Jump to content
SAU Community

225/50/16 On Standard R33 Gtst Rims

queensalnd
 Share

Recommended Posts

queensalnd Contributor

queensalnd

Posted
Posted

Has anyone run 225/50/16's on standard R33 GTST rims. I think from memory they are only 6.5" wide, so in theory 225 maybe a bit wide. Just after some first hand reports for street, track, or drift cause the standard 205 are way too skinny. Just trying to keep stock look, I have a set of 18" Zivell speed rims that I run from time to time, but rather run standos. Thinking about Kumho KU36 as I reckon they are good bang for buck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316375-2255016-on-standard-r33-gtst-rims/
Share on other sites
The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Street slow=Fine

Skids=Fine

Any speed type driving=Fail

My car understeers like crazy if Im pushing with them on, and dont even think of boost, unless sideways smokey action and steering with your throttle or hand brake is what your after.

They are OK for day to day going to work and thats it.

My 2 cents

  • 2 weeks later...
Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted
Street slow=Fine

Skids=Fine

Any speed type driving=Fail

My car understeers like crazy if Im pushing with them on, and dont even think of boost, unless sideways smokey action and steering with your throttle or hand brake is what your after.

They are OK for day to day going to work and thats it.

My 2 cents

I agree with all of that besides understeer.. My current set are Re001 225's all round and it's quite taily. Maybe just the way I drive tho :cheers:

205's feel very direct but ultimate grip level isn't fantastic and they look ridiculous especially from behind. 225's look much better but there is a LOT of sidewall slop. I found running 40psi to be reasonable, anything less is horrible.

225's for day to day fine, put 40psi in them unless you drive like a grandma and if you actually want to have fun then strap your 18's on.

If I had to choose for day to day driving I would still run 225's because the 205's just look retarded on a sports car. And yes, standard fitment options are 205/55/R16 and 225/50/R16.

Yeedogga Experienced

Yeedogga

Posted
Posted

I'm running 225/50 on s15 rims- they look waaay better than 205s and I didnt notice any deficiency in handling.

That being said, even with the old cheap Kumho 205s, I had no problems with straight line traction unless I dropped the clutch on launch. They were even good for reasonable 1/4 mile times!

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

your contact patch for 205 vs 225 is actually the same area, so straight line traction should be the same. the difference is the 205's are long and thin and 225's are short and fat, relatively speaking. it's the wider cross-section that helps with cornering grip.

unfortunately 225s have too much sidewall flex so turn in feels very vague. also once you exceed the traction boundaries the tyre moves about and again feels very vague, there's not a "limit" as such that you can treat with finesse but an area where traction comes and goes. yuck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • SeanR32GtSt
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Desean Strickland
      Need help/advice with bearing taper clearance, eccentricity and arp studs.

      By Desean Strickland · Posted

      Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • soviet_merlin
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...