like to like setups which is the same as a flat road rolling on in fourth from 1500rpm which is less than the hill type scenario but almost identical to the on road conditions. We simulate the hill type ramps during tuning also but they give unrealistic boost response times.

Please dont think im criticising your setup as it sounds awesome, hence my reference to "artificial ramp" in my first post, everyone checks the boost response different and is why it is only useful to use the same dyno and tuner for back to back testing, or a set routine or road to road test the changes..

When I went to -5's I had HKS dumps and Just Jap's JJR stainless front pipe installed. JJR pipe sizes are twin 60mm inlet, 76mm exit and best of all it was only 300 bucks. Works perfectly on my car no boost issues always rock solid 19psi. There didnt seem to be any lag or flow issues as the car makes more power everywhere when comparing the stock turbos/dump/front pipe dyno run to the -5 setup with the bigger front exhaust and dumps installed. Car runs a decent speed (117mph) at the 1/4 mile that supports the dyno figures and suggests theres no lack of top end power (400hp at all fours).

In 4th gear the boost ramp rate is almost identical from the completely stock turbo, dump and front pipe, to the -5's, HKS dumps, JJR front pipe. So the way I see it, the -5's should be laggy by themselves, and if the front exhaust was inefficient, then itwould be laggier still. I guess the rest of the setup with cam gears, tune etc brings the reponse back close to standard GTR levels. So for some reason the HKS dumps seem to work on my car. Standard dumps may have worked the same, who knows, but while I had the turbos changed I wasnt going to wait to find out they were a restriction, and then have to change them later.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...