Jump to content
SAU Community

Where Do I Find Pistonrings For Rb25det?

sirmiro

By sirmiro,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

sirmiro Contributor

sirmiro

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi.

I wonder where i can find relatively cheap pistonrings, bearings and gaskets.

I've searches ebay but you in here might know more (as you always do). :D

I've made a compressiontest with this result:

902833_8l1hzr.jpg

Is there enough to change the pistonrings, headgasket and get sure the valves fit tightly? :O

The plan is to get RB26-rods into the engine when it's open and change the bearings to get the bottom ready for all my future plans. Do i need something specific to do this? :(

Or do you have better suggestions what to do?

Which parts do I need that i haven't wrote?

Which sizes on bearings/pistonrings? (I don't know anything about the engine and rather don't want to wait for parts...) :)

Edit: The engine has run 97000km according to dashboard.

Med vänlig hälsning

Micke

Edited by sirmiro
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

pour a tiny bit of engine oil into each cylider and re measure the compression

if it evens out the rings need changing, if it stays the same then the head it at fault (or head gasket)

have a go at that and report back to us

SRX720 Rookie

SRX720

Posted
Posted
Is there enough to change the pistonrings, headgasket and get sure the valves fit tightly?

no it isn't enough, first you need to find out why you have low compression (doing what pipster11 has said is a good start) then work out what needs to be done from there. if the rings are worn you can;t just put new rings in.

you should talk to your mechanic or engine builder about what needs to be done.

unsure if RB25 and 26 rod lengths are the same, but this would probably be a good time to put them in.

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

the only way a head issue would allow that much of a compression drop is if it has dropped a valve, or a valve seat, and the noise the engine would be making would make that quite apparent

I would be tearing the whole engine down myself, because that much variation is a lot more than just worn rings. Could be broken rings (in which case the bore may be damaged) or even a ring land - quite common for an RB that has been leaned out.

Either way, not good news

32TAXI Experienced

32TAXI

Posted
Posted (edited)

Who done the test? Was it at operating temp with throttle wide open, all spark plugs removed and even cranks (6-7) on all cylinders.

I would double check readings and also oil cylinders to see if readings change.

If compression comes back up with oil in cylinders = posibly rings - If no change on readings = posibly ring lands, holed piston or headgasket blown between cylinders..

Edited by RED513
sirmiro Contributor

sirmiro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I shall redo the test with oil in when possible.

We did the test in the garage with a cold engine, all plugs out and even cranks.

We did 2 tests and they show the same. ;)

Do you think i shall disassemble the engine before ordering parts? This looks like it gets bigger for each time I think about it. ;)

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
I shall redo the test with oil in when possible.

We did the test in the garage with a cold engine, all plugs out and even cranks.

We did 2 tests and they show the same. :D

Do you think i shall disassemble the engine before ordering parts? This looks like it gets bigger for each time I think about it. :D

run the engine up to operating temp and then do it

nothing in the engine seals as well when its cold

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Do the compression test with the hot engine and try the oil trick.

If you do pull it down and find it needs a rebore and you want forged rods and pistons etc to make big power later it will cost thousands. Do the costings on parts and machining and then consider an RB30 block from RIPS:

http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • GTSBoy
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.
×
×
  • Create New...