Jump to content
SAU Community

Exhaust Or Hfc?

Walf
 Share

Recommended Posts

Walf Enthusiast

Walf

Posted
Posted

So its time for me to spend some more money on the car, and reading up it seems majority of the restrictions on the V35 are in the cats.. Im looking for a deeper, slightly louder, and clearer note. Engine note is more important than all out power. So any suggestions for or against exhaust or high flow cats? experiences? Also, will most 350z exhaust systems fit the V35? (I know some full 350 systems can come with an extension for the v35..)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/
Share on other sites
Kam-80 Enthusiast

Kam-80

Posted
Posted

HFCs will make your car sound raspier...but you'll get around 5-7rwkw peak gain, noticeable difference. I found the raspiness also translates into a little more cabin noise at cruising RPM...not Honda-style drone, but you can definately hear it. Unfortunately it's all pretty subjective and your personal taste will dictate what's good and not so good. You're definately right about cats being the most restrictive component and probably best bang-for-buck mod on the exhaust side. Extractors didn't give heaps for the time/money spent and Y-back exhaust didn't give too much either. For the price and installation cost, I would not bother with extractors unless you are planning on going high RPM NA build (or supercharger).

My experiences...

Fujitsubo Y-back adds nice deep burble but not much louder than OEM except on WOT.

Fujitsubo Y-back + Tomei extractors slight increase in dB, adds a bit more burble at idle and through the rev-range.

Fujitsubo Y-back + Tomei extractors + X-Force HFC and custom Y-pipe big increase in raspiness and noise.

My friend has a VQHR 350Z and I was able to drive it around for a week or so...with just an HKS Y-back (Titanium) it sounded almost like my car with full system, but higher pitched.

Hope that helps...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/#findComment-5176516
Share on other sites
scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted

If you're after modifying the note, I'd say do the catback. It is the primary job of the mufflers to modify the exhaust noise, after all.

HFC tend to lead to raspiness but since few people do the cats and leave the exhaust stock it's very difficult to knowledgably say what it'd do if the rest of the pipework is factory. I found that, when I fitted HFCs, the pitch of the exhaust note went up. When I did the catback (which was first) the note at low RPM didn't change much, but in the upper half of the rev range the tone got more gravelly and aggressive.

In terms of sound only, I much preferred having just stock headers/stock cats/HiTech catback. But then, I don't like rasp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/#findComment-5176664
Share on other sites
V35_Paul Veteran

V35_Paul

Posted
Posted
thanks guys. not looking at getting extractors.. apparently you have to lift the engine out slightly to install them? :S

Just have to keep an eye out for an exhaust now :bunny:

My engine wasn't lifted out. But it did take a long time :ermm:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/#findComment-5183835
Share on other sites
scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted
thanks guys. not looking at getting extractors.. apparently you have to lift the engine out slightly to install them? :S

It's not 100% necessary, but it does make the installer's job easier. It is a bitch of a job to get to the extractors, especially if your installer has never done a FM platform car before.

FYI if you do decide to get extractors, make sure you find out if they're for LHD or RHD cars. Since the US got the Z and V a lot of parts out there are for LHD vehicles, and so they touch the steering column on a RHD car.

Don't assume that just because you're buying it locally that it'll be RHD. I got my set from a local retailer, and we had to bash one of the pipes a little to get it to stop touching. It only needs to be moved a little bit, but its still a PITA and not technically what you're paying for.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/#findComment-5188099
Share on other sites
scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted
Yeah mine touches the steering colum ever so slightly when i turn left sometimes.

I "fixed" mine by pushing one of the pipes with an extender bar, and using a mallet to encourage it to give the steering column more clearance.

anyone had any experiences wit hitech mufflers?

Had one for years. Quite liked it. At the time it was $600+ cheaper than a Fujitsubo Legalis-R (and there was no second hand market back in my day). It's basically OEM quiet up to 3000RPM, and then picks up an angry metallic note in the upper rev range. At the same time its not scarily loud, so a cop wouldn't look twice. Basically, that noise is how Nissan should have sold the car from the factory.

The only problem with it is that it drones between 1900-2200RPM (which is 55-65km/hr in 6th gear, so not fantastic for around town). In absolute terms the drone isn't that bad (compared to JDM exhausts on Silvias, Skylines, Hondas, etc), but since the rest of the car is so refined it really sticks out. However, since the V35 is longer than the Z33 your pipes will also be longer. You may not get the drone, or get it in the same rev band, as a result. I haven't heard a HiTech on a V35 so I can't comment for sure.

Also, fit and finish isn't always fantastic. Mine was fine, but a mate had one tip sticking out more than the other.

The Legalis-R mirrors the HiTech's noise but with an even nicer note up top (I reckon). It also doesn't drone. If you can afford to get the Fuji over the HiTech I'd say it was worth it, but you wouldn't be too disappointed with the HiTech. Just drive the thing around town in 5th instead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/#findComment-5198557
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Milkmun
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • PranK
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By PranK · Posted

      Gotta admit, I love the 20b Cosmo.
    • joshuaho96
      Nismo Super Coppermix Twin and R33 GTR transmission replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • PLYNX
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Of the 90s ! !
    • PLYNX
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
×
×
  • Create New...