Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. I am new to this forum. I used to have a skyline so i know what that feels like hehe (a gtr!)

Now days i prefer something a little different. So what do you get when you half the engine size of a skyline and drop the "R" from the badging?

a 1.3L GT ;-)

Well here are some piks of mine in the shop getting fitted with a larger turbo, front mount, dump pipe, cold air intake, fuel managment syste, dyno run and a few other things. I only posted a few piks because i dont know if people will be interedted seeing as how its not a skyline.

Heat absorbent wrapping on the oil and air piping.

pik5.jpg

High flow TD04 turbo (wrx)

pik2.jpg

Slim/thick core intercooler

pik1.jpg

All put back together. Dam its fun to drive!!

pik4.jpg

Ok so let me know what you think. I have put alot of hard work and effort into this project. It gained about 70-80 kilowats in the upgrading process and runs 140 kilowats at the wheels at 15psi (capable of 21 psi but i dont want it to fast) I havnt taken it to the 1/4 mile but i have ran it against a few of my friends cars and it does a great job.

Edited by oh-so-swift
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316575-my-car-engine-tuning/
Share on other sites

I'm missing the part where you can get rid of it :yes:

Even the smallest increments make such a difference to performance in small cars. Even 10kw difference in a small hatchback like this is noticeable.

very true, 10 kilowat increase is very noticable in a light hatch back, so you can imagine a 75kilowat increase would be alot of fun. hehe

definatly a car that holds is place on the road and also rare. i always get people asking me "what is it"

lol

even when i had the skyline, i always wanted one of these, i just found them very fasinating.

kudos on the build mate,

brings me back to when i built a EFI turbocharged suzuki mightyboy.... light as and it had some decent power!

this looks impressive, wouldnt mind seeing more pics if u do have them... it doesnt matter its not a skyline so long as its in the right thread.

where abouts are u?

Great,

I had one too, it was running Ebay manifold, my mate old sr20 turbo, evo VI front mount all done in my back yard and the bloody thing was flying though it was lag as fk lol, boost wont' kicks in until 4000rpm.

I kept up with an Evo VII with just 6psi untuned hahaha, 140kw sounds about right with that set up.

Oh i think you've got a rare Tom's adjustable spoiler.

Try Auststarletclub yet?

the photo in the display pik is not my starlet, the one in the post is.

The t25 is not the best choice for the starlet though (unless your running an engine conversion or something similar), its a little to big, if you had the td04 you would have had alot more fun in it hehe.

Its pretty quick, I also have a R32 GTR, i want to race against it! would be interesting.

(There is a very unhappy ferrari owner driving around heheheh!)

the photo in the display pik is not my starlet, the one in the post is.

The t25 is not the best choice for the starlet though (unless your running an engine conversion or something similar), its a little to big, if you had the td04 you would have had alot more fun in it hehe.

Its pretty quick, I also have a R32 GTR, i want to race against it! would be interesting.

(There is a very unhappy ferrari owner driving around heheheh!)

Nah, the T25 suits me just fine :D, it was a little project that i did for fun so i didnt care. Is your manifold a log manifold?

Nah, the T25 suits me just fine :D , it was a little project that i did for fun so i didnt care. Is your manifold a log manifold?

[/quot

my manifold has very short runners (to avoid lag) it works very well at about 3.5krpm. The power is minimal until then, but then it hits pretty hard. With the t25 i think the power doesnt hit hard until about 5.5krpm. Its just so easy to get more power out of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...