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R33 GTST Currently run 430HP chinese turbo running about 14PSI have run up to 18PSI. Currently have shim plate between standard BOV, was thinking of removing shim to stop flutter. Just after some knowlegable facts not some half wit opinions. Cheers

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Standard BOV's are designed to run standard boost....if you up the boost you need to up the other components aswell or eventually sumthins gonna fail. I recommend an aftermarket BOV with a better quality seal and stronger spring to avoid leakage. maybe an adjustable one to get rid of your flutter problem.

^ Proof please?

It's factually incorrect. Aftermarket BOV's are not required and are a waste of money.

Some fail, yes. Given they are 15 years old... But for the most part a factory BOV is fine for the application.

Hell i ran a single GTR BOV, 370rwkw/24psi - not a problem. Fact.

trying to make mine look stock and not go for hype, wasn't too sure on factory bov leaking that's all. Only thing that looks otherwise is pod and fmic which I plan to paint all pipework and cooler black. Sick of seeing try hard wannabee f**ked with skylines

R33 GTST Currently run 430HP chinese turbo running about 14PSI have run up to 18PSI. Currently have shim plate between standard BOV, was thinking of removing shim to stop flutter. Just after some knowlegable facts not some half wit opinions. Cheers

so long as the vac line stays on, as much boost as your turbo can produce :happy:

r31nismoid - the only proof i can share to back up my first post is that a BOV springs strength is designed in relation to the amount of manifold vacuum applied vs the boost pressure on the other side. Therefore extra boost and same manifold vacuum = open sooner. I understand your point you would make that under boost the pressure is applied to both sides so there is no problem here and your right you wouldnt notice a difference but really your BOV would be opening a touch sooner when the boost is raised. Sorry cant reference any evidence for you to look at about it just my understanding of the system.

A working stock BOVs are fine. regardless of how much boost your run. Boost pressure forces the piston to shut. So less likely to leak at high boost.

Problem is the BOV must be plumbed back after the AFM for stock setups, which factory rubber hose is a big restrictor and problem for high powered applications.

Or It will suck in unmeasured air causing erratically idle and engine "power off" on deceleration.

So you don't have to worry about leaking as long as you retain stock vacumm setups.

Or aftermarket atmospheric BOVs must be fitted before the AFM, means AFM needs to be shifted in between the cooler piping.

yeah exactly . on stock car it has 7 psi on one side trying to push it open and 7 psi + the spring pressure on the other side pushing it shut . it doesnt matter what numberrs you put in itll still be shut

im talking about when the throttle butterfly is closed guys. this is why people have adjustible BOV's on cars as you can change the rate of compressor surge. of course it makes no diff when equal pressure is applied under accell. If the spring is too tight it wont open, ya get flutter and a gut full of unburnt fuel which equals backfire between shifts. Ya have it too loose n it can open while your idling which personally i dont like AKA standard BOV which is what mine was doing anyway. Probably due to an aged, weakened BOV spring. You have metered air passing through the maf sensor and not entering the engine at idle. I know its a plumback system n all but ill choose one that doesnt open at idle. let me know if you know how the metered air is compensated for in the fuel map when this happens and ill stand corrected but i cant see how it is done. I have checked the wiring diagrams and cant see how it is metered accurately...

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