Help Please! No 1 Cylinder Low Compression And Turbo Failure
Announcements
-
Similar Content
-
-
Latest Posts
-
By Dose Pipe Sutututu 路 Posted
Haha that's wholesome as! Looks like we're raising a generation of female rev heads and classic shit box owners 馃ぃ -
Haha nice, my kids are the same two older boys say cars are boring while younger girls like them. My 1.5yo daughter watches D1GP on YouTube with me, holding a toy plate for steering wheel and making brmm brmm noises -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu 路 Posted
Took the car out to see if it still starts, sure does. Daughter wanted to for a spin too, she loves it when it doses, also cries when we come home and try to take her out of the baby seat 馃ゲ I actually put the seat in for her brother, but he absolutely hates the shitbox. Anyhow, so after looking at real boats, and transoms, bait tanks etc. and scupper valves attached to them, I came up with ideas to improve the catch can. The primary goal was to stop the interior smelling like vented catch can shit when the windows are down OR when the HVAC is not recirculated. My catch can has a sump drain/feed at the bottom, 2x cam cover inlets, 1x outlet back to the intake pipe and 1x vent at the top. The initial theory was at idle, and off boost there would be just enough suction from the intake pipe (pre turbo) to pull back any smelly shit from the catch can before it could escape out of the vent (which does have 1x layer of foam and a fine mesh screen on top). It kind of works, however on hot days, the motor is breathing more than the suction provided from the intake pipe (pre turbo) and there's a bit of vapours escaping (not a bit amount, but enough to piss me off). I could have just sealed off the vent, however it would mean each time I take it to the track or decide to drive it with a bit of enthusiasm, I would need to remove the seal. To address this, using scupper valve idea, I used a 3mm sheet of rubber and cut essentially a valve that requires a bit of pressure to crack open and vent. Took the shit box for a drive today, came back and parked the car. No heavy stench, great success 鈽猴笍 I still would swap for a F80 LCI or W204 2012+ C63 AMG, if anyone is keen 馃槄 -
-
By soviet_merlin 路 Posted
I'm with Kinkstaah on this one. Do it once, do it right. So much better for your mental health. The sneaky thing about the fuel pump wiring is that it will work perfectly fine for the longest time. Until that one moment when it decides to shit the bed. And it's not worth the paranoia from not trusting the car anymore. At least other mechanical issues announce themselves by developing some noise or other warning. If you have the funds, I'd suggest to go with a good kit like Frenchys and get the work done by a trustworthy shop. No regrets there. The only downside to the Frenchys kit on the Stagea/R32 GTR is that their fuel level sender is not on point. But looks like the R33 kit maintains the factory sender so should not be an issue. This is what the botched setup on my Stagea looked like before it stopped working. It had melted its way quite a distance down. Glad it didn't burn down the car. Some links I came across when I looked for solutions: Radium sells a DIY wiring kit that looks promising. I didn't buy it though, I let my workshop decide on wiring. https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/radium-diy-fuel-pump-hard-wiring-kit-17-0031 https://www.radiumauto.com/DIY-Fuel-Pump-Wiring-Kit-P368.aspx You can also get cheap replacements for the locking ring depending on how mangled it looks: https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/Nissan-17343-79900-Fuel-Tank-Outlet-Locking-Ring-for-Nissan-S14-S15-BNR32-R33-R34-AWC34 There are tools for unscrewing it as well so you don't have to abuse it with a screwdriver and mallet. The Frenchys one is expensive but I'm sure there are cheaper ones.
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now